1. MITOC Winter School 2004 Dan Walker (mostly copied from Ben Ingram)
Crampons
MITOC Winter School 2004
Dan Walker
(mostly copied from Ben Ingram)

2. Overview Introduction Crampon Types Fitting Crampons Using Crampons
Caveats

3. Introduction What are crampons? Why Use Them?
Metal spike that attach to your feet
Why Use Them?
Give traction on ice or steep snow
Cutting Steps Sucks
Hobnailing your Boots is no Longer in Fashion

4. All You Need To Know
NO!
YES!

5. Crampon Types: Number of Points
Instep crampons (about six points on instep)
Good for Emergencies
10/12 point crampons
Standard Mountaineering Use

6. Crampon Types: Flexibility
Hinged:
More comfortable
Tiring to front point
Use with any boot
Rigid:
Less comfortable
Less tiring to front point
Can only be used with rigid boots

7. Crampon Types: Point Orientation
Horizontal Front Points:
Better in snow and soft ice
Less balling (Horizontal Rails)
For general mountaineering
Vertical Front Points:
Better in hard ice
Can be Modular
Dangerous balling (Vertical Rails)
More Expensive

8. Crampon Types: Attachment
Straps:
Work with any boot
Harder to put on in cold
Step-in:
Only work with welted boots
Easy to put on

9. Crampon Types: Summary
With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point, strap-on crampons like the black crampons with yellow straps or the “old school” crampons
With Sorels, only the “old school” crampons fit

10. Fitting Crampons
Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that fall off cause accidents and slow down the group.
Adjust crampons at home
Adjust length and instep width so that crampon holds boot without straps
Strapping pattern
Test crampon fit
Practice putting on at home, so can put on with gloves or in cold

11. Crampon Ethics Levels of Hell 1: Lustful/Gluttonous 2: Seducers
3: Thieves
4: Hypocrites
5: Sowers of Discord
Levels of Hell
6: Murderers
7: Traitors
8: Unadjusted Crampons
9: WMNF Denim-wearers

12. Crampon Use Two approaches: Get as many points as possible into ground
Flat-Footing
Front pointing

13. Caveats They’re sharp and put holes in clothing and packs
Balling causes many accidents
Don’t glissade in crampons!
Crampons are both Metal and Cold