1. Introduction to Stage Makeup
To a great extent, the makeup design gives the audience its primary clue to the age, health, and vitality of a character.
Stage makeup enhances the illusion that the actor has become the character.
The young can appear old, the pretty can appear ugly, and vice versa!
Stage makeup is also used to put color and definition back onto actors’ faces under bright stage lights.
Effective makeup will both exaggerate or minimalize an actor’s natural features as well as project the character (not the actor) to the audience.
This is because much of the communication between the actor and the audience is visual. .
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2. Introduction to Stage Makeup
Prior to the mid 1980’s, actors generally covered their entire faces and necks with a foundation of either greasepaint or pancake makeup.
This was very uncomfortable and in many cases caused skin problems.
As “street makeup” (what everyday people wear) evolved to be healthier and safer, so did theatrical makeup.
The style basis for makeup design has become more natural-looking to follow modern street trends, as well.
Of course there are exceptions, such as specific character makeups.
The word “makeup” can refer to different things:
The product used
The overall look
The action of putting products on
Greasepaint was the primary makeup product until the mid 1980’s. This stuff is GROSS!
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3. Introduction to Stage Makeup
In order to create a design that will transform the actor into the character, a makeup designer must understand what the character should look like.
Look at costume sketches
Analyze the script for information about the character’s appearance
Makeup designers consider things such as genetics, environment, health, disfigurement, fashion, age, and personality.
Genetics – height, skeletal structure, hair/eye colors
Environment – skin color & texture, etc.
Disfigurements – sometimes specified in a script, or added to symbolize character traits
Fashion – what is representative of the period of the play
Age/health – skin texture & quality
Personality – mood, temperament, etc. are conveyed through features such as eyebrows and wrinkles
The products in a Ben Nye Theatrical Makeup Kit help an actor achieve a wide variety of character effects, from bruises to old age.
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4. Introduction to Stage Makeup
The design process is as follows:
Commit to the project
Read the script
“What should the makeup look like for this show?”
Attend production meetings
Ask questions about the characters, budget, costume designs, schedules, etc.
Meet with the director, costume designer, & actors
Continue to ask any clarifying questions necessary (allergies, etc)
Makeup designers must meet with the actor to discuss allergies, product application, and more.
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5. Introduction to Stage Makeup
Research, research, research!
Background research regarding the character & the costume design
Conceptual research regarding any challenges the design may present, such as prosthetics
Create sketches of designs
Give yourself time to “incubate” ideas – sleep on them before you make final choices
Apply makeup to the actor
Evaluate designs and make adjustments
Evaluate your process honestly to know how you can improve
Makeup designers use sketch sheets like these to create initial design plans and make product and application notes.
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6. 1 Types of Makeup Cake makeup can be both dry and moist.
It is made of pigmented material compressed into cake form.
These can be base, highlight, and shadow colors.
Damp sponges are used to apply foundation colors.
If the applicator is too dry, the makeup won’t easily transfer to the face.
If the applicator is too wet, the makeup will seem thin and may streak.
Flat, pointed, and eyeliner brushes are used for detail work.
Highlights and shadows are usually applied over foundation, but can be applied under for a more subtle effect or to cover a heavy beard or pigmentation abnormality.
The most common brand of cake makeup today is Kryolan Aquacolor.
Cake makeup does not require powdering to set.
Kryolan Aquacolor is the most common brand of cake makeup in use today.
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7. Types of Makeup
Creme makeup is moist, but nongreasy.
It is applied with a sponge, brush, or the fingers.
It can be used in combination with cake makeup.
It requires powdering to be set,
Set – to prevent smearing or smudging
It is also available in stick form, generally referred to as “crayons.”
Liquid makeup for theatrical purposes is limited to body makeup.
However, liquid bases formulated for street wear can be used if necessary.
These dry quickly and are more difficult to blend.
Creme makeup can come in small pots (what we normally use) as well as “crayons,” shown above.
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8. Types of Makeup
Dry makeup includes all makeup that is dry when applied to the skin.
This includes face powders, pressed powders, pressed powder rouge, and most street makeup eyeshadows, blushes, etc.
It is normally used to supplement other types of makeup.
Face powder is primarily used to set creme and greasepaint makeup or to reduce shine.
It can also be used by itself as a “quick” foundation.
It is applied by pressing onto the face with a powder puff.
Excess powder is removed by gently brushing with a soft powder brush or clean rouge sponge.
Pressed powder is more commonly used in street makeup, but comes in theatrical-grade products as well.
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9. Types of Makeup
Greasepaint was the most commonly used type of theatrical makeup until the development of quality creme and cake makeup (it is rarely used today).
It is opaque and cream based.
It comes in jars, tubes, sticks, and tins.
To apply, first ensure skin is well-cleansed.
Apply greasepaint to the face and neck in small dots, then blend with fingertips to create a smooth, translucent foundation.
Greasepaint creates a greasy, shiny base that does not take highlights and shadows well.
If building layers of color, each layer must be set with powder.
A modern greasepaint kit (specifically formulated for use over latex). This type of makeup is not often used in today’s theatre industry.
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10. Types of Makeup
Makeup removers are made by several different manufactures, in both theatrical-grade and street-grade.
All-purpose removers from companies like Ben Nye can remove both makeup and spirit gum.
Spirit gum is typically removed with a specially- formulated remover.
Cleansing cream, cold cream, and baby oil can also be used to remove most makeups.
These are slightly more harsh on skin than commercial products.
Ben Nye’s Quick Cleanse makeup remover is one example of a commercial, theatrical-grade product.
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