1. Tools

2. Claw Hammer Front part can have a rounded or waffled edge.
Typically grip lower so the weight of the head can drive in the nail.
Back part of the hammer is the claw. This can be used to pull out nails.

3. Tape Measure
Will be used for 99% of measurements in woodworking/set construction.
Needs to have a tab/hook at the end to grip onto objects being measured for more accuracy.

4. Level
Used to make sure all pieces are level/plum and safe to stand on and/or build off of.
When measuring you will check the level and the plum. Level = Horizontal Plum = Vertical

5. Slot/Flathead Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Slot/Flathead Screwdriver

6. Open-End Wrench
Typically has C-shaped ends. Each end will be a different sizes.
Used when only the side of a nut or bolt can be seen to help give you extra torque when tightening or loosening.
Use only when a box-end wrench can’t be used.

7. Box-End Wrench Combination Wrench
Better than open-end wrench because you don’t risk it falling off the nut or bolt.
Used when only the side of a nut or bolt can be seen to help give you extra torque when tightening or loosening.
Use only when a box-end wrench can’t be used.

8. Adjustable Wrench
If you can only buy one wrench, this is the best. Gives you greater range of use while taking up the least amount of room.
Known as the “knuckle buster” because it slips off very easily due to the specific angle needed for proper use.

9. Hex- Key/Allen Wrench
Instead of fitting around the nut or bolt, these are used to fit inside the six-sided depression inside the nut.
Small end is placed into the depression while the longer end gives you a handle for better torque.

10. Ratcheting Wrench
Looks like a combination wrench but the circular side can be used to “grab & slip” a nut or bolt. The benefit of this is that you don’t have to continue to take the wrench off to get the angle needed to turn the nut or bolt.

11. Socket Wrench
Similar to a ratcheting wrench. The plus is that you only need one ratchet bar. The sockets come in a variety of sizes and can pop on and off easily.

12. Sliding Bevel/ T-Bevel
Used to measure and draw angles.
Can be locked to draw similar angles quickly.
Two pieces (In pic)- Top piece is the blade. Lower piece is the stock

13. The Layout Square
A triangle that can be used to draw straight lines on wood.
Each side typically has an overhang to lay flat against the edge of the wood.

14. Clamps Come in a variety of sizes. Never buy cheap clamps!
Clamps can be used to hold pieces of wood together when nailing or screwing them together.
Clamps are most commonly used when gluing pieces of wood together. The clamps can be placed to hold wood together in a stronger grip than you can hold.
The more clamps you use the more accurate/even the pressure is being applied to the pieces.

15. Saw Horse
Most commonly used to hold pieces of wood when measuring and/or cutting.
Can hold a significant amount of weight if placed correctly.
You want to distribute the weight evenly when using.

16. Shop Vac
Helps keep sawdust out of your eyes and out of the air from inhaling.
Most shops are required to have stationary vacs hooked up to saws and other materials that produce materials in the air.

17. Circular Saw
Used to cut wood. Each saw has a TPI (Teeth Per Inch) ratio. More teeth equals a smoother cut but it doesn’t release the saw dust quickly. Can also cause wood burning
Less teeth means less burning but cuts are rougher
The gaps between the teeth are called gullets.

18. Sabre Saw/ Jig Saw Hand Saw Used for curves and pattern cutting.
Needs to be used with thinner pieces of wood. For thicker pieces you will use a band saw.
Comes in battery operated and corded versions. Corded versions will give you stronger power and greater range of use.

19. Band Saw
Gets its name from the saw being one big band of blades. The band has blades on one side and is flat on the other.
Can cut intricate cuts in thicker pieces of wood than the jigsaw. Can also cut plastics and some metals.
2 important things to look for. Depth of cut (distance between cutting plate & upper guides) and throat (distance between saw blade and back frame).
Throat
Depth of cut

20. Compound Miter Saw
Used to get precise angels on your cuts. Should have clear measurements so you know exact angles.
Saw can be locked to certain angles as well.
Very safe tool due to its saw covering that moves as you move the saw down and push the power button.

21. Power Drill
Come in corded and cordless versions. Cordless make it easier to get into hard to reach areas without any constraints. Corded versions are more dependable and are always ready to go. Corded drills also give you more consistent power.
Require the use of drill bits.

22. Brad Point Drill Bits
The end of this bit is called a spur. The point helps you drill straight clean holes into wood.
You use drill bits to make a hole that a nut and bolt can fit through and sometimes for a screw so as to not strip the wood.

23. Auger Drill Bits
Used to make large, deep, and accurate holes. The spiral helps get the wood being removed out so the hole doesn’t get clogged up and harder to drill into.

24. Wood Spade/Paddle Bits
Pointed tip begins the hole and the paddle-shaped blade bores large, wide holes. Most commonly used in wood.

25. Metal Drill Bits
Known as high-speed steel bits (HHS). Can be spotted by their typically black color.
Can be used to drill into wood or plastic but last the longest if used for metal only.

26. Hole Cutter Attachment for drills. Can cut both metal and wood.
The drill bit begins the cut with the round cutter following to make the hole larger. Drill bit begins to help the drill stay in line.

27. Various Bits:
Phillips Drill Bits
Flat-head Bits
Posidriv Bits
These are various uncommon sizes made for particular types of screws.
You can also have squared end bits.