1. Knits shirt and bottoms measurement & Test requirements
Polo Ralph Lauren
Knits shirt and bottoms measurement
&
Test requirements

2. Knit Shirts – measurement points
High Point of shoulder
The high point of shoulder is where the shoulder seam meets the neck seam for all garments with shoulder seams. For raglan, saddle shoulder, etc, the high point of shoulder is where the fold at the top of the body meets the neck seam.

3. Knit Shirts – measurement points
Imaginary line
The imaginary line is a straight line from high point of shoulder to high point of shoulder

4. Knit Shirts – measurement points
1. Chest
Measure straight across body at 1” below armhole.
2. Waist
Measure straight across body at 21” from high point of shoulder.
3A. Bottom
Hem bottom – measure straight across body at top of vent stitching.

5. Knit Shirts – measurement points
3B. Bottom
Rib waistband - Measure straight across at opening.
3C. Bottom
Bottom stretch – this is a minimum stretch taken at hem or waistband stitching.

6. Knit Shirts – measurement points
4. Front length
Measure straight from high point of shoulder to bottom edge of FRONT body.

7. Knit Shirts – measurement points
5. Back length
Measure straight from high point of shoulder to bottom edge of BACK body.

8. Knit Shirts – measurement points
6. Bottom hem/ Rib height
Measure from top of hem stitching or rib seam to bottom edge on front of shirt.

9. Knit Shirts – measurement points
7. Side vent opening
Measure top of vent opening to bottom front and back of shirt

10. Knit Shirts – measurement points
8. Across back
4” down from high point of shoulder, measure straight across back from armhole seam to armhole seam.
9. Across shoulder
On back of shirt, measure across from armhole seam at shoulder to armhole seam at shoulder.
10. Single shoulder
Measure along shoulder seam from where collar meets body to where sleeve meets body. 10

11. Knit Shirts – measurement points
11A. Armhole – set-in-sleeve
Measure from underarm point along curved seam to top of shoulder
11B. Armhole – raglan sleeve
Measure along front raglan line from neck seam to underarm point

12. Knit Shirts – measurement points
12A. Sleeve length (short) – set-in-sleeve
Measure from where armhole seam at shoulder meets sleeve to edge of sleeve including cuff / armband
12B. Sleeve length (long) – set-in or raglan sleeve
Measure from center back neck straight to edge of sleeve including cuff / armband.

13. Knit Shirts – measurement points
13. Bicep
2” down from underarm, measure straight across sleeve (perpendicular to top sleeve)
14. Forearm
7” up from bottom edge of sleeve, measure straight across sleeve.

14. Knit Shirts – measurement points
15. Sleeve opening
Measure straight across opening at outer edge.
16. Sleeve opening stretch
This is a minimum stretch. Measurement taken at cuff / armband stitching.
17. Sleeve opening stretch
Measure from top of hem stitching or cuff / rib seam to bottom edge.

15. Knit Shirts – measurement points
18. Front neck drop
Measure from back neck seam / top of neck tape at center back to front neck seam / top of placket at center front.
19. Back neck drop
Measure from imaginary line (high point of shoulder to high point of shoulder) to back neck seam / top of neck tape at center back.
20. Neck rib / Band height
Measure from neck seam to top of rib / neckband at center front. 20

16. Knit Shirts – measurement points
21. Neck width – seam to seam
Measure straight across back neck from high point of shoulder to high point of shoulder.
22. Inner neck width
Measure straight across neck at top of opening.

17. Knit Shirts – measurement points
23. Neck stretch
This is a minimum stretch measurement taken at neck back seam for all shirts without placket.

18. Knit Shirts – measurement points
24. Neck / collar length
Neck bands and collar – measure on seam line from front edge to fold, double measurement for total length.
25. Collar point to point
Measure collar from point to point along collar edge.
26. Collar height center back
Measure from collar seam to collar edge

19. Knit Shirts – measurement points
27. Collar height center front
Measure from collar seam, along edge to collar point.
28. Placket width
Measure placket from edge to edge.
29. Placket length
Measure from top center of placket to bottom.
30. Placket box height
Measure stitching parallel to placket edge

20. Knit Shirts – measurement points
31. Pocket width
Measure across top of pocket, edge to edge.
32. Pocket side length
Measure along side edge to pocket from top edge to bottom point
33. Pocket center length
Measure at center of pocket from top edge to pocket point.

21. Knit Shirts – measurement points
34A. Pocket placement
Pocket from center front – measure from center of chest.
34B. Pocket placement
Pocket from high point of shoulder – measure from high point of shoulder to top of pocket.

22. Knit Shirts – measurement points
35A. Logo chest placement
Logo from center front – measure from center front to center of logo.
35B. Logo chest placement
Logo from high point of shoulder – measure from high point of shoulder to center of logo.

23. Knit Shirts – measurement points
36A. Logo chest placement
Logo from side seam / vent – measure from side seam or vent edge to center of logo.
36B. Logo chest placement
Logo from bottom – measure from bottom front edge to center of logo.

24. Knit bottoms – measurement points
1. Front rise
Measure straight along from rise seam from top of pant, including waistband, to crotch join.
2. Back rise
3. Inseam
Measure straight down along inseam from crotch join to bottom of leg.
4. Outseam
Measure straight along side seam from top of pant, including waistband, to bottom of leg.

25. Knit bottoms – measurement points
5A. Waist
Relaxed waist – measure straight across opening, inside waistband.
5B. Waist
Extended waist – this is a minimum stretch measure taken at waistband stitching.
6. Waistband height
Measure straight across from side to side at 8” down from waistband seam / stitching.

26. Knit bottoms – measurement points
7. Seat
Measure 8” down from bottom of waistband and straight across.
8. Thigh
Measure 1” below crotch seam straight across from side to side of leg.

27. Knit bottoms – measurement points
9. Knee
Measure straight across leg from edge to edge at 15” down from crotch join.
10A. Leg opening - relaxed
Measure straight across opening from inside of leg.
10B. Leg opening - extended
This is a minimum stretch measure taken at leg band stitching.
11. Bottom hem
Measure from top of hem stitching to bottom edge.

28. Knit bottoms – measurement points
12. Pocket opening
Measure straight along opening.

29. Knit bottoms – measurement points
13. Pocket width
Measure across top of pocket from edge to edge.
14. Pocket side length
Measure along side edge of pocket from top edge to bottom edge.
15. Pocket corner length
Measure at center of pocket width from top edge to pocket to bottom of V-point.

30. Knit bottoms – measurement points
16A. Pocket placement
Measure from bottom of waistband to top of pocket / pocket flap.
16B. Pocket placement
Measure at nearest top of pocket edge / flap edge to side seam.

31. Knit bottoms – measurement points
17. Pocket flap width
Measure along top edge of flap.
18. Pocket flap height
Measure from top to bottom of flap.

32. Knit bottoms – measurement points
19A. Logo placement – logo from waistband
Measure from bottom of waistband to center of logo.
19B. Logo placement – logo from side seam / vent
Measure from side seam / vent to center of logo.

33. Knit bottoms – measurement points
20. Logo placement
Logo from bottom hem – measure from bottom front edge to center of logo.
21. Drawstring length
Measure from center back on waistband to end of drawstring.

34. Test Report for Knits
All fabric test would be carried out by Fabric Mill ( Fuan ) , except for Fleece program for the test of Flammability , and Fiber content, must submit to ITS for testing.
Fabric test report from fabric mill are being submitted to Luen Thai technical department for checking, then will be passed onto merchandiser to be submitted to POLO QA for approval.
Garment Test ( consumer test ) are done in our factory.
Garment test report from factory QA are to be submitted to merchandiser , then pass on to POLO QA for approval to determine the correction instruction on care label.
Click to get the Consumer Wash Test Report
Click to get the Knits Fabric Test Report

35. Fabric Test

36. Common fabric testing standards
AATCC:
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
ASTM:
American Society for Testing & Materials

37. AATCC
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists is the world's largest technical and scientific society devoted to the advancement of textile chemistry. The Association has some 5,000+ individual and 270 corporate members in the U.S. and in 65 countries.
AATCC accomplishes its objectives: Education, Research & communication, through a variety of activities: publications including but not limited to the monthly magazine AATCC Review and the annual AATCC Technical Manual, workshops and symposia, the annual International Conference & Exhibition, and member participation in research and technology committees.

38. ASTM
Organized in 1898, ASTM is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world.
ASTM is a not-for-profit organization that provides a forum for the development and publication of voluntary consensus standards for materials, products, systems and services. More than 32,000 members representing producers, users, ultimate consumers, and representatives of government and academia from over 100 countries develop documents that serve as a basis for manufacturing, procurement, and regulatory activities.
ASTM develops standard test methods, specifications, practices, guides, classifications, and terminology in 130 areas covering subjects such as metals, paints, plastics, textiles, petroleum, construction, energy, the environment, consumer products, medical services and devices, computerized systems, electronics, and many others.
More than 10,000 ASTM standards are published each year in the 73 volumes of the Annual Book of ASTM Standards. These standards and related technical information are sold throughout the world.

39. Conditioning Most test are done in conditioning laboratory
Condition the preconditioned skeins in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 70 +/- 2oF (21 +/- 1oC) and 65 +/- 2% relative humidity, until moisture equilibrium for testing is reached, that is until the mass of the specimen increases by no more than 0.1% after 2 hours in the standard atmosphere for testing.
For fabric length and width testing, fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test.
While for fabric weight testing, the fabric MUST be fully conditioning before processing the test.

40. Oven Drying
Place the skeins as wound, or after scouring in an oven, and maintain the temperature at 105 +/- 3 oC (221 +/- 6 oF). Arrange the skeins to permit free access of air. Dry the yarn to constant mass, that is until it loses no more than 0.1% of its mass at 15-min intervals if weighed in the oven or at 30-min intervals if weighed outside the oven.

41. Flammability Test 16 CFR 1610 (CS-191-53)
It is important to know both whether a fabric will burn or not, and, if it does, how quickly the flame will spread through it. The flammability testing procedure therefore determines both whether a fabric will ignite and the time that it takes to burn. Standardized conditions are applied including the size of the sample, the flame length used, and the timing of the test. The fabric sample is first placed in an oven at about 105oC for 30 minutes, then put in a flammability tester where a flame is applied and the result observed. The fabric is then classified according to whether it burned, and if so, how long the flame took to spread.

42. Fiber Identification ASTM D276, D62
This test method describes physical, chemical and microscopical techniques for identifying textile fibers used commercially. Fibers may be examined in raw fiber form or taken from yarn or fabric.

43. Fabric Length ASTM-D3773-90 (1996)
Fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test.
These test methods cover four options for measuring fabric length and are applicable to full rolls or bolts of materials.
There are four approved options of measuring length as follows:
Option A -Hand
Option B -Drum
Option C -Clock
Option D -Folding
The values stated in either SI units or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system must be used independently of the other, without combining values in any way.

44. Fabric Width ASTM-D
Fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test.
These test methods cover the measurement of the width of fabrics, pile or napped surface width, or both. The method is applicable to full rolls, bolts of fabric, and short specimens removed from a roll or bolt. Unless otherwise specified, measurements shall include the selvages when present.
The method offers two options:
Option A -Full Roll or Bolt.
Option B -Short Specimen Removed from Full Roll or Bolt.

45. Fabric Weight ASTM-D3776
Fabric mass per unit area is expressed either as grams per square meter (ounces per square yard), or grams per linear meter (ounces per linear yard). Fabric mass is no also sometimes expressed inversely as linear meter per kilograms (yards per pound) with the fabric width stated.
Fabric mass is calculated from the mass of a specimen the length and width of which have been measured as directed in one of the procedures in test method D3773 and D3774

46. Thread Count ASTM-D3887
This specification covers test methods and tolerances applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield, mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength, moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber composition.
These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and the like.

47. Yarn size ASTM-D1059
For the test of ASTM-D1059, it covers the determination of the yarn number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from napped or cut pile fabrics. Since this method is based on short-length specimens, the results should only be considered as approximations of yarn number.
For the test of ASTM-D1907, it covers the determination of the linear density of all types of yarn in package form, subject to the limitations of size and stretch. Provision is made for expressing yarn linear density in all the traditional yarn numbering systems

48. Dimensional Stability – home laundering AATCC-135-1995 IVAi (3 wash)
The dimensional stability test is designed to show how well a fabric keeps its shape after washing. Washing usually results in shrinkage, although some fabric can expand, or gain, after washing. For this test, the washing time and temperature, drying procedure and restoration technique (such as ironing) are all specified, and options are available. The sample is measured in both the warp and weft directions (or wales and courses for knitted fabrics). The percentage of shrinkage (gain) is calculated and the results compared with commercially accepted standards.

49. Dimensional Stability – Dry Cleaning (perchloroethyl) AATCC-158
This test method specifies a dry cleaning procedure, using a commercial dry cleaning machine, for the determination of dimensional change of fabrics and garments after dry cleaning in perchloroethylene.  It comprises processes for normal materials and sensitive materials.
Very sensitive materials, which can be cleaned only when special precautions are taken, are excluded from the scope of this method.
The test method is intended only for the assessment of dimensional changes undergone by a specimen subjected to a single dry cleaning and finishing operation.   When it is desired to determine the amount of progressive dimensional change, the method may be repeated a specified number of times, normally not exceeding five cycles.

50. Skewing Appearance – home laundering / dry cleaning AATCC-124
This test method is designed for evaluating the smoothness appearance of flat fabric specimens after repeated home laundering.
Any washable fabric may be evaluated for smoothness appearance using this method.
Fabrics of any construction, such as woven, knit and non-woven, may be evaluated according to this method.
This test method shall not be construed to provide a standard of performance for any textile item, but only a standard method by which to evaluate performance of the item.

51. Color Fastness
An important property of fabric is its color fastness or ability to keep its original color. To assess the amount of color change or staining that takes place in a fabric, “grey scales” are used. The grey scale for assessing color change rates the results of a test from class 1 (poor, substantial change of color) to class 5 (excellent, no change in original color). Similarly, the grey scale for assessing staining rates the results from class (heavy staining) to class 5 (no staining).
There are different types of color fastness which need to be tested as the color of a fabric can be affected by a variety of factors.

52. Color Fastness to Accelerated Laundry AATCC-61
The apparatus used for this test is known as a launderometer. Specific sizes for fabric swatches are prepare for laundering, one being retained for color change comparison. The color change is assessed by using the grey scales under standard lighting conditions. Any staining is measured in the same way.

53. Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC-132
This test method is intended for determining the colorfastness of textiles to all kinds to dry cleaning.
The test method is neither suitable for the evaluation of the durability of textile finishes, nor is it intended for use in evaluating the resistance of colors to spot and stain removal procedures used by the drycleaner.
This test method gives an indication of results to be obtained from three commercial dry cleanings.

54. Color Fastness to Dry & Wet Crocking AATCC-8
The crockmeter test determines the degree of color which is transferred from one surface to another by rubbing. The test reveals the presence of surface dyes that have not been removed properly by rinsing, or a failure of the dye class to give good dye affinity and fixation. The test, which can be done under either wet or dry conditions, involves mounting the fabric sample in a crockmeter, which rubs it in continuous cycles against a standard white test fabric. A fixed pressure is applied for a set number of cycles, and the amount of color which is stained onto the white test fabric is then assessed by comparing it with the grey scale for assessing staining.

55. Color Fastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach AATCC-172-1996
In this test, after the sample is bleached, grey scales are used to evaluate the color change, and the result is compared with commercially accepted standards.

56. Color Fastness to perspiration AATCC-15
In this test, a fabric sample is soaked wit a simulated perspiration solution. It is then subjected to mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly in certain atmospheric conditions for a period of time (as specified by testing standard). Changes in color and staining are assessed by the appropriate grey scales.

57. Color Fastness to Light AATCC-16E
It is important for fabrics such as curtains and upholstery to good light fastness properties. In the test, a fabric sample is exposed to daylight under given conditions, including protection from rain, together with eight dyed wool standards. Its color fastness is assessed by comparing the color change of the sample with that of the standards. Results range from class 1 (substantial color fading) to class 8 (no color fading).

58. Random Tumble Pilling ASTM-D3512
This test method covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics. The method utilized the Random Tumble Pilling Testing. The procedure is generally applicable to all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics.