1. Ice Climbing MITOC WS12 Anna de Regt
Adapted from previous MITOC lectures
J Mediatore, R Abbott, A Maznev, D Walker, D Custer, others

2. Ways into Ice Climbing
Mountaineering (Snow climbing)
Rock climbing

3. Ice::Rock (or plastic)
Two ice tools = “hands”
Two crampon’d boots = “feet”
But belaying is just the same!
If you can climb plastic at Metrorock,
you can climb ice with MITOC!

4. Ice Encounters in the Outdoors
On the way up a mountain:
As an end in itself:

5. Where does ice come from?
Formed from water
Formed from snow under pressure
Dima Shirokov on Fafnir
Cannon Cliff , NH
Olga Mirkina on Carbon
Glacier, Mt. Rainier

6. Nuances Influencing Ice Climb Difficulty
Water ice:
(avg Angle of Pitch)
6 : > 90 0
5 :
4 :
3 :
2 :
1 :
Easier
Conditions
Calm winds
Moderate temps
Plastic ice
Pick holes
Short, easy approach
Harder
Conditions
Strong winds
Cold temps (<10F)
Brittle ice
Rotten ice
Unclimbed route
Thin spots
Disconnected icecles
Loose snow
Snowfall
Long route
Long, strenuous
approach

7. Dress well and keep warm
Soft shells can be more comfortable and durable than hard shells (Gore-Tex/etc)
Hiking, climbing: “action suit”
Resting/belaying: big warm jacket, mittens, piece of foam to sit on
Extra gloves (climbing, belaying, hiking)
Eat, drink often!
Rest hands below heart, don’t over-grip (‘leashless’ tools are nice in this respect!)

8. Ice Climbing Gear
Adjustable leg loops for harness

9. Checklist for Day Ice Climb
Essential
Technical Gear
Helmet
Ice tools
Crampons
Rigid Boots
Harness, belay device
Avalanche forecast
Important General Winter Gear
Pack
Gaiters
Outerwear shell
Spare gloves
Chemical heat packs
Headlamp
Food (bars, gu, bagels)
Drink (1-2 liter)
Gloves/hat/warm clothes
Weather forecaset
Nice to Have
Ski poles
Snow shoes or xc-skis
Binoculars
Mylar emergency bag
Repair kit, supplies
Toilet paper
Cell phone
GPS/map/compass
Shovel (shelter, digging car out!)
THERMOS!

10. Where to climb: Auburn Ice Canyon

11. Where to climb: Newfoundland Lake and Flume

12. Where to climb: Rumney (Parking Lot Wall, Franky Lee)

13. Where to climb: Kinsman Notch

14. Where to climb: Champney Falls

15. Where to climb: Arethusa Falls

16. Where to climb: Crawford Notch (Willeys Slide, Walk in the Forest)

17. Where to climb: Frankenstein Cliff (Standard Route, Dracula)

18. Where to climb: Tuckerman’s Ravine

19. Where to Climb: Huntington Ravine
Check avalanche forecast:
Pinnacle Gully

20. Ice - Close to Home

21. Recommended Books on Technique
By Will Gadd

22. Sources of Information – Climbs and Conditions
An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England 3rd ed, S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox
NE Conditions reports:
Other NE guidebooks
Auburn Ice Canyon, Boston Rocks 2nd ed, MITOC
Franconia Notch, Secrets of Notch, Sykes
Adirondacks, Blue Lines, Mellor
Catskills Ice, Molaris
Yankee Rock and Ice : History of Climbing in NE US, Guy and Laura Waterman, S. Peter Lewis

23. Questions ?
Lunatic Ice Climber with Few or No Functioning Brain Cells, by Tami Knight