1. Stitching by Machine
Part 4

2. Stitching Lengths Basting Standard Reinforcement Temporarily holds
Very long, 6 stitches per inch
Standard
Permanent seams
10 – 12 stitches per inch
Reinforcement
Add strength to areas
Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch)

3. Types of Machine Stitching
Stay-stitching
Prevents stretching as you handle fabric
Placed on bias and curved edges
Directional stitching
Prevents seam from stretching or changing as you stitch
Stitch with the grain

4. Standard seam stitching 5/8 of an inch Backstitching
Almost all patterns
Backstitching
Secures ends of a row of stitching
Stitch back and then forward again

5. Understitching Topstitching Keeps facing from rolling out 1/8 inch
On right side of fabric, see figure 12-5 page 503
Topstitching
Decorative and functional
Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems
See Figure 12.6 Page 503

6. Edge stitching Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds fabric and seams in place
Topstitching very close to finished edge
Zippers and neck edges figure 12.8
Stitch-in-the-ditch
Holds two or more layers together
Secure neckline, armhole, etc
On the outside in the groove of the seam line

7. Zigzag stitching Specialty stitches Decorative
Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach cording
Decorative designs
Specialty stitches
Decorative

8. Before You Sew Practice sewing on scrap material
Is the stitch length correct?
Are stitches correct width?
Is the tension right?
Needle smooth and straight?
Presser foot firm and tight?
Handwheel tightened after winding the bobbin?

9. Unit Construction
Unit construction – complete individual parts as fully as possible before sewing them together
Complete stay stitching etc

10. Removing Stitches Mistakes happen
Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers or small scissors

11. Hand Sewing Thread a needle Usually single thread
Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure 13.1

12. Types of Hand Stitching
Basting stitch
Temporary stitching that marks or holds pieces together
Removed when permanent stitching is done
Two types
Uneven and even

13. Running stitch Backstitch Simplest Gather, ease, tuck, quilt
Use where little or no strain See figure 13.4 Page 507
Backstitch
Strongest hand stitch
Repair machine stitch seams and fasten thread ends

14. Pick stitch Slip stitch Variation of the backstitch
Used to insert zippers
Slip stitch
almost invisible
Can attach one folded edge to another
Patch pockets, hems, linings, etx

15. Over cast Hemming stitch Prevents raw edges from unraveling
Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric
Hemming stitch
Slanted stitch
Finishing stitch

16. Blind stitch Catch stitch Barely visible from garment’s right side
Hemming and holding facings down
Catch stitch
Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together
flexible

17. Cross-stitch Buttonhole stitch Decorative stitch
Center back of pleat jacket
Buttonhole stitch
Handworked buttonholes
Attaching hooks and eyes
Decorative finish

18. Blanket stitch Chain stitch Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers
Decorative finish
Chain stitch
Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers
Double thread to form a series of loops

19. Pressing Fabric
Press (raising and lowering iron )rather than iron (slides back and forth)
Use correct temperature setting
Always test your fabric to see reaction
Press on wrong side whenever possible
When pressing on right side, always use a press cloth

20. Never press over pins
Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them
Press directionally with the grain
Press seams flat before you press them open

21. Press curved areas over a curved surface
Tailor’s ham
Prevent press marks on right side, slip pieces of paper under the edges of the seam
Check the fit of the garment before you press sharp creases, pleats

22. Don’t over press When pressing an entire garment
Start with small areas first
Collars, cuffs, yokes
Later press large flat areas

23. Pressing Techniques Flat areas
Place garment on ironing board with both seam allowances to one side
Open the fabric and place over board

24. Curved areas Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham)
Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches
Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham

25. Enclosed Seams Press seam flat Press seam open
Turn right side out, gently push out corner or point
Press garment section flat on ironing board

26. Gathered areas Press seam allowances together flat
Slip garment over end of ironing board
Press direction up into the gathers with the point of the iron

27. Shrinking in Fullness
Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure
Use your fingers to pat out any folds
Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness

28. Final Pressing While constructing garment
Light pressure will remove wrinkles
Light touch up at end

29. Making Darts
Fold the dart with right sides together matching stitching lines
Stitch from the wide end to the point
Stitch the last two stitches as close to the fold line as possible
Tie the thread ends

30. Pressing Darts
Always press dart before crossing it with another seam

31. Gathering and Easing Fabric
Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches
Stitch the first row of basting next to the seam line
Leave the threads long
Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave thread long

32. Pin the fabric edges matching, notches, seams, etc
Pull up both bobbin thread from one end
Gently slide the fabric along the stitching
Wrap ends around a pin
Distribute gathers evenly and pin
Stitch with standard stitching along stitch lines

33. Shirring is formed by several rows of gathers
Easing most often used at shoulder seams
See page 518 figure 16-7

34. Sewing Plain Seams Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas
Pin baste fabric layers together
Raise the needle and take up lever
Position fabric under needle
Lower presser foot
Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward
Stitch forward slowly and evenly

35. Clip threads at the seam end and beginning
Finish the seam edges if necessary

36. Turning a corner
Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in fabric
Lift presser foot
Turn fabric
Lower presser foot and continue

37. Turning a Sharp Point
Take one or two diagonal stitches across the corner
Raise presser foot, leave in needle and stitch diagonal

38. Reinforcing Reinforcement stitches on side of each point
Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out

39. Special Seam Treatments
Trimming
Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly)
Grading
Trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width (reduces bulk)
Clipping
On curved seams, making tiny clips or snips (1/4 to ½ inch)

40. Notching
Curved seams with too much fabric
After being trimmed or graded
Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8 to seam line