1. Classification of dyes Based on Application
Class- T.Y.B.Sc.
Prof: L. P. Sutar ( M.Sc. NET-JRF)
M. P. A. S. C. College Panvel,
Dist- Raigad.

2. Classification of dyes Based on Application
No single class of dye can dye all fibers'.
A specific class of dye can only be applied to a given type of textile fiber.
Acid Dye
Basic dye
Mordant Dye
Direct Dye
Azoic Dye
Sulphur Dye
Vat Dye

3. Acid Dye
Acid dyes are highly water soluble, and have better light fastness than basic dyes.
The textile acid dyes are effective for protein fibers such as silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylics.
They contain sulphonic acid groups, which are usually present as sodium sulphonate salts.

4. Acid Dye
These increase solubility in water, and give the dye molecules a negative charge.
In an acidic solution, the -NH2 functionalities of the fibres are protonated to give a positive charge: -NH3+.
This charge interacts with the negative dye charge, allowing the formation of ionic interactions.
As well as this, Vander-Waals bonds, dipolar bonds and hydrogen bonds are formed between dye and fibre.
As a group, acid dyes can be divided into two sub-groups: acid-leveling or acid-milling.

5. ORANGE II
Example of acid dyes

6. Basic Dye Basic dyes are used to dye wool, leather and Paper.
They have poor affinity to cotton and cellulose fiber and hence they dyed with the help of mordant.
It is poor fast to light.
They contain basic nitrogen in the from of amino group.
e.g. Crystal Violet and Rhodamine B

7. Crystal Violet
Rhodamine B

8. Mordant Dye
These dyes can be applied or fixed on wool or other textile material with the help of an auxiliary chemical which is called as mordant and hence these dyes are called as mordant dyes.
The mordant are use to increase the dye – fiber affinity.
There are two types of mordant, acid mordant and basic mordant.

9. e.g. Eriochrome Black and Alizarin.

10. DIRECT DYES Direct dyes for Cotton, Viscose, Silk & Nylon
These dyes are easily applied from aqueous solution so they are called as direct dye.
Dyes have a good light fastness but only moderate wash fastness .
It is possible to improve on wash fastness by after-treatment of dyed article with dye- fixing agent.
These dyes are principally used for “not so expansive” products or product with fewer washes such as T-shirts, curtains & theatre productions.

11. AZOIC DYES
The dyes belong to this class are not ready made dyes but are formed on the substrate itself by the use of two components usually napthols and base.
The formation of this insoluble dye within the fabric makes it very fast to washing.
The deposition of the dye on the surface of the fiber produces poor rub fastness, but once the loose dye is removed by boiling the fabric in soap, the dyeing becomes one of the fastest available.

12. AZOIC DYES Normally it is dyed in cold for all natural fibers
Naphtol dyes are not sold in the form of a "finished dye" but in form of their components (Insoluble azo base & fast colour coupling compound) which combine on the fibre to produce a water insoluble azo dye of exceptional fastness properties.

14. VAT DYES
INDIGO, probably the oldest dye known to man, is one of the most important members of this group.
Natural indigo extracted from the plant 'Indigofera tinctorie' was used by the Egyptians in 200 BC.
The first synthetic indigo was introduced to the textile trade in 1897 & had the effect of completely replacing the natural product.

15. Although the vat dyes may be divided into 3 chemical groups, they are similar in that they are insoluble in water & become water soluble when reduced in the presence of an alkali.
After dyeing, the fabric is oxidized & the dye again becomes water insoluble.
Because of the time consuming & costly procedure in reducing vat dye into a water-soluble complex, dye manufacturers have produced a stabilized water- soluble vat dye.

16. This dye can be applied to cotton & viscose rayon by the methods used by applying direct cotton dyes.
After the dyeing, a simple treatment restores the vat dye to its normal insoluble state.
Solubilized vat dyes have an affinity for cellulose & animal fibres.
When the ultimate in wash & boil fastness is required.
Also used to dye over fibre reactive dyes for multi-layered dyeing.

18. SULPHUR DYES
The first Sulphur dye was discovered in France in 1873, & further work done by Raymond Videl enabled the manufacture of 'Videl black".
Its outstanding fastness to light, washing & boiling far surpassed any cotton black known at that time.
The general disadvantage of the Sulphur dyes that they produce dull shades & lack a red.

19. SULPHUR DYES - USE:
The use of Sulphur dyes is restricted to dull brown, Khaki & Navy shades, where a good wash but not boil-fastness is required.
Most Khaki & Navy overalls are dyed with Sulphur dyes.
An outstanding member of this family is Sulphur black.

20. SULPHUR DYES - USE
It dyes all cellulose fibres, but particularly linen & jute, to a lustrous & deep black with excellent wash & light fastness.
Sulphur dyes are dyed from a dye bath containing Sodium Sulphide & common or Glaubers Salt, & are oxidized by airing or with some oxidizing agents (Sodium Dichromate or Hydrogen Peroxide) in a fresh bath.

21. Chemical Structure:- 

22. Main Properties of the Sulfur Dyes
1.Economical dyeing with excellent tinctorial value and good build up properties.
2.Good overall colorfastness properties such as wash fastness , light fastness , perspiration fastness etc. Moderate fastness to crocking and poor fastness to chlorines bleaching agents such as bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite.
3.Limited shade range to produce only dull shades and there is no true red dye in the range.
4.These dyes can be applied by exhaust, semi continuous or continuous dyeing methods on garment , yarn , knits, fabric as well as loose stock etc

23. Types of Sulfur Dyes
There are three classes of sulfur dyes, which are available commercially, 1.Conventional water insoluble dyes which have no substantively to cellulosics. 2.Solubilised sulfur dyes , which are water soluble and non substantive to cellulosics. 3.Pre-reduced sulfur dyes, in the stabilized leuco compound form , which are substantive to cellulosics.

24. REACTIVE DYES
The main feature of the dyestuff is its low affinity to cellulose; therefore large amounts of salt are required to force its deposition on he fabric
After this has been achieved, addition of alkali causes the deposited dyes to react with the fiber.
Only a successfully concluded reaction guarantees a fast dyeing.
Basically there are two types of reactive dyes: the cold dyeing & hot dyeing types

26. REACTIVE DYES REACTIVE DYES - USE:
Cold water fibre reactive dyes, suitable for dyeing on cotton, silk, jute, rayon & hessian.
Cannot be used on synthetics or fabric that has been coated with resin or drip-dry finish.
REACTIVE DYES - USE:
Reactive dyes are used where bright dyeing with high light & wash fastness is required.
Cold dyeing is used extensively in batik work.
Although some reactive dyestuffs have been specially modified to dye wool, their main usage is in dyeing cotton linen & viscose rayon.

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