1. Unit D MERCHANDISE INFORMATION
4.01 Identify basic textile fibers, fabrics, and their characteristics.

2. Textile Industry Terms
Fiber: The smallest unit in a textile fabric.
Yarn: A group of fibers twisted together to form a continuous strand.
Fabric: Any material that is made by weaving, knitting, braiding, knotting, laminating, felting, or chemical bonding.
Hand: The way a fabric feels to the touch.
Denier: Thickness or diameter of a fiber.
Microfibers: Ultra fine, soft, luxurious fibers possessing the same desirable qualities as expensive natural fibers but costing less and requiring less special care.
CAD (Computer Aided Design): Computer system software used for designing textiles, fashion, apparel, and other products.

3. Natural fibers Fibers from plants or animal sources.
Staple fibers: Lower quality, short fibers.
Filament fibers: Long, continuous fibers of higher quality.
Cellulosic fibers: Fibers from plants.
Protein fibers: Fibers derived from animals or insects.

4. Manufactured fibers
Fibers that are man-made (synthetic) and are created by combining various substances with chemicals.
Solid raw materials and chemicals are melted or dissolved to form a thick liquid.
The liquid is forced through the tiny holes of a mechanical device known as a spinnerette to form filaments. (Similar to pushing dough through a pasta machine to make spaghetti.)
The filaments are then stretched, hardened, and crimped and/or cut into lengths.

5. Manufactured fibers (cont.)
Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from cellulose from plants such as soft wood pulp and are changed into usable fibers by applying chemicals.
Noncellulosic manufactured fibers are made from various petrochemical mixtures of crude oil, natural gas, air, and water.

6. Blend: A combination of two or more fibers that maximizes the best features of each fiber.
Example: Combining cotton with polyester

7. Natural fibers
Cotton
Wool
Flax (linen)
Silk

8. Cotton
The soft, white, downy fiber (boll) attached to the seed of a cotton plant.
Most widely used of all natural fibers
Grown in the southern U.S. and other warm climates
Characteristics:
Strong and durable
Absorbent
Cool to wear
Shrinks in hot water
Wrinkles easily

9. Cotton Proper care Common uses: Underwear Socks Shirts, blouses Jeans
Machine wash
Tumble dry at moderate temperatures
Press with warm to hot iron
Common uses:
Underwear
Socks
Shirts, blouses
Jeans
Towels, sheets

10. Wool The fiber that forms the coat (fleece) of sheep.
Primary sources are Australia, South America, New Zealand, and United Kingdom
Characteristics:
Natural insulator; warmest of all natural fibers
Soft and resilient
Naturally flame retardant
Absorbs moisture more slowly than cotton
Shrinks if machine washed or dried unless chemically treated
Affected by moths

11. Wool Common uses: Sweaters Tailored suits Coats Blankets Upholstery
Proper care for untreated wool:
Dry clean or hand wash in cool water and a mild detergent (according to garment label)
Do not place in dryer
Press with cool iron
Common uses:
Sweaters
Tailored suits
Coats
Blankets
Upholstery
Rugs, carpets

12. Flax The fiber that comes from the stem of a flax plant. Common uses:
Grown and harvested primarily in Eastern Europe
Linen is made by weaving or knitting flax fiber into fabric.
Common uses:
Pants
Blazers
Table linens
Upholstery

13. Flax Characteristics Durable and strong Lustrous and smooth
Comfortable and cool to wear
Wrinkles easily
Creases difficult to remove
Can be expensive
Proper Care:
Hand wash or dry clean (according to garment label)
Iron while damp

14. Silk
The fine, lustrous fiber that comes from a cocoon spun by a silkworm.
The silkworm forces two fine streams of a thick liquid out of tiny openings in its head.
These streams harden into filaments or fibers upon contact with the air.
Primarily produced in Asia (Thailand, China, India), and Madagascar

15. Silk Characteristics: Luxurious appearance and feel
Strongest of all natural fibers
Drapes nicely
Expensive
Easily spots if fabric becomes wet
Weakens with exposure to sun and perspiration
Silk

16. Silk
Proper Care:
Dry clean or hand wash (according to garment directions)
Press on wrong side with warm iron
Common uses:
Wedding gowns
Lingerie
Men’s ties

17. Leather and Fur
Leather and fur are from the hides or skins of animals.
Leather: A tough, flexible material made by preserving animal hides through a process called tanning.
Tanning converts hides into finished usable leather.

18. Leather is used for: Handbags Shoes Belts Jackets
Primary sources:
Cattle
Goatskins
Sheepskins
Reptiles
Suede: Leather with a napped surface on the flesh side.

19. Fur The soft, hairy coat of an animal. Fur is used for: Coats
Outerwear
Trimmings
Common Sources
Mink
Chinchilla
Fox
Rabbit

20. Manufactured fibers
Polyester
Nylon
Acrylic
Rayon
Acetate
Spandex

21. Polyester Made from coal or petroleum
Strong and often blended with other fibers
Resistant to wrinkling
Shrink and stretch resistant
Easy to care for
Great washability
Pills easily
Static buildup
Common uses:
Children’s wear, shirts, suits

22. Nylon First fiber to be manufactured totally from chemicals
Strong, durable, elastic
Dries quickly
Resists wrinkles and soil
Washes easily
Heat sensitive
Clings to the wearer
Common uses:
Hosiery, swimwear, windbreakers

23. Acrylic Resembles wool Soft and warm Bulky, yet lightweight
Common uses:
Terrycloth
Bathrobes
Knitted garments
Outdoor furniture fabrics and awnings
Resembles wool
Soft and warm
Bulky, yet lightweight
Quick drying
Strong
Wrinkle resistant
Static buildup
Pills easily

24. Rayon Soft, absorbent, and comfortable Inexpensive
Stretches and is weak when wet
Mildews and wrinkles easily
Common uses:
Linings
Sports shirts
Jackets

25. Acetate Very versatile Inexpensive and easy to dye Silky, luxurious
Deep luster, soft
Wrinkles easily
Special care needed in cleaning
Common uses:
Neckties
Lingerie
Blouses
Linings

26. Spandex Known for its ability to stretch
Resistant to lotions, oils, sun, and perspiration
Easily damaged by chlorine bleach
Soft, lightweight
Durable
Nonabsorbent
Common uses:
Swimwear
Dancewear
Exercise wear

27. Steps involved in fabric production
Fibers are usually twisted together and spun into yarns.
Yarns are either woven or knitted to form fabric.
Color is added by dyeing or printing to enhance the fabric’s appeal.
A finish is applied to make the fabric suitable for its end use and to improve its appearance.

28. Turning Yarn into Fabric
Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.
Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.

29. Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)
Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest “give” or stretch in the fabric.

30. Weaving
Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn.
A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass.
Examples: Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta
Plain weave

31. Weaving
Twill weave: A weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new row.
Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface.
Examples: denim, gabardine
Twill weave

32. Weaving
Satin weave: A weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats.
Examples: sateen, satin
Satin weave

33. Weaving Other weaves Pile weave—corduroy, velvet
Dobby—dotted swiss, pique
Jacquard—brocade, damask
Leno—fabrics with an open, lacy appearance

34. Knitting Constructing fabric by looping yarns together.
Weft knits: Knits made with only one yarn that runs crosswise forming a horizontal row of interlocking loops.
Cut edges will curl.
Weft knits run if snagged.
Examples: jersey, ribbed knits, sweater knits

35. Knitting (cont.)
Warp knits: Knits made with several yarns creating loops that interlock in the lengthwise direction.
Do not ravel
Have selvage edges
Examples: tricot, raschel knits
Gauge: The number of stitches, or loops, per inch in a knitted fabric.

36. Additional ways to construct fabric
Nonwoven. Fibers are compacted together using moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, or pressure. Examples: quilt batting, garment interfacings, felt, artificial suede
Laces and nets. Made by knotting, twisting, or looping yarns. Example: lace
Braided fabrics. Created by interlacing three or more yarns to form a regular diagonal pattern down the length of the resulting cord. Examples: decorative trims, shoelaces
Bonded fabric. Made by permanently fastening together two layers of fabric by lamination. Examples: two fabrics bonded so that one serves as a self-lining as in skiwear or winter coats

37. Additional ways to construct fabric (cont.)
Quilted fabric. A layer of padding or batting is sandwiched between two layers of fabric and held in place by stitching. Examples of use: bedspreads, placemats, and outerwear

38. Fabric finishing
Applying colors, designs or surface treatments that change the look, feel, or performance of fabrics.
Bleaching: Chemical processes that remove color, impurities, or spots from fibers.
Dyeing: A method of giving color to a fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment.
Printing: The process of adding color, pattern, or design to the surface of fabrics.

39. Finish categories
Chemical: Finishes that become part of the fabric through chemical reactions with the fibers.
Affect performance
Examples: flame retardant, stain resistant (Scotchgard®), waterproof, permanent press, preshrunk (Sanforized®)
Mechanical: Finishes that are applied mechanically rather than chemically.
Affect size and appearance
Examples: glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cutting (corduroy)

40. Trends and Technology

41. Equipment and machinery
More automated weaving and knitting machines
Color management tools that can synchronize a colored design on a computer screen, a paper printout, and the actual fabric color
Sophisticated CAD tools with 3D capabilities
Processes constantly monitored by computer systems

42. Microfibers
Enhanced characteristics for high performance fabrics resulting in production of intelligent garments
- wicking (a fiber’s ability to draw moisture away from the body so it can evaporate)
- coolness
- warmth
- protection

43. Development of new recycling processes
Plastic soda bottles converted into polyester fiber
used to make fabric for t-shirts and filling for pillows
can be recycled numerous times without losing its performance attributes

44. Nonwoven fabrics
Finding increasing use in reusable apparel and other products
replacing traditional knits and wovens
widely used as interlinings in blouses, jackets, shirts, and waistbands
introduced for fishing and hunting apparel
used for medical textiles with special barrier materials to protect those in the operating room
printed nonwovens used for tops and blouses
also found in the SPF garments (garments that allow you to tan through the fabric at a controlled rate)

45. Individuality More choices in clothing for consumers
Demand for mass-customization in clothing.
In any mall, customers can find a store that will print a custom design on a t-shirt or embroider a customized design on a cap.
Land’s End will monogram initials on a garment.
Brooks Brothers handles orders for custom-made shirts or suits.
Mass customization is prevalent in the uniform sector where logos and names are embroidered or printed on garments. Examples: Federal Express, Postal Service, and football teams

46. New and improved textiles
Required to protect those who face hazardous environments
Lighter and stronger textiles required for sports
Absorbable, antibiotic, antimicrobial, durable, self-decontaminating, and comfortable textiles required for medical applications
Better filters, road-building fabrics, geotextiles, and textiles for spaceships and communication systems required for industrial use
Demand for textiles that can be reused and/or recycled

47. Smart fibers
“Smart fibers of the future will inform or assist the wearer. Potential applications include clothes that monitor the medical condition of the wearer, that warn of the presence of toxic chemicals, or that adjust to suit the wearer’s environment”.
Dr. Niall Finn, CSIRO Textile and Fiber Technology

48. Mirrors
“High-performance mirrors have been formed into hair-thin fibers and woven into fabrics and paper.”
Could create clothing and documents with advanced capabilities
Clothes that reflect and protect against invisible microwaves and radiation
Clothes that can change colors like a chameleon
Massachusetts Institute of Technology

49. Government regulations
The Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) provides that all garments made of wool have a label indicating the percentage and kind of wool used.
The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (1958) requires that all clothing have a label listing the generic fiber content by percentage.
The Flammable Fabrics Act (1953) regulates the sale of highly flammable fabrics used in apparel and prohibits the sale of extremely flammable fabrics.
The Permanent Care Labeling Act (1972) requires that all clothing offered for sale in retail stores have a label indicating specific care instructions. New symbols for use in this labeling were introduced in 1997.