1. Washable wool yarn
JOONWHAN_LEE
MAY

2. Washable Wool
Labeled by SUPERWASH (washable wool), a trademark owned by The Wool Bureau, Inc. in June 14, 1974

3. History of Wool industry
1930s: The depression
Make do and mend
-Booklet produced by
British wartime government.
American Red Cross

4. Superwash wool yarn for Knitting
After the war,
There is a demand wool
knitwear that
is machine washable and
the modern
requirements for
total easy care
Wool.

5. Meaning of Washable Shrinkage of wool
After home laundry, heat, moisture and mechanical action cause the fiber to shrink and the edges of the cuticular scales to interlock, preventing the fiber from returning to its original position.
By applying resins or polymers with an acid solution with low ph, with certain temperatures, the cuticular scales can be smooth and prevent to felting.
The features (woolen)
As seams remain smooth and trouser creases are durable to washing, the garment needs only a light press after drying.
No loss of appearance during rain showers.
The features (worsted)
Milled/raised finishes are possible.
As seams remain smooth, the garment needs only a light press after drying.

6. WASHABLE WOOL YARN Testing the scale of wool fiber (ASTM D276)
Cashmere
Wool
Washable wool fiber

7. WASHABLE WOOL YARN Washable Mechanism:
i) a coating with resins such as polyamide epichlorohydrin or grafting polymers onto wool fibre.
ii) The morphological modification of the cuticular cells by chemical or physical treatments. The main method used was the Hercosett chlorination process applied as a continuous top treatment.
List of Superwash wool finishing
Enzymes
Plasma
Self crosslinking polymers
Chitosan

8. Chlorine Hercosett process
aims to “mask and smooth” the surface scales hence eliminating the DFE ( directional frictional effect ) which leads to wool felting during laundering
a polyamine-epichlorhydrin condensate resin is applied to pre-chlorinated wool fibres in the form of sliver or 'top'. The tops are then gilled and spun into yarn in the normal way
starting with acid chlorination to modify the epicuticle and thereby impart wettability.
create reactive functionality for the reactive polymer bonding and raise surface energy to allow the polymer coating to spread.
A subsequent step is antichlorination/neutralisation which creates further reactive functionality for the reactive polymer bonding and removes residual chlorine from the fibre.
This step is followed by application of the polymer, softening and drying.
The Chlorine Hercosett process has the disadvantage that adsorbable organohalogens (AOX) are produced in the chlorination stage, causing other solutions to be sought.

9. WASHABLE WOOL YARN
SHRINK RESIST FINISH PROCESS (Morphological modification)
An ultrathin silica layer coated on the wool altered both the surface roughness and
the surface energy of the fiber and endowed the wool fabrics with excellent water
absorption. The process of coating silica sols was dependent on an acid solution of low pH, which influenced the electrostatic interactions between nanoparticles and wool fibers.

10. End use DENIM DELIGHT LEVI'S WOOL DENIM 501 JEANS
3x1 creates Wool Denim collection
LEVI'S WOOL DENIM 501 JEANS

11. Washable wool yarn Count warp and fill (ASTM-D-3775)
Wool Denim 8 oz per square yard
Bull denim oz per square yard
Warp 68 50
Filling 32 46
Dimensional Change in Home Laundry after 1 wash (AATCC-135)
Wool Denim 8 oz per square yard
Bull denim oz per square yard
Warp -3 -2
Filling +2
Tensile Strength (ASTM-D-5034)
Filling
60 lbf, min
110 lbf, min

12. Washable wool yarn
1. Polymers used for washable treatments lead to weakening fibers with
chlorination pretreatments.
2. Absorable Organic Halogens(AOX)
A stand for absorbable is questionable. AOX include the most important
water Insoluble technical organochlorine product: polyvinyl chloride, PVC.
One of the major issues in the field of wool shrink resist finishing is the continual search for alternatives to chlorination pretreatments and chlorine containing shrink resist polymers.
Part for filling is washable wool with
light wash. The growth of filling leads to the fail in the constant quality of the wool products.

13. Washable wool yarn
“The Woolmark is the registered certification mark of The Wool Bureau, Inc”, New York Magazine Oct 13, 1980
Functional finishes for textiles: an overview by R. Paul, Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation gGmbH, Boennigheim Germany
Wool Denim “The feaures”, Woolmark, 06 May 2014
Our History, American Red Cross,
“FACTORS THAT PRODUCE SHRINKAGE”, National Cleaners Association,