1. Fabric Finishing Techniques and Innovations
Objective 1.02

2. Fabric Finishes Any special treatments that are applied to fabrics.
May be permanent or temporary.

3. Purposes of Fabric Finishes
Reduce undesirable characteristics.
Improve desirable characteristics.
Create specific designs.
Offer smoother or firmer hand.
Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle resistance.

4. Greige Goods
Refers to fabric right off the loom.

5. Dyeing Textiles Dyes Compounds that penetrate and color fibers.
Different fibers require different types.

6. Methods of Dyeing
Stock (fiber)
Solution
Yarn
Piece
Product

7. Kinds of Dyes
Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiber Acid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk. Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk. Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.

8. Colorfast
Color in a fabric that will not run or fade with washing or wear.

9. Printing Textiles
Involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern of design.

10. Types of Printing Wood Block Roller Screen Rotary Heat transfer Resist
Digital

11. Wood Block Printing
Earliest form of printing
Slowest method

12. Roller Printing Design is etched on copper rollers
Each color in design requires separate roller
Simple and fast
Expensive

13. Screen Printing Can be done by hand or machine.
Uses a mesh screen, ink and a rubber blade to transfer print.
Different screen used for each color.
Screen printing by hand
Machine screen printing

14. Rotary Printing
Combines both roller and screen printing methods.

15. Heat Transfer Created using transfer paper/ink
or with vinyl/vinyl cutter
Design transferred with an iron or
heat press
T-shirts are commonly printed
with this method.

16. Resist Printing
Resist printing involves a two-step procedure in which a design pattern is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that will prevent the dyes from penetrating the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the color is absorbed only where there is no resist. Then the resist is removed.
Resist Printing- uses wax or chemicals
Batik fabrics

17. Digital Printing
Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.
Design is created using a computer:
1) Hand-drawn then scanned
into a computer.
2) Created using custom
software (Photoshop,
Illustrator, etc.)

18. Structural Design Woven directly into the fabric.
Provides an interesting texture.
Example: jacquards

19. Finishes Affecting Appearance and Texture
Stone Washing
Acid washing
Napping
Flocking
Brushing
Embossing

20. Stone Washing and Acid Dyes
Hugely popular in the 1980’s.
Pumice stones used to create a
faded fabric look.
Acid Dyes:
Introduced to produce same
effects as stone washing.
Not environmentally friendly.

21. Enzyme Washes or Bio-Stoning
Less harmful for the environment.
Various effects can be achieved.
Can be used to soften fabric.

22. Napping
Raises the fiber ends to the surface to be clipped, brushed, or left raised. Creates a softer, fuzzy texture to the fabric.
Common fabrics include: fleece, suede flannel, corduroy, and velvet.

23. Flocking Surface design Applied to the fabric.
Applying texture by depositing many small fiber particles onto a surface of fabric.

24. Brushing Mechanical Finish Fabric passed through wire rollers.
Produces soft and fluffy fabric.
Common fabric: fleece

25. Embossing Fabric is passed through engraved rollers.
Creates a raised design.

26. Performance Finishes Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal Anti-static
Durable press (Permanent Press)
Shrinkage control/Sanforized
Mercerization
Stain release/Stain resistant

27. Performance Finishes Water repellent and waterproof Flame-resistant
Mildew resistance
Moth resistance
Wrinkle resistant/
Crease resistant

28. Innovations in Textiles
Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the chemicals used to form fibers has been altered.
Microencapsulation
-Particles are filled with active
ingredients and applied to the
fabric or garment.
*Examples- moisturizers, insect repellents

29. Innovations in Textiles
Microfibers
-primarily made from polyester or nylon
-single strand of fiber is finer than silk.
Polar fleece
-napped polyester knit fabric

30. Eco-Friendly/Green Fabrics
Reduce the health and environmental impact by lowering the amount of chemicals and other harmful substances used in growing/processing.
Examples:
Bamboo fabric- biodegradable
Organic/Bio Cotton- hypoallergenic
Lyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp
from trees grown in replanted forests.

31. Smart Fabrics E-textiles (Electronic Textiles)
Fabrics that enable digital components to be embedded.
Wearable technology