1. ABA Field Archery Instructor
Equipment Basics

2. Compound Bows

3. Compound Bows
These bows are designed to draw back to a specific point only, and need to be fitted to the archer.
The main advantage of a compound bow is you draw more weight, but hold a lot less weight at anchor.

4. Compound Bow Parts
Axle to axle
Solo Cam
Dual Cam

5. Compound Bows: General
Always read the manual for the specific bow
Most are available from the Internet.

6. Compound Bows: General
Check strings, cables and servings for damage
Check the axles and E-clips
Check the brace height and axle to axle are within bow specifications
Check zero tiller
Distance from the top limb to the string equals the distance from the bottom limb to the string.
Check the limbs are straight and not damaged
Give special attention to the pivot points and axle holes of the limb.

7. Compound Bows: Limbs and Cams
Adjust the draw length to suit the archer
Needs to be done by an experienced person
Usually requires new modules or rotation of the module module depending on the bow
Adjust the draw weight to suit the archer
Always adjust the limb bolts evenly from the fully wound in position
Compounds perform best at their peak weight with the limbs fully wound in
Back the limb bolts off ¼ turn from peak to prevent damage to the limbs.

8. Strings and Cables Made from many different materials
Dacron, Fast Flight, Dyneema, Spectra, Dynaflight
Use the recommended materials for the strings and cables for the specific bow
String material manufacturers have recommendations for string materials, strands and serving materials.
See for example

9. Servings
Centre servings and end (loop) servings

10. Compound Bows: Nocking Point
Nocking point ties are preferable
But brass locaters work as well
Brass locaters are good when setting up and tuning a bow for the first time since they can be easily moved. Once the correct position is found they can be replaced with nock ties.

11. Compound Bows: Nocking Point
Set the nocking point approximately 1/16” - 1/8” above horizontal using a bow square.
Check later with arrow flight.

12. Compound Bows: Nocking Point
Make sure there is room for the nock to move up and down between the top and bottom nock ties
Make sure the arrow is free when the string is rotated
May need to use different thickness serving thread to reduce or increase the diameter of the serving
Dental floss can be used to increase the diameter of the serving.

13. Compound Bows: Nocking Point
Single nock ties vs double nock ties
Personal preference
If double nock ties, fewer ties on top more on bottom
Bottom: 6-8 under over knots underneath with 4-6 under-over knots over them
Top: 3 under over knots underneath with 2 under-over knots over them.

14. Compound Bows: D loop
The top and bottom of the loop should come from different sides of the string to allow for the direction of twist caused by the release aid.

15. Compound Bows: D loop Loop typically ½ inch to ¾ inch long
Initially tie loop material flat to the string
Use D loop pliers to open up the loop and tighten on the string to prevent rotation
Ordinary small pointy nose pliers also work well.

16. Tying a D-Loop

17. Compound Bows: D loop D loop and nocking point set ups
Top and bottom nock ties and D loop around both
Bottom nock tie only with the D loop from below the nocking point and forming the top nock locator
D loop below the nock.

18. Compound Bows: Peep Sights

19. Compound Bows: Peep Sights
Most peep sights need to be fitted into the string and require a bow press
Set the peep sight so that the head is maintained within the alignment of the rest of the body at full draw.

20. Compound Bows: Peep Sight
Tie it in

21. Compound Bows: Peep Sight
The peep sight hole should be such that the circular housing of the sight can be seen through the peep sight
May need different size holes for outdoor and indoor shooting
There are peep sights with variable hole size inserts available.

22. Stabilisers Bows tend to twist left or right when released
Stabilisers and V bars are designed to reduce the twisting motion
V bars reduce tilting
Stabilisers come in all sorts of lengths and designs.

23. Stabilisers: Freestyle set up
Scope Sight
Stabiliser
V bar

24. Stabilisers: Bowhunter set up
Pin Sight
Short Stabiliser

25. Recurve Bows and Longbows

26. Recurve Bows and Longbows

27. Recurve Bows and Longbows
Choose the bow length and draw weight to suit the archer
Typically 66” to 68” for average archer
Longer bows shoot more slowly but shorter bows may be harder to draw back
Shorter bows are likely to cause finger pinch
Start with a lighter draw weight to allow anchoring (snap shooting is not very accurate)
It should just feel good (Try several before buying).

28. Recurve Bows and Longbows
These two bows might have the same overall length but they have very different riser and limb lengths.

29. Recurve Bows: Stringing
Best done with a bow stringer
Several ways without but these risk damage to the limbs.

30. Recurve Bows: Unstringing
Best to use a bow stringer
There are other methods.

31. Recurve Bows: General Check the limbs are straight and not damaged
Line up the string and limb pocket bolts and check straightness
Check the string and servings for any fraying.

32. Recurve Bows: Nocking Point
Set the nocking point approximately ¼”- ½” above horizontal.
Use a brass nocking point initially to allow easy adjustment
Replace with ties.

33. Recurve Bows: Nocking Point
Nocking point ties are preferable
Usually a single nocking point below the arrow
Make sure the arrow is free when the string is rotated
May need to use different serving thread sizes or dental floss.

34. Recurve Bows: Tiller
On one-piece and simple take-down bows the tiller cannot be adjusted
More advanced recurves with limb bolts allow adjustment of the tiller
Set positive tiller, ~1/8” by adjusting the limb bolts
i.e. distance from the top limb to the string is 1/8” more than the distance from the bottom limb to the string
Recheck the brace height.

35. Recurve Bows and Longbows: Brace Height
Check the brace height is within 7 ½” to 9”
Check the manual
For most recurve bows and longbows, the brace height can be adjusted by up to ½” in either direction by twisting or un-twisting the bow string.

36. Recurve Bows and Longbows: Setting Brace Height
Two methods but essentially aim to do the same thing.
Method 1
Start with the brace height in the middle of the recommended range, measure and record it.
Shoot 8-10 arrows and note the noise and vibration.
Then add 2-3 twists (increases the brace height) shoot arrows again and note the noise and vibration
Remove 4-6 twists shoot 8-10 arrows (decreases the brace height)
Repeat the process of raising and lowering the brace height until you find the brace height that results in the least noise and vibration.

37. Recurve Bows and Longbows: Setting Brace Height
Method 2
Set the brace height at the highest recommended for the bow
Shoot 8-10 arrows and note the noise and vibration
Remove 2-3 twists and shoot some more arrows
Repeat until you find the position with the least noise and vibration
A better way to determine the best brace height is to watch for best arrow flight but this requires someone with experience to watch the arrows.

38. Recurve Bows and Longbows
Measure the tip to tip distance occasionally to keep an eye on string stretch.

39. Arrows

40. Arrows
Made of wood, aluminium, carbon or a combination of aluminium and carbon
Aluminium arrows
Numbers and letters e.g. 1916
19 refers to outside diameter in 64ths inch
16 refers to wall thickness in 1000ths inch
Carbon arrows
Numbers e.g. 500 or 340
Refers to how much the arrow bends when it is weighted in the middle with a standard weight
The smaller the number the stiffer the arrow.

41. Draw Length and Arrow Length
These can be quite confusing concepts
Arrow length
Simply the measured length from the bottom of the nock groove to the end of the shaft not including the tip.

42. Correct Arrow Length
Because arrows can be all sorts of lengths, arrow makers have standardised

43. Draw Length
Draw length

44. Arrows Use arrow charts to choose the correct spine
Use a point weight in the recommended range
Slightly heavier may be better for longer shots
1o-2o angle on straight vanes
Position vanes 1.5 to 2.5 cm from base of the nock
Finger shooters need to leave room for the fingers
Personal preference
Check straightness regularly

45. Arrows: Checking Straightness
Two methods
Vertical spin on the palm of the hand
The arrow should spin without “wobbling”.

46. Arrows: Checking Straightness
Horizontal spin over the fingers
The arrow should spin without “wobbling”.

47. Arrows: Fletching
Usually consists of 3 feathers or plastic vanes set at 120o to each other
Hen and cock (index) vanes.
Hen
Cock or Index

48. Arrows: Fletching Vane selection
Compound target and field: Short vanes ( ”)
Fingers: slightly longer vanes
Hunting: Long vanes up to 3”to suit heavy arrows and broadheads
Personal choice and what works best for you
Feathers are generally used for longbows since there is no arrow rest for clearance.

49. Arrows Points Many different types Personal preference
Screw in points allow fitting of broad heads or field points.

50. Arrow Rests
Long bows and traditional recurve bows shoot “off the shelf”
English longbows shoot off the archers hand
Other bows have an arrow rest.

51. Arrow Rests Finger shooters Release aid shooters
Rests are generally side open rests
Release aid shooters
Generally top open rests.

52. Types of Arrow Rests
Compound bows

53. Types of Arrow Rests
Recurve bows and compound fingers

54. Compound Finger Shooter Rest

55. Arrow Rests
Set the rest to align the arrow on centre shot (release aid shooters)
~18 to 20 mm from the riser
Set the rest to align the arrow outside centre shot (recurve and compound finger shooters).

56. Setting Rest Height and Angle
Set the rest angle 35o to 37o
An old school protractor works well
Set the end of the rest approximately level with the middle of the berger hole or back a bit
Set the rest height so that the middle of the arrow aligns with the middle of berger hole or a little lower.

57. Setting Rest Height and Angle

58. Pin Sights Cannot be adjusted during competition.
Set the pins directly above the arrow rest centre
Set the pins for fixed distances
e.g. 20, 30, 40, 50 m or 20, 30, 36, 42, 47 m
Fine adjustment can be difficult
Cannot be adjusted during competition.

59. Scope Sights Allows very fine adjustment of sight position
Can be adjusted during competition
Provides some magnification of the target
Typically use 2x and 4x. 6x magnifies normal hand shake and can be distracting.

60. Sight Adjustment Follow the arrow
If the arrows hit left, move the sight to the left
If the arrows hit right, move the sight to the right
If the arrows hit low, move the sight down
If the arrows hit high, move the sight up.

61. Release Aids Used to make the release of the bow string quicker
Reduces the amount of torque (twist) put onto the bow string from the archer's fingers.

62. Release Aids Three main types Thumb switch Caliper or wrist
Back tension.

63. Using a Release Aid Set the spring tension relatively high
No “hair triggers” in archery
Draw the bow with the finger or thumb well away from the “trigger”
Only place the thumb or finger on the trigger once anchoring is completed
Be careful with “back-tension” releases
Not really recommended for beginners.

64. Using a Release Aid There are various ways to activate a release aid
Right from the start, new archers should be taught not to tap or hit the trigger but rather to gently squeeeeze the trigger to bring about a “surprise” release.
i.e. the archer doesn’t know exactly when the release will occur!

65. Shooting with New Equipment
With any new equipment start shooting at 5m
At least one death has been caused by someone commencing shooting with new equipment at their usual distance and missing the target and hitting a person instead.