1. The Complete Spa Book for Massage Therapists
EXFOLIATION: THEORY LESSON L-6.0

2. SPA THOUGHT
“Literally and figuratively, exfoliation prepares you to receive everything else the spa has to offer—the creams, oils, and natural products—plus it prepares you to receive the spiritual benefits of rest and renewal found at a spa.”
Susan Wheeler, Spa Director, The Spa at the Equinox

3. EXFOLIATION
Any technique or process that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
Second only to massage in popularity
Can be considered a type of hydrotherapy treatment

4. EXFOLIANTS & EXFOLIATION TOOLS
Exfoliant: any product applied to the body in order to achieve exfoliation
Exfoliation tool: loofahs, gloves, cloths, skin scrapers, & other instruments used to exfoliate the skin

5. THE WORD “EXFOLIATE”
From the Latin exfoliare, which means “to strip of leaves,” from ex + folium

6. EXFOLIATION HISTORY Egyptians used soda ash to scrub the skin
Romans used skin scrapers called strigils

7. EXFOLIATION HISTORY
In Turkish baths, a rough canvas wash cloth was used to exfoliate.
Finns exfoliated by beating the skin with birch branches in their saunas.
Native Americans exfoliated with sand, grasses, herbs, and animal bones.

8. PURPOSE OF EXFOLIATION
To cleanse the pores and prepare skin for absorption of products
To help the skin perform its natural processes
To leave client’s skin texture and appearance improved

9. EXFOLIANT TYPES
Two main categories of exfoliation treatments are used in the spa setting:
mechanical
micronized buffing beads, crushed nut shells or seed pits, sugar or salt crystals, pumice stones, abrasive cloths, & loofahs
chemical
compounds containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid

10. EXFOLIANT TYPES NAME DESCRIPTION Exfoliation
all mechanical and chemical processes
Body Scrub
all mechanical exfoliation services except salt
Body Glow
Salt Scrub
all mechanical exfoliation involving salt
Salt Glow
Body Polish
non-salt exfoliation, especially gentle ones
Sugar Scrub
use of sugar granules to exfoliate
Peel
used by estheticians for chemical exfoliation
“Ingredient” Scrub
“almond scrub,” “ginger scrub,” “peppermint scrub,” etc.
Dry Brushing
use of a dry bristle brush to exfoliate
Loofah Scrub
use of loofah mitts or pads to exfoliate
Herbal Scrub
use of dried herbs to exfoliate
Body Gommage
exfoliation with a cream that dries on the skin & is scrubbed away

11. SALTS Dead Sea salts from Israel – most popular
granule size ranges from fine to semi-coarse
high concentrations of minerals
magnesium chloride
potassium chloride
calcium

12. USING SALTS Salt typically mixed with other ingredients
water, massage oil, & essential oils
Occasionally combined w/ other exfoliants
corn meal or jojoba buffing beads
Larger salt grains = more intense action
table salt not recommended—too finely ground, not enough friction to exfoliate

13. SUGARS Not as abrasive as salt No mineralizing benefits like salts
Contain naturally occurring glycolic acid, one of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
helps eat away dead skin cells
Often blended with aromatic essential oils

14. NUT & SEED MEALS Shells Seeds Ground down smaller than a grain of sand
almond, walnut, etc.
Seeds
apricot, peach, etc.
Ground down smaller than a grain of sand
Irregularly shaped particles exfoliate skin

15. HERBAL SCRUBS Herb powders, moistened into a paste
Dry on skin into a flaky layer
Rubbed away with hands and fingers
A gentle exfoliation
Herbs add health benefits to exfoliation
Ayurvedic herbs often applied this way

16. BODY GOMMAGE Typically employed by estheticians on face
Involves the use of cream-like products
Cream dries on the skin
Buffed away with the palms & fingers

17. LOOFAH Multi-purpose exfoliation tool Used natural or as pads & mitts
Ground into powder & added to creams
Loofah is not a sponge but a fruit
Grows on a vine in the tropics
Dried out “skeleton” inside fruit is loofah 
Abrasive when dry, less so when wet

18. AYATE CLOTHS Made from the agave cactus in Mexico
Used dry, exfoliates & stimulates circulation
When soaked in water, turns smooth, used to wash the body after exfoliation
Popular at Southwestern U.S. spas
Similar to sisal, also made from agave

19. EXFOLIATING GLOVES Simple way to exfoliate the skin
Can be easily incorporated into a regular massage service
No water required to work
Inexpensive – can be offered to clients after each treatment

20. PUMICE STONES Stones not used for full-body exfoliation
Popular for manicures & pedicures
Ground pumice used in exfoliating mixtures
Very lightweight; fine buffing material
Source – volcanic eruptions & magma flow

21. DRY BRISTLE BRUSH Short, full-body exfoliations 5–10 minutes
before product applications
Stand-alone – ½ hour
Always applied dry
2 main benefits
exfoliation
stimulation of lymph flow

22. BUFFING BEADS Tiny spheres Synthetic – polyethylene buffing beads
Organic – jojoba buffing beads
Roll over the skin instead of scraping
One of the gentlest exfoliants

23. ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS “Unglue” dead skin cells for exfoliation
Derived from fruit & milk sugars
Five main types
glycolic acid from sugar cane
lactic acid from milk
malic acid from apples & pears
citric acid from oranges & lemons
LMTs can apply 10% or less concentration

24. THE SKIN Deeper – dermis Superficial – epidermis
nerve endings
capillaries
sweat glands
sebaceous glands
hair follicles
Superficial – epidermis
< 1/200th inch thick

25. SKIN RENEWAL PROCESS Keratinocytes created in stratum basale
These cells move outward & die
Form waterproof protein called keratin
Keratin flakes off naturally – desquamation
Exfoliation = therapist-aided desquamation
Frequency: max 1–3 times per week

26. EXFOLIATION MAJOR CONTRAINDICATIONS
Sunburn
Cuts, abrasions, & sores
Eczema
Recent shaving
Allergies
Delicate skin

27. EXFOLIATION TECHNIQUES
Wet room
shower used
Dry room
wash cloths, towels, loofah mitts, & sponges used
Wet Table Draping Protocol is used

28. EXFOLIATION STROKE Circular motions do not pull delicate skin fibers
Palms and fingers open & flat
Fingertips used for smaller areas
“Gentle but firm” pressure
pleasurable sensation
effective exfoliation
stimulates circulation

29. SUMMARY You now know: the meaning of exfoliation terminology
the historical background of exfoliation
the purpose of exfoliation
exfoliation products used in spas
exfoliation procedures used in spas
how the skin is affected by exfoliation
basic exfoliation maneuvers