1. 1.02 Fabrics

2. Today’s Objectives
Be able to identify the characteristics of each identified fabric
Define the different types of weaves

3. Weaving
The process of interlacing yarns at right angles to each other to create a woven fabric
Woven fabric: fabric made by interlacing yarns at right angles to each other
Weaving is done on machines called looms

4. History By hands for hundreds of years
Hand-woven products today are usually costly, specialty items
Example: rugs made by Indians in the Southwest

6. Types of Yarns Warp: Longer yarns that run the length of the fabric
Filling/ Weft: Shorter yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric
Warp yarns are threaded onto the loom first
Filling/Weft yarns pass over and under the warp yarns
Selvage: turned filling yarns
along each side of a woven fabric
Very strong and will not unravel
Warp yarns are threaded onto the loom they must be strong and durable to withstand the strain they bear during the weaving process
Filling yarns pass over and under the warp yarns. When they reach an edge, they turn back and weave across the warp yarns in the other direction
Selvage is very strong and will not ravel

7. Types of Yarns Continued
Filling yarns/weft yarns are usually weaker than warp yarns
Yet they stretch more in
woven fabrics
Grain: direction the yarns run
In what direction do garments need to stretch across the body?
Garments need more stretch across the body than up and down.
Crosswise grain is along the filling/weft & lengthwise grain is along the warp
Grain: garments need to stretch more across the body than up and down

8. 3 Basic Weaves
Different effects can be created by passing the filling yarns over and under different numbers of warp yarns
Creates 4 basic types of weaves:
Plain
Twill
Satin

9. Plain Weave/Basket or Oxford Weave
Made by passing a filling yarn over one warp yarn and then under one warp yarn
Example: netting on a tennis racket, potholder
Strong, Durable, & easy to Sew
Wrinkle more and absorb less moisture
Basket Weave: made by passing 2+ filling yarn over and under 2+ warp yarns
Examples of plain weave fabric:
Broadcloth, poplin, gingham

11. Twill Weave/Herringbone Weave
Made when a yarn in one direction floats(passes) over two or more yarns in the other direction
Each float begins one yarn over from the last one
Have a distinct line or wale
Durable, Resist Wrinkles, and Hide Soil
Less stiff than plain fabrics that have the same number of yarns
Examples: Flannel, denim & gabardine
Each float begins one yarn over from the last one floats can be either filling or warp yarns

13. Satin Weave
Made by floating a yarn from one direction over four or more yarns from the other direction and then under one yarn
Each float begins 2 yarns over where the last float began
Used to make fabrics with a smooth surface
Known for their luster
Drapable
Not very durable and snags easily
Satin: warp yarns form the float
Sateen: filling/weft yarns form the float
Known for their luster. Luster is due to the exposed floats reflecting light.

15. Variations of Weaves Pile Weave
Has ends or loops of yarn that extended above the surface of the fabric. Ex: terry cloth

16. Leno Weave Warp yarns cross and twist
between the filling yarns which can not
shift
Leno weave fabric is transparently thin, durable, strong and permits passage of both light and air through it.
Examples of fabrics with leno weave are gauze, net, tulle etc. Used to make open weave curtains and draperies, thermal blankets, and netting

18. Weave Variations Jacquard Weave
Large and complex designs woven on a Jacquard Loom
Now computers punch the pattern on punch cards
Damask and brocade fabrics made this way.

19. Weave Variations Dobby Weaves Small, geometric patterns
Made by adding a dobby attachment to a regular loom
A plastic tape is punched with holes for the weave pattern

20. Review Time
Which fabric construction produces a firmer and heavier weave?
Twill
Which weave creates a lustrous appearance?
Satin
What are some fabric examples of a plain weave fabric?
Broadcloth, poplin, and gingham

21. Practice Time
Using the sample sheets you will create your own weave samples
Once you are finished with them, tape them to a plain piece of paper, put them in a protector sheet, put your name on the sheet and turn in by the end of class tomorrow.