1. Practical Deck Seamanship
ABL-11
Able
Practical Deck Seamanship
This PowerPoint is provided for those who may not have appropriate training aids available in a ship or location. This generally follows a companion lesson plan available at I expect you to modify it to fit your situation and teaching style. I am more concerned that Scouts learn than this fit a specific style. I am, however, a fan of the Effective Teaching model. Teaching EDGE is somewhat simplistic in its approach, but that has some advantages.
Note: These lesson plans may also be used for teaching in the ship. For administrative convenience, they cover the entire specific numbered requirement (except one, where Galley is covered separately!). Individual Sea Scout Academy lessons may only cover part of the requirements. Similarly, ships may find that even just a portion of a subrequirement is all that can be done during a particular ship meeting. Adapt these lessons as needed to fit your youth and your situation. Share these plans with your youth who are teaching.
Philosophy: Sea Scout Academy’s primary purpose is to teach the material to the Sea Scout. If the Sea Scout demonstrates mastery of parts of the subject, then the instructor should annotate on the class roster what has been passed, in the instructor’s opinion. Skippers have the right to re-examine any Sea Scout in any requirement. (Knots are not a good subject to give a pass in.) SSA may schedule only portions of ORD-8.
Instructors: George Crowl

2. Course Outline
a. Demonstrate your knowledge of personal safety equipment needed while cleaning, maintaining or repairing your vessel.
b. Know the names, uses, sizes, and proper care of the common hand tools used by your ship.
c. Identify and explain the use of the following: thimble, shackle, turnbuckle, pelican hook, and other ship's hardware and fittings commonly used aboard your ship's vessels.
Requirements:
Reference:

3. Course Outline (2)
d. Demonstrate proper surface and coating preparation, coating techniques, care of stored coatings, and cleaning of brushes and tools used to maintain surfaces on your ship's vessel.
e. Explain techniques used for the maintenance, protection, and repair of hulls and decks on your ship's vessel.
Requirements:
Reference:

4. ABL-11a
a. Demonstrate your knowledge of personal safety equipment needed while cleaning, maintaining or repairing your vessel.
Working on a vessel increases the risk with any job because the water, heights, the moving boat and the environment. Scouts should increase their caution. Certain tasks may need to be reserved for adults. Scouts should demonstrate by using the equipment for a task, or if that is not easily available, by donning or using the appropriate equipment.
P. 207 summarizes many of the issues of working on a boat. Go over those with the Scouts.
Some other issues to discuss – 1) Bottom pain is toxic. Scouts should probably not apply bottom paint, leave that to professionals who have the proper equipment. 2) Changing a light bulb on top of the mast can be an interesting task. We normally try to have both the main and jib halyard attached to the bosun's chair. Normally, winch the person up with two people, don't try to haul them up by main force. Insure they have the tools and knowledge to do the task, not just the lightest person available. A falling tool can cause serious injury, stay out from under and wear a hard hat nearby. 3) Working in the water requires a qualified safety observer.

5. Safety Equipment Safety goggles / face shield Protective clothing
Hard hat
Dust mask
Safety harness
Life jacket
Always work in pairs!
Working in a marine environment multiplies the safety hazards you will encounter. All the safety procedures you practice on land must be followed. Wear safety glasses or a face shield. Wear protective clothing, including a hard hat if it is appropriate. Use dust masks where needed, and use a safety harness if you are working where a fall is possible. Wear a life vest if going overboard could occur, and never work alone. Always have someone nearby on deck or in a compartment in case something goes awry.
Working on a vessel increases the risk with any job because the water, heights, the moving boat and the environment. Scouts should increase their caution. Certain tasks may need to be reserved for adults. Scouts should demonstrate by using the equipment for a task, or if that is not easily available, by donning or using the appropriate equipment.
P. 223 summarizes many of the issues of working on a boat. Go over those with the Scouts.

6. Other Issues Some jobs are adult only (bottom paint, etc.)
Working on the mast, those below wear hard hats
Not just the lightest person on the mast, best to do the job
Working in the water requires an observer
Youth doing the actual work may be less efficient, but much more learning takes place
Working on a vessel increases the risk with any job because the water, heights, the moving boat and the environment. Scouts should increase their caution. Certain tasks may need to be reserved for adults. Scouts should demonstrate by using the equipment for a task, or if that is not easily available, by donning or using the appropriate equipment.
P. 207 summarizes many of the issues of working on a boat. Go over those with the Scouts.
Some other issues to discuss – 1) Bottom pain is toxic. Scouts should probably not apply bottom paint, leave that to professionals who have the proper equipment. 2) Changing a light bulb on top of the mast can be an interesting task. We normally try to have both the main and jib halyard attached to the bosun's chair. Normally, winch the person up with two people, don't try to haul them up by main force. Insure they have the tools and knowledge to do the task, not just the lightest person available. A falling tool can cause serious injury, stay out from under and wear a hard hat nearby. 3) Working in the water requires a qualified safety observer.
Some other issues to discuss – 1) Bottom pain is toxic. Scouts should probably not apply bottom paint, leave that to professionals who have the proper equipment. 2) Changing a light bulb on top of the mast can be an interesting task. We normally try to have both the main and jib halyard attached to the bosun's chair. Normally, winch the person up with two people, don't try to haul them up by main force. Insure they have the tools and knowledge to do the task, not just the lightest person available. A falling tool can cause serious injury, stay out from under and wear a hard hat nearby. 3) Working in the water requires a qualified safety observer.

7. ABL-11b
b. Know the names, uses, sizes, and proper care of the common hand tools used by your ship.
For most ships, this will include those tools listed on p Some youth will not have much exposure to tools in their family. As many tool-using tasks as practical should be delegated to Scouts, even though it is less efficient to do so. They are learning much more by using the tools than by watching you. Personal coaching of a youth in a task, by an adult or an experienced youth leads to better knowledge.
Power tools are now most common for many jobs. Battery powered drills with many accessories are now quite common. Insure that youth are properly instructed and supervised in their operation before turning them loose. Consult the Guide to Safe Scouting, Age Guidelines for Tool Use and Work at Elevations or Excavations, for appropriate ages for certain tools.

8. Pliers What do these varieties do? Tools
Every ship needs certain hand tools because all vessels need tuning, adjustment, and repair regularly. Each ship is unique in its needs, but there are a number of useful hand tools that are commonly needed by all vessels.
Pliers give you a grip on almost anything, but often damage that item as well. Don’t use pliers if you have a wrench that fits the job.
Wrenches come in many varieties: open end, box end, specialty. Each is sized for a specific nut, metric or English. Have the right set.
Screwdrivers also come in a wide variety of heads, mostly flat-head or Phillips, but there are others. Use the right size.
Hammers (ball-peen and claw), hacksaws, knives, and other small hand tools are often needed.
For woodworking, you’ll need saws, chisels, planes, nail sets, rivet blocks, scrapers, clamps, files, drills, bit brace and bits, putty knife, spirit level, and rule.
On-deck tools should include wire cutters (of a size to cut any diameter wire aboard), routing iron, fid, needles, palm, wax, twine, wire brush, electrician’s tape, Mystik tape, sail repair tape, hand ax, tin snips, sandpaper, putty, caulking compound, sealer, etc. A good
extension light should be included.
All hand tools need reasonable care. Store them in a dry area so they won’t rust. Don’t abuse them by using them for something they are not designed to do. A screwdriver is not a pry bar. If tools become worn, replace them before they become dangerous.
For most ships, this will include those tools listed on p Some youth will not have much exposure to tools in their family. As many tool-using tasks as practical should be delegated to Scouts, even though it is less efficient to do so. They are learning much more by using the tools than by watching you. Personal coaching of a youth in a task, by an adult or an experienced youth leads to better knowledge.

9. Wrenches Many kinds (what kinds?) Select for the need Metric or SAE?
Put them back in order A

10. Screwdrivers Identify the types Some sized SAE
Some (Phillips) by number
Some metric
Flat head 3/32 - 5/8”
Phillips Size 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 etc.
Combination – Phillips 1 & 2, small & medium flat
Everybit – bit driver with square, Pozi, hex, star, etc.

11. Hammers Plus What kind? Why different ones?
What would you use a hacksaw for?
How would you use a rigging knife?
Does it have an emergency use? A

12. Power Tools
G2SS 2015 rules
14 & up – paint roller/sprayer, Dremel tool, screwdriver, hand sander, etc. Drills?
16 & up – lawnmowers, line trimmers, edgers, leaf blowers, hedge trimmers, belt sanders, pressure washers
18 & up – power saws (any kind), routers, chain saws, log splitters, wood chippers A
Power tools are now most common for many jobs. Battery powered drills with many accessories are now quite common. Insure that youth are properly instructed and supervised in their operation before turning them loose. Consult the Guide to Safe Scouting, Age Guidelines for Tool Use and Work at Elevations or Excavations, for appropriate ages for certain tools.

13. Teaching Do not assume a youth knows how to use a tool
Tell them how, then monitor their use until you are satisfied they are safe and effective A

14. Working at Height Up to 4 feet – OK
Over 14 – up to six feet following ladder standards
Over 18 – scaffolds or open platforms with fall protection
Does not address bosun chairs A

15. ABL-11c
c. Identify and explain the use of the following: thimble, shackle, turnbuckle, pelican hook, and other ship's hardware and fittings commonly used aboard your ship's vessels.
See the description of the items above on pp By the time a youth needs to pass this requirement, s/he should be familiar with each of the four items identified above by actual use on board the ship's vessel(s). They probably don't know how to size them, so show them how, but this is no longer a requirement. If your ship has a few other unique ship's hardware items that need to be taught, do so.

16. Pelican Hook Overcenter & latch Upper hook sized by length
Lower hook by wire diameter
Used on lifelines
Some other uses
Bottom hook quick release
Pelican Hook
The pelican hook is a hinged hook shaped like
a pelican’s beak that is held closed by a ring that is
easily released. It has various uses aboard a boat,
and is commonly seen securing lifelines. The
upper hook is sized by length. The lower part of
the pelican hook is sized by the wire or thread
that is attached to the hook.
Pelican Hook
The pelican hook is a hinged hook shaped like
a pelican’s beak that is held closed by a ring that is
easily released. It has various uses aboard a boat,
and is commonly seen securing lifelines. The
upper hook is sized by length. The lower part of
the pelican hook is sized by the wire or thread
that is attached to the hook.

17. Shackle Clevis shackle – mainsail or anchor attachment
Sized by clevis pin
Swivel shackle and twist shackle are varieties
Snap shackle – jib attachment or other quick release job
Sized by inner diameters
Shackle
Usually, this is a U-shaped piece of metal with a removable pin across the open end. Shackles are connecters. A clevis shackle can be used to connect the mainsail to the main halyard on a sloop or the anchor to the chain. A snap shackle is often used to connect the jib halyard to the jib or a topping lift to the boom. Clevis shackles are sized by the diameter of the clevis pin. Snap shackles are sized by the opening eye inner diameter and the bail inner diameter.
Shackle
Usually, this is a U-shaped piece of metal with
a removable pin across the open end. Shackles
are connecters. A clevis shackle can be used to
connect the mainsail to the main halyard on a
sloop or the anchor to the chain. A snap shackle
is often used to connect the jib halyard to the
jib or a topping lift to the boom. Clevis shackles
are sized by the diameter of the clevis pin. Snap
shackles are sized by the opening eye inner
diameter and the bail inner diameter.

18. Thimble Rope thimbles – anchor line, other wear points
Sized by line size
Can turn a sharper bend than a wire rope
Wire thimbles – running and standing rigging
Sized by wire size
Loop is larger for the diameter
Thimble
When there is a loop in wire rope, it is fitted around a thimble to keep it from bending too tightly. The thimble also keeps the cable from
pinching and abrading the inside of a loop. A rope spliced over a thimble is also protected from chaffing. You are likely to find a thimble with your anchor rode. Rope galvanized thimbles are sized according to the rope size, and stainless wire thimbles are sized according to the wire size to be wrapped around it.
Thimble
When there is a loop in wire rope, it is fitted
around a thimble to keep it from bending too
tightly. The thimble also keeps the cable from
pinching and abrading the inside of a loop. A
rope spliced over a thimble is also protected from
chaffing. You are likely to find a thimble with
your anchor rode. Rope galvanized thimbles are
sized according to the rope size, and stainless
wire thimbles are sized according to the wire size
to be wrapped around it.

19. Turnbuckle Attaches standing rigging to deck and chainplates
One thread is RH, one LH
Twist the buckle to tighten / loosen
Insure cotter pins / screws installed to prevent unwinding
Sized by bolt size and body length
Turnbuckle
This device adjusts the tension or length of ropes, cables, rigging, and other systems that need tensioning. The threaded part of the turnbuckle goes through two different eyelets in the body of the turnbuckle. One thread is left-handed, the other is righthanded.
When the turnbuckle is turned, it tightens or loosens the attached lines. Most standing rigging has turnbuckles for adjustment. Wire rope and cable expand and contract with temperature. Prolonged load can deform rigging. Turnbuckles allow adjustment back toward the ideal. Turnbuckles are sized by the bolt size and length of the body.
Turnbuckle
This device adjusts the tension or length of ropes, cables, rigging, and other systems
that need tensioning. The threaded part of the turnbuckle goes through two different
eyelets in the body of the turnbuckle. One thread is left-handed, the other is righthanded.
When the turnbuckle is turned, it tightens or loosens the attached lines.
Most standing rigging has turnbuckles for adjustment. Wire rope and cable expand
and contract with temperature. Prolonged load can deform rigging. Turnbuckles allow
adjustment back toward the ideal. Turnbuckles are sized by the bolt size and length of
the body.

20. ABL-11d
d. Demonstrate proper surface and coating preparation, coating techniques, care of stored coatings, and cleaning of brushes and tools used to maintain surfaces on your ship's vessel.
The requirement is to demonstrate. This lesson can teach, but the Scout has to do some real painting and brush cleaning.

21. Surface Preparation Remove old paint / varnish if needed
Sand smooth and clean
Use sealer on new wood
Surfacing compound to fill in any flaws
Primer to bond the paint
Apply coat(s) of paint / varnish
Agitate paint well, not varnish
Apply on a clear day, 60°-85°
The secret of lasting protection is the care taken in preparing the surface beforeapplying the finish. For a new surface, sand the area smooth and clean it carefully to remove any residue. On wood or plywood, use a sealer to set the grain. Then apply a surfacing compound to fill any dents or scratches, and a primer or undercoat to provide a smooth surface and a tight bond for the final finish. Use a primer on metal surfaces, also. On previously finished surfaces, remove the old finish by scraping, burning, chemical removers, or sanding to the point where the remaining surface offers a sound bond. If the surface is exposed, touch it up as you would a new surface. A rule of thumb is to take off as much of the old finish as you plan to put on (to prevent a heavy buildup of finish). On wood surfaces that are to be varnished to show the grain and beauty of the wood, sand smooth, remove any discoloration with a bleach, apply stain if desired, and apply at least five coats of good marine varnish. On previously varnished surfaces, sand carefully and apply at least two coats. The secret of a good varnish job is to sand lightly between coats.
Paint should always be thoroughly agitated and mixed before applying. Never mix or agitate varnish. It will form air bubbles that are almost impossible to work out.
For a new surface, sand the area smooth and clean it carefully to remove any residue.
On wood or plywood, use a sealer to set the grain. Then apply a surfacing compound to
fill any dents or scratches, and a primer or undercoat to provide a smooth surface and a
tight bond for the final finish. Use a primer on metal surfaces, also.
On previously finished surfaces, remove the old finish by scraping, burning, chemical
removers, or sanding to the point where the remaining surface offers a sound bond. If the surface is exposed, touch it up as you would a new surface. A rule of thumb is to take off as much of the old finish as you plan to put on (to prevent a heavy buildup of finish).
On wood surfaces that are to be varnished to show the grain and beauty of the wood,
sand smooth, remove any discoloration with a bleach, apply stain if desired, and apply at
least five coats of good marine varnish. On previously varnished surfaces, sand carefully and apply at least two coats. The secret of a good varnish job is to sand lightly between coats.
Paint should always be thoroughly agitated and mixed before applying. Never mix or
agitate varnish. It will form air bubbles that are almost impossible to work out.
Painting and varnishing should be done on clear days with a temperature range
between 60° and 85°F. Never apply finish to damp or rotted surfaces.

22. Storage Clean lids and cans Seal lids tight with rubber mallet
Paint gets old in a year or two, don't use old
Do NOT store paint (or other flammables) on a boat
Find an outdoor locker or garage
Well ventilated
Paints and varnishes should be kept in tightly sealed containers in well-ventilated lockers, but not aboard your vessel.A
Paints and varnishes should be kept in tightly sealed containers in well-ventilated
lockers, but not aboard your vessel. Brushes should be cleaned carefully in a solvent or
thinner and soap and warm water. Wrap in cloth or foil and hang up by the handles or
lay flat (never on end on the bristles) between periods of use.

23. Cleanup Water-based - Rollers can be cleaned with hose nozzle
Until NO paint comes off
Brushes – hose or bucket – NO paint coming
Oil-based -
Thinner – takes time – no paint coming
Brushes -
Hang up by handles
Never leave standing on bristles
Brushes should be cleaned carefully in a solvent or thinner and soap and warm water. Wrap in cloth or foil and hang up by the handles or lay flat (never on end on the bristles) between periods of use.

24. ABL-11e
e. Explain techniques used for the maintenance, protection, and repair of hulls and decks on your ship's vessel.
See p. 211 for general instructions. Again, practical experience is very useful, youth learn best hands-on. An experienced fiberglass worker can help 2-3 Scouts patch a Sunfish or other small boat. If it isn't perfect, it isn't a crisis. If that is not available, repairing an artificial hole in a sheet of thin plywood will teach the basics.

25. Fiberglass Repair
Recommend doing this with Sunfish and similar boats, they often take a beating
If every boat available is in good shape, this can be done with plywood or other materials for practice
Buy fiberglass patch kit at hardware store
Caution: Activator must be put in glass / metal cup and used within very few minutes
Fiberglass Repairs
As most of the contemporary boats used by Sea Scouts are constructed of fiberglass, the repair of damage to such boats should be known to all. Fiberglass is available in cloth, mats, ribbon, and powdered form. Exercise caution when working around this material as it floats in the air and is a hazard to your nose, eyes, and skin. Irritation is marked. Wear nose masks, goggles, and long-sleeve shirts.
Fiberglass is molded into a hull in a permanent mold which has been lined first with a parting compound and a layer of gel-coat. A layer of activated resin is applied followed by a layer of fiberglass cloth. Then another layer of resin and fiberglass until the desired thickness is obtained. Upon curing, by time, the hull is removed from the mold for
further processing.
To repair a hole in the hull of such a vessel, secure a patching kit from any hardware store and follow directions for activating the resin and note that mixing must be done in a glass or metal container using a disposable wooden stick. The activator will eat right through most paper cups. Depending on the ratio of activator to resin in your mix, you have about three minutes to use it before it becomes stiff.

26. Fiberglass Repair (2) Prepare the hole – sand a clean surface 2” out
Prepare the fiberglass – pre-cut your patches to match hole and / or larger area,
Mix your resin
Apply a coat to hull as an anchor, dry tacky
Soak first fiberglass layer, apply
Smooth with broad putty knife, outward
Allow to cure
Repeat as required
Prepare edges of the hole to be repaired by sanding a clean surface at least two inches all around. Next apply a coat of activated resin and let it dry until tacky. Then cut (with scissors) a patch of cloth equal to the cleaned area. Soak this patch in a fresh batch of activated resin using a stick or putty knife. Do not use your hands if at all possible.
Apply the patch to the opening and smooth down with a broad putty knife—from the middle outward. Smooth out wrinkles and bubbles and feather the edges. Allow to cure before application of successive layers, if needed. Complete with one or more coats of activated resin and allow to cure thoroughly.
Use 240-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to smooth and feather edges. Finish with 400-grit paper. Use plenty of water in each case. Let dry and paint, if required. Hands and tools may be cleaned with acetone, but use it sparingly. On occasion it may be possible to repair the gel-coat if the hole is not too large. Gelcoat repair kits are available in most marine supply stores together with instructionsA
Prepare edges of the hole to be repaired by sanding a clean surface at least 2 inches
all around. Next apply a coat of activated resin and let it dry until tacky. Then cut (with
scissors) a patch of cloth equal to the cleaned area. Soak this patch in a fresh batch
of activated resin using a stick or putty knife. Do not use your hands if at all possible.
Apply the patch to the opening and smooth down with a broad putty knife—from the
middle outward. Smooth out wrinkles and bubbles and feather the edges. Allow to cure
before application of successive layers, if needed. Complete with one or more coats of
activated resin and allow to cure thoroughly.

27. Fiberglass Repair (3) Finish with layer of resin, cure
Sand down and feather edges
Use 240 grit, then 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
Let cure
Paint as needed A
Use 240-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to smooth and feather edges. Finish with 400-grit
paper. Use plenty of water in each case.
Let dry and paint, if required. Hands
and tools may be cleaned with acetone,
but use it sparingly.

28. Questions? R