1. New active for oily skin care – zinc octanoylsalicylate
Marta Klimczyk MD
Katarzyna Pytkowska MD Eng.
Jacek Arct PhD Eng.
Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland
Medical University of Lodz, Clinic of Dermatology and Children’s Dermatology, Poland

2. anti-inflammatory antibacterial sebostatic keratolytic
Source: e-infopages.com

3. The target: pilosebaceous unit
keratolytic
sebostatic
antibacterial
anti-inflammatory

4. Zinc and the skin 6% of the body zinc is located in the skin
Mostly in the epidermis (appr. 60 mg/g d.c.)
The concentration of Zn in the skin decreases with age
Complex multi-effects
Antimicrobial
Regulation of keratinization and fibroblasts functions
Inhibition of sebum secretion
Anti-inflammatory
Protects against free radicals
Regulation of melanogenesis

5. Zinc and the sebaceous gland
Dihydrotestosterone stimulates the sebaceous glands activity
Dihydrotestosterone is formed from testosterone by 5-α-reductase
Zinc inhibits 5-α-reductase activity
Zn prevents inflammations, indirectly hampers secretion of sebum
Inhibition of triglyceride hydrolysing microorganisms growth including Propionibacterium acnes
Zn inhibits also bacterial lipases activity

6. Zinc and fatty acids profile
Zinc is required for the normal activity of - 5 and  - 6 desaturases
Both enzymes play an important role in the synthesis and metabolism of fatty acids in the mammary sebaceous gland
Zinc affects the sebum fatty acid profile and liquidity of triglycerides and bacterially-released fatty acids and its salts

7. Cosmetics effects of LMW hydroxyacids activity
Direct effect
Brighter, smoother skin (because we remove the excess cells of the stratum corneum)
The indirect effect no. 1
Improved color, reduced hyperpigmentation (accelerated recovery, the epidermis becomes "younger")
The indirect effect no. 2
Accelerated recovery accelerates the epidermal barrier renewal
The indirect effect no. 3
„Unplugging" of the hair follicles (less problems with the formation of blackheads)

8. Lipophilic hydroxyacid: the octanoylsalicylic acid (LHA)
LHA acts similar to the salicylic acid (SA) but:
Is more lipophilic
has another dynamic penetration into the stratum corneum
LHA accelerates exfoliation and epidermal renewal, improves the condition of the epidermal barrier and general skin condition
Is a stronger keratolytic agent than than SA, influences desmosomes (desmolysis)
Exfoliation is less aggresive than with classical AHA’s
It strongly disperses the melanin clusters in the viable epidermis
Used at concentrations lower than SA
Activity takes longer than in the case of SA

9. keratolytic
sebostatic
antibacterial
anti-inflammatory
LHA Zn Zn Zn
LHA ?
We have investigated the potential of cosmetic application of a new cosmetic raw material: zinc octanoylsalicylate (ZnLHA salt)

10. The study We have checked the influence on the
sebaceous gland activity: sebum level decrease (sebumetric assessment)
skin moisturization (corneometric assessment)
epidermal barrier condition (tewametric assessment)
as well as general condition of oily skin (consumer evaluation)

11. The study 16 healthy volunteers
Age: y.
Oily skin: initial sebum level a.u. (sebumetric ass.)
Acne level: 1-2 (no severe inflammations)
Moderate to very good general cosmetic knowledge
6 week study, daily application of 1% ZnLHA salt emulsion (twice a day)
All measurements conducted 12h after the application, standarized humidity and temperature conditions

12. Evaluation results

13. Prolonged effect
Start of the treatment
Last application of the active

14. Slight improvement of
moisturization and barrier
condition with prolonged effect
… but we had well educated volunteers with very good initial skin moisture level and barrier condition

15. Self assessment: skin condition
Scoring:
-2: extremely bad
-1: bad
0: neutral
1: good
2: very good

16. Self assessment: safety and comfort
Scoring:
-2: extremely high
-1: high
0: neutral
1: moderate
2: none

17. Evaluation results The compound
exhibits good sebostatic activity with prolonged effect (as assessed one week after last application)
improves the barrier condition
was highly scored in consumer subjective self-evaluation
It could be used in wide range of cosmetics intended for young, oily complexion
Cosmetic use of ZnLHA is a subject of patent application

18. Thank you for your attention!