2. 28
Serging Skills

3. Summarize how the serger functions.
Objective
Summarize how the serger functions.

4. How the Serger Functions
Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments
Also called overlock or overedge machines
In one step, sergers
join two layers of fabric to form a seam
trim extra seam allowance
and overcast fabric edges
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5. How the Serger Functions
Sergers cannot be used for all sewing tasks
Most sergers only stitch on fabric edges and not inside areas
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6. How the Serger Functions
Newer machines have stitches similar to regular sewing machine stitches but cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or insert zippers
Most home sewers use the serger to supplement—not replace—a conventional sewing machine
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7. How the Serger Functions
Advantages of using a serger
Works well on fabrics from lightweight chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit and woven fabrics
Make doing hems and ruffles quick and easy
Give a professional seam finish to garments such as unlined jackets, curtains, place mats, and other items
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8. How the Serger Functions
A serger uses two, three, four, or five cones of thread depending on the model
It uses one, two, or even three needles
Instead of bobbins, it has upper and lower loopers that form the stitch
© Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock
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9. How the Serger Functions
A serger loops thread around the needle thread, encasing the fabric edge (a sewing machine creates stitches by interlocking bobbin and needle threads)
Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric
The needles and loopers form stitches over the fabric edge as it passes through
During stitching, knife blades trim the seam allowances
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10. How the Serger Functions
A serger performs many functions at the same time to create the stitches
As you feed fabric into the machine, it reaches the feed dogs first
As fabric moves along, the knives trim the edge
Then loopers and needles form the stitches on the fabric
Fabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind the needle
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11. How the Serger Functions
A serger runs much faster than a conventional sewing machine
Using a serger can reduce the sewing time of a project by as much as half

12. Think About It
© Levent Konuk/Shutterstock
Why does using a serger reduce the time needed to sew a garment?

13. Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.
Objective
Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.

14. Serger Machine Parts
Although there are a variety of types and models of sergers, they have many similarities
The instruction manual for a serger identifies the parts of the machine and the function of each

15. Basic Serger Stitches Serger stitches vary with machine make and model
Aside from common stitches, sergers can produce decorative stitches for an interesting look and extra emphasis

16. Overedge Stitch
Overedge stitch is used solely as an edge finish on garments
Uses one needle and one looper
Can prevent raveling in sheer and lightweight fabrics
Least bulky stitch
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17. Flatlock Stitch
Flatlock stitch uses one needle and one looper to join a seam; a three- thread stitch uses two loopers
Used in sportswear or lingerie elastic application
Seam is visible from right side of garment
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18. Rolled Edge Stitch
Rolled edge stitch creates a rolled hem; seaming for sheers, laces, or silk
Use to stitch narrow rolled hems to finish scarves, ruffles, etc.
Use three-thread machines for light- to medium-weight
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19. Overlock Stitch
Overlock stitch is a three-, four-, or five-thread stitch
Core serger stitch
Stitches, trims, and overedges a seam in one operation
Suitable for a wide variety of weights and types of fabric
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20. Cover Stitch
Cover stitch is a stretchable stitch mainly used for hemming knits
One looper thread interlocks all the needle threads
Does not use cutting blade
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21. Chain Stitch Chain stitch does not overlock fabric edge
Functions as a standard straight stitch when cutting knives are disengaged
Top side looks like a straight stitch; underside resembles a chain
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22. Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.
Objective
Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.

23. Selecting Thread and Accessories
Special serger threads are available on cones or tubes
Advantages of serger threads include
fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk
strength
cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing
larger quantities
economy
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24. Selecting Thread and Accessories
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The cone adapter is used when the thread is on a cone
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25. Selecting Thread and Accessories
Place a spool cap (or unreeling disk) over the spool to provide even feeding of thread
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26. Selecting Thread and Accessories
Some slippery or specialty threads require the use of a thread net that helps prevent thread tangling
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27. Objective
Demonstrate how to thread and operate the serger, adjusting thread tensions and stitches as needed.

28. Threading the Serger
Follow the directions in the owner’s manual provided with your serger
Many machines are marked with a color-coded threading guide
Thread the loopers and needles in the correct order; otherwise, the threads may break or stitches may not form properly
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29. Threading the Serger
Always thread the loopers before the needles—the upper looper first
Each time you change thread, you can tie threads from the new spools to the old threads to save time

30. Operating the Serger
Set all tension dials to 5 (or as directed by the instruction manual)
Make sure the upper knife is lowered and in the cutting position
Lower the presser foot
© Alex Hinds/Shutterstock
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31. Operating the Serger
4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot, serge a 2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called chaining off
Place the fabric in front of the presser foot where the longer feed dogs will pull the fabric forward; do not push or pull the fabric
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32. Operating the Serger
At the end of the seam, continue sewing to form a 3-inch thread chain; do not raise the presser foot
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33. Operating the Serger
7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank

34. Adjusting Thread Tension
Thread tensions may need to be adjusted for changes in fabrics, threads, stitch type
A serger has a tension regulator for each thread
To make tension adjustments, turn the dial by only half or one number; test sew and check the results

35. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width
When fabrics, threads, or stitches are changed, the stitch length and width may need to be adjusted
Use shorter, narrower stitches for lightweight fabrics
Use longer, wider stitches for heavyweight fabrics
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36. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width
Length of the stitch is distance in millimeters (mm) between needle penetrations
Width of the stitch is distance in millimeters between the needle thread and the trimmed edge of the fabric
Stitch
width
Stitch
length
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37. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width
To change the length of the stitch, use the stitch length adjustment dial
To change the width of the stitch, some sergers have an adjustable dial; other sergers may require a change in the needle plate

38. Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.
Objective
Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.

39. Using a Serger in Clothing Construction
A serger can be used three ways
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40. One-Step Method
Seams are stitched, trimmed, and overcast all at one time by the serger
Needle stitches on the seam line
Knives automatically trim the correct amount

41. Edge Finish Method
Garment’s raw seam edges are finished with the serger
Garment is then stitched together with a sewing machine
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42. Edge Finish Method
Recommended when fit is uncertain and for tailored garments sewn from wools, linens, and silk
Using the continuous overcasting technique can save time

43. Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method
Creates a narrow double-stitched seam
Ideal for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics or knit fabrics
Use to reinforce areas of stress in a garment
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44. Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method
Standard 5/8-inch seam is stitched using a sewing machine (two lines of stitching are shown to the right)
Seam allowances are serged together (with needle 1/8 inch from the first line of stitching)
© Frank Zosky, Photographer

45. Mock Flat-Felled Seam
Mock flat-felled seam uses both the conventional sewing machine and the serger
Useful with denim and other heavyweight woven fabrics
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46. Mock Flat-Felled Seam
Stitch a standard seam with right sides together using the sewing machine
Using a serger, overlock the seam allowances together, trimming slightly
Press seam allowances toward one side
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47. Mock Flat-Felled Seam
4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from the right side next to the seam line 5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the first topstitching line through all layers

48. Think About It
Which two methods of using a serger in clothing construction require the use of a sewing machine as well?
© OfiPlus/Shutterstock
© Levent Konuk/Shutterstock

49. Selecting a Pattern
Many commercial patterns are designed specifically for serger sewing, but the serger can be used to sew a garment from any pattern to some degree
Since sergers trim seam allowances as they sew, they are often used to sew loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do not require precise fitting

50. Transferring Pattern Markings
Mark garment pattern pieces with a water-soluble or air-erasable marking pen or tailor’s chalk
Don’t use notches because stitching with a serger removes them

51. Fit Before You Sew Be sure to fit before you sew
Once a seam is stitched, the seam allowance is trimmed away

52. Construction Order
Best way to assemble a serged garment is to use the flat method of construction
With this method, you sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the round
For example, you finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, and hems before serging underarm and side seams

53. Think About It
© Thomas M Perkins/Shutterstock
List the steps you would take in constructing a T-shirt using this method.

54. Demonstrate how to serge various types of seams.
Objective
Demonstrate how to serge various types of seams.

55. Serging Seams Sewing seams with a serger is fast and easy
The type of seam you choose depends on the garment design, type of fabric, and durability desired
You need to know how to serge curves and corners and how to begin and end a seam

56. Overlock Seam Basic overlock seam is made using three or four threads
Suitable for woven fabrics; ideal for knits because seams stretch
Seam allowance is cut off as you sew so be sure of the fit before stitching
To make this seam, place right sides of the fabric together and serge on the 5/8-inch seam line

57. Serged and Topstitched Seam
Also called an exposed seam; stitches show on garment’s right side
(See right) A four- thread overlock stitch gave the decorative edge; a sewing machine stitched pocket to the garment
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58. Lapped Seam
This seam gives a decorative effect on the outside of the garment; ideal for reversible garments or thick, loosely woven fabrics
Serge to the seam line on one side of the seam; on the other side, skim the edge of the seam with serging, leaving the seam allowance
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59. Lapped Seam
2. Lap trimmed seam edge over the other, aligning the 5/8-inch seam lines; use fusible web or fabric glue to hold layers in place 3. Using a conventional sewing machine, topstitch the seam together

60. Flatlocked Seam
This seam offers a decorative effect and is used on knit sportswear
Use for many fabric weights, but not with fabrics that ravel
To make this seam, adjust your serger for flatlocking according to the serger manual
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61. Serging Curves and Corners
To accurately serge inside or outside curves, watch the knife rather than the needle
When serging in a circle, serge around the circle and overlap the stitching for one inch, then serge off the fabric’s edge

62. Serging Corners For outside corners
Stitch along one side of the fabric and off the edge, leaving a chain
Stitch the next side, crossing and securing the first line of stitching
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63. Serging Corners For inside corners
Mark the stitching line and cutting line
Clip corner to within 1/8 inch of stitching line
With the serger, stitch to the corner, stopping when the blade reaches corner cut marking
Pull the fabric toward you so the edge is straight, but a pleat forms to the left; continue stitching

64. Securing Seam Ends Serger stitches unravel if not secured
If seams are crossed by other stitching, ends are secured, otherwise you need to secure the ends
Ways to secure seam ends
Knot the thread chain
Bury the chain
Secure the threads while stitching
Use liquid seam sealant
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65. Securing Seam Ends To “bury the chain”
after stitching, pull chain to smooth it out
2. thread it through a large- eyed needle or loop turner and run it under 1 to 2 inches of overlocked stitches
3. trim excess thread

66. Stabilizing Seams
Garment seams stitched with a serger may require stabilizing
Shoulder and neckline seams, front areas, and crotch seams are often stabilized
One method is to use a row of straight stitching along the seam line
Another method is to serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon

67. Removing Seams Serger stitches can be easily ripped out
Use a seam ripper or sharp scissors
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68. Methods for Removing Seams
Two-thread overlock—slide a seam ripper or scissors under stitches; pull out cut threads
Three-thread overlock—cut loops every three or four stitches; pull the needle thread and the stitches will come undone
Two-thread double chain stitch—cut needle thread at end of seam; pull looper thread and the stitches will come undone

69. Perform routine care of the serger.
Objective
Perform routine care of the serger.

70. Serger Care
The serger will operate effectively with proper maintenance
Regularly clean the machine and oil with sewing machine oil as specified by the manufacturer
Use a soft brush to remove the lint from the knife area
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71. Serger Care Replace needles if stitches are not forming properly
Replace blades when fabric is not cut smoothly

72. Name the three operations sergers can perform in one step.
join two layers of fabric to form a seam, trim away extra seam allowance width, and overcast (finish) the fabric edges
2. _____ in sergers replace the _____ in regular sewing machines that form the stitches.
Loopers; bobbin
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73. 3. Which serger stitch is used to create a very narrow hem?
rolled edge stitch
4. Which serger stitch is considered the core stitch because it can stitch, trim, and overedge a seam in one operation?
overlock stitch
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74. Name three advantages in using special serger thread when using a serger.
(Name three) fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk, strength, cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing, larger quantities, economy
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75. What is chaining off and when is it done?
serging a 2- to 3-inch thread chain while holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot; done before placing fabric in front of presser foot
Name the three methods of using a serger in clothing construction.
one-step method, edge finish method, narrow double-stitched seam method
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76. 8. Why is it important to check the fit before you sew when using a serger?
once a seam is stitched, the allowance is trimmed away, making it impossible to alter seams
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77. 9. Describe the flat method of construction and give an example.
sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the round; example—finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, hems before serging underarm and side seams
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78. Name four ways to secure seam ends.
knot the thread chain, bury the chain, secure the threads while stitching, use liquid seam sealant
Name two ways to stabilize a serged seam.
use a row of straight stitching along the seam line; serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon 78

79. chaining off. Serging off the edge of the fabric until a 2- to 3-inch thread chain forms.
chain stitch. A serger stitch that does not overlock the edge of the fabric, but functions as a standard straight stitch when the cutting knives are disengaged.
cone adapter. A device that allows a cone of thread to be used on a spool pin.

80. cones. Large spools of thread.
continuous overcasting technique. Lining up several garment sections so the stitching is not broken as you move from the edge of one garment section to the next.
cover stitch. A serger stitch used mainly for hemming, producing two or three parallel rows of topstitching on one side.

81. flatlock stitch. A two-thread stitch that uses one needle and one looper to join a seam.
flat method of construction. Serging flat pieces together rather than pieces in the round.
loopers. The parts of the serger that form the stitch.

82. mock flat-felled seam. A seam formed by using both the sewing machine and the serger. Topstitching completes the seam on the outside of the garment.
narrow double-stitched seam. After stitching garment seams together on the sewing machine, they are serged together, placing the needle 1/8 inch from the stitching line.

83. overedge stitch. A two-thread stitch used solely as an edge finish on garments.
overlock stitch. A three-, four-, or five-thread serger stitch that is useful for seaming purposes.
rolled edge stitch. A two- or three-thread serger stitch that produces a rolled hem.

84. sergers. Machines that provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments. These machines join two layers of fabric to form a seam, trim away extra seam allowance width, and overcast the fabric edges all in one step. Also called overlock or overedge machines.

85. spool cap. A device placed over the thread spool to provide even feeding of thread to the serger.
stabilizing. Adding extra strength to seams and areas that receive stress during wearing.
thread net. A device that helps prevent thread tangling.