1. Design Idea Target market is essential.
Consumer trend research or target market research
Includes: demographic data, lifestyle data, trend forecast.
Design development:
Mood Board
Target market, brand image, product
Silhouette
Natural, hourglass, A-line
Design details
Collars, necklines, pockets, pleats
Test Muslin - A muslin reproduction of the pattern, pinned, or stitched together in the form of a garment.
To check the fit, balance, and proportion
To check fabric potential of a drafted design
To adjust the fit of a new design on a dress form or on a model

2. Pattern making
Block or sloper: Tag board or digital pattern follows the natural contours of the body. custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.
First Pattern: developed for a design
Working Pattern: work in progress
Final Pattern: paper or digital pattern for muslin or sample garment. It’s tested first and than corrected for sample or production.

3. Marking a pattern Every pattern piece should be marked with a
Grainline
Notches and punches
In addition must include the following information
Season fall, winter, holiday, resort, spring, summer
Style number or name
Piece sleeve, pocket, front, back, front facing
Size S, M, L or size 2, 4, 6, 12
Cut 2/self, 2/lining, 1/fold

4. Cutter’s Must / Pattern Card
A form containing pattern information
Style number or name
Yardage
Size S, M, L or size 2, 4, 6, 12
Sketch of the garment
A list of all the pattern pieces and cut
Description of findings

5. Markers and Layout
A CAD program is useful because it automatically calculates the yardage needed and indicates how many layers of fabric need to be spread in order to complete the desired number of products.

6. Notches
Notches are small marks, about 1/8” to ¼” depending on the value of the SA.
Notches are used to match two pieces of fabric together and sew correctly.
In the industry notches are a way of communication between the pattern maker, cutter, and the sewing machinist.
Notch can be used by itself or in groups or two or three
Notches also denotes seam or hem allowance
Notches should be placed parallel or perpendicular to the CF, CB or center of a pattern.
Notches should be at right angle to the seam allowance.
Notches are used on the outer/cut edges of the pattern, such as front, back, sleeve, and shoulder

7. Notches Naoki Takizawa, SS11, “Mode & Science III – Anthoropometria”.
This image shows a garment by the designer Naoki Takizawa that was part of his Spring-Summer 2011 collection. The image provides a great way of seeing how pattern notches are used to join different shapes of fabric together to ensure that the garment puzzle pieces will join together correctly when sewn.
Notches are not normally seen on the finished garment and for this reason it can sometimes be hard to show examples of notching in contemporary fashion, except in cases such as this image where the process of making the garment becomes a visible and aesthetic part of the design,

8. Notches Notches on commercial patterns cut with scissors
Outward notches
Cut small notches to prevent tearing
Notch the side of the corner that will be sewn first (horizontal seam or vertical seam)
Notch only one side of the corner
Notches on industrial patterns
cut with a notcher

9. Notches vs. Circles
An awl is a pointed tool used to circle, punch mark or drill holes inside of a pattern where notcher will not fit
Notches indicates the following
Seam allowance
Gathers
Front (one notch), back (two notches)
Tucks and edges
Pleats
Dart legs
Circles indicates the following
Dart point
Button and buttonholes
Pocket placement
Applique placement
Corner
belts and loops
Awl
Notcher

10. Refer to the Reader’s digest book for more information
Tailor Tacks
Refer to the Reader’s digest book for more information

11. Seam Allowance The distance between the raw edge and seam line
¼”: Enclosed seams (facing, neck, waistband, cuff)
½”: All the other seams
Side seam, shoulder seam, princess seam, CB
5/8”: used in commercial patterns (unless otherwise indicated)
1”: for fittings

12. Notches