1. The Thermal Transmittance properties of knitted fabric
Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing

2. Learning Objectives Function of garment
Definition of thermal transmittance
Factors affecting thermal transmittance
Experiment
Conclusion

3. Function of Garment
To preserve body heat loss in the cold weather and therefore the thermal transmittance properties of fabric is important

4. Definition

5. 4. Main Sections of Computer
CPU;
Memory;
Peripheral Interface
5. Input & output device
Input: sensors on knitting machine; keyboards, light-pen; tapes and discs.
Output : actuators on knitting machine, light; digital and graphic display; tapes and printer.

6. Read and Write Memory (RAM)
6. Memory: ROM and RAM
Read only memory (ROM), non-voltaile, cannot be erased.
Hold important program and is programmed in manufacturing.
Others: PROM and EPROM
Read and Write Memory (RAM)
Is voltaile and data can be erased.
Use to store data and programme during processing.
Two types: Static RAM and Dynamic RAM

7. 7) Knitting machine program and control
Electronic machine eliminates all punch cards, chains, rack wheel, peg drum, element but which are expensive and bulky.
Interactive computer graphics enable designer draws pictures and display on the screen. Colour can be added/changed immediately. Pattern can be rotated, stretch, mirror and scale.
Designer can freely explore his/her ideas using the computer tools

8. Modern V-bed Knitting Machine Control

9. Machine Control
The modern V-bed m/cs abandoned the pasteboard card control because:
The electronic parts are cheaper to produce than the mechanical parts;
Numerical is more accurate and very fast in response;
Programs are easy to file or store;
Easy to duplicate the programs

10. Two control methods Numerical and computer control
Numerical Control
They are the simple control for non-jacquard knitting. It contains a control panel with function keys and control knobs for data input. The major advantages is that no pasteboard card and hole punching is needed.

11. Computer Control Computer Control
The numerical control is only good for simple knit collars, rib straps and body panels without pattern. Once individual needle selection is involved, computer control must be used.
Modern electronic V-bed m/c has :
Central Processing Unit: The brain of m/c control with data like pattern, machine control, economizer, pattern development.
Keyboard : This is used for giving command or make modification.
Tape/Floppy reader : The pattern and data input device
Visual Display Unit : A monitor to display all information of the knitting machine.

12. Example :Shima Seika
The modern electronic V-bed m/c (says, Shima Seika), divided the systems into 6 sections, namely
Control tape;
Pattern tape;
Pattern development tape;
Stitch tape;
Economize tape; and
Yarn carrier tape

13. Shima Seika Control System
1 Control tape
Similar to punch card in mechanical machine, it is a one inch paper tape with 8 row holes. The tape is divided into block, one block is the same as one punch tape.
2. Pattern tape
This sector contains all the pattern details. The design is normally created in a CAD system and is now transferred as a series of holes in the punch tape. The length of tape will depend on the pattern size, the longer the design, the longer will be the tape.
3. Pattern development tape
This is to control the location of the pattern onto the fabric. It can be mirror the design or repeat the design horizontal/vertically etc. See Figure

14. Shima Seika Control System
4. Stitch tape
This is used to control the stitch length (loop length) of the fabric. Modern V-bed m/c could have over 30 different setting in the memory for different material and structure design.
5. Economizer tape
The economizer on the mechanical V-bed is to use the minimum number of pasteboard cards for sweater panel. For the electronic machine with computer control, the system can memorize all the repeat structure and sort out the necessary cards or blocks in the design automatically.
6. Yarn Carrier tape
In cut and sewn panel, the yarn carriers are set at fixed places about 2 to 4 cm away from fabric selvedge. For fully fashioning panel (or intersia), the knitting width is changing all the time, the yarn carriers must stop in varies position.
The stopping of yarn carriers is controlled by the computer which is either changes the location of the carrier stoppers on the rails or commands the cam carriage to release the working yarn carriers at specific location above the needle bed

15. Discussion
Discuss the different between numerical and computer control system
List out the five control systems found in Shima Seika Electronic knitting machine