1. Our Beaches Are Funky
Strange shapes

2. Primary Coasts Shaped by terrestrial processes, earth movements
Earthquakes – land rifts or sinks
Glaciers – erosion, melting
Volcanoes – collapse, get built up or shift
Stream/river action –can erode or deposit
Our coastlines are highly irregular! No distinct pattern!

3. Deltas Deposition of sediment at the river mouth from river run-off
Fan-shaped deposits of sediment
Land extends into the ocean or sea

4. This is the Nile River
The river slows when it meets the ocean and drops sediment
Result is build up of land

5. Estuary
Estuary – drowned river mouth; ocean water fills in channels eroded by streams
Bays – when ocean water comes into land areas

6. Drowned river mouth – ocean water flows inland at the river mouth
Streams erode channels and ocean water fills them in
Get a mix of fresh and salt water
The Thames River Estuary in southern England

7. Fjord!
Fjord – long deep indentations in the coast caused by erosion from glacier movement and often have steep sides

8. Long, deep steep sided indentations into the coast
Caused by glacial erosion
This is Iceland

9. Bay
a body of salt or brackish (more salt then fresh water, less salt then sea water) water sheltered by a barrier island from the ocean, usually occurring where a river mouth is

10. Secondary coast Shaped by marine processes:
Erosion from waves and longshore current
Deposition from waves and longshore current
Over time coastlines smooth out and straighten

12. Long shore current
The flow of water along the shore created by waves breaking on an angle
Longshore transport – The movement of sand due to long shore current.

13. Erosional Coastline

14. Depositional shorelines
Primarily deposited by longshore drift
Barrier island
Spit
Lagoon
Beach
Fig. 10.7

15. Barrier Island
– an elongated island of sand separated from the mainland by a body of water

16. Barrier Island
Caused by deposition of sediment by the long shore current and waves
Unattached and parallel to the coast
Long, narrow and low elevation.
LBI
NC Outer Banks

17. Salt marsh
An area of soft wetland typically found behind barrier islands

18. Spit
Sand is deposited by longshore currents, builds up at the end of the island or mainland

19. Spit
Spit – long, low, narrow barrier island attached at one end to the mainland
Sandy Hook, Cape Cod

20. Lagoon
Wide shallow protected estuarine system; protected by a circular coral reef or atoll or

21. Protected by a barrier island or spit
This is Venice, Italy

22. Beach
the portion of the shore stretching from the berms to the sand bars, usually 30ft below the water

23. S
Fig. 10-1

24. Berm
A place on the beach that looks like a small cliff where the waves have eroded the beach.

25. Breaker Zone – where we find breakers

26. Surf zone
The area between the outermost breaking waves and the swash zone

27. Litter Line
The line of garbage and debris that is left by tides and waves on the beach.

28. Sandbar
A narrow mound of sand that lays just a short distance away from the shore and runs parallel to it.

29. Dunes
Mounds of wind deposited sand

30. Inlet
a break in a barrier island where ocean water and bay water can mix

31. Jetty
Jetty – A structure built to alter long shore currents and protect the entrance into a harbor. Jetties push the long shore currents away from the beach and cause serious erosion on their other sides.

32. Breakwater
An area of rock made to protect the shoreline, often times does more harm then good

33. Groin
A smaller jetty like structure. Found all along the NJ shore.

34. Washover
Waves that wash over the dunes

35. Washover

37. Rip current
Fast moving water that runs perpendicular to the shore and away from the beach. Occurs when there is a break in sand bar.

42. Undertow
The rush of water back away from the beach after the wave breaks. This does not suck you under but it does feel like it is pulling you.

43. Impress your friends this summer with all your new knowledge!

45. What should we do?
On the beach profiles you have made (the graphing), mark off what parts of the graph represent the different parts of the beach.
Read the Groins and Jetties article

46. Home work
Why are Jetties and breakwaters bad?

48. Accretion
is a process in which the size of something gradually increases by steady addition of smaller parts