1. Waves and Beaches
Movement of air (disturbing force) across the ocean causes waves to form
Splash waves can be generated by coastal landslides or icebergs calving
Seismic sea waves or Tsunamis can be formed by underwater avalanches, volcanic eruptions, or fault slippage
Tides are a vast, low, predictable wave created by the sun and moon and spin of the earth
Waves can also be created by ships creating a wake

2. Wave Properties
Ocean waves are Orbital waves which involves components of both longitudinal and transverse waves
Also known as body waves because energy is transferred through a body of matter
Crest- high part of the wave
Trough- low part of the wave
Still water level- half way between crest and trough

3. Wave Properties cont.
Wave Height- measured top of crest to bottom of trough
Wave Length- measured crest to crest or trough to trough
Wave period- time it takes one wavelength to pass a point, typical between 6 and 16 sec.
Frequency- number of crests passing a fixed point per unit of time

4. Water Properties cont.
Waves break when steepness exceeds 1:7 ratio, a wave 7 meters long can only be 1 meter high or it breaks, near shore or open ocean,
Wave Base- Point at which the circular orbital motion dies out with depth ( surge ) usually ½ wavelength
Floating oil rigs, Bridges are designed so that most of their mass is below the wave base

5. Wave Properties cont. Energy in a wave determined by:
Wind speed- mph or kph
Fetch- distance wind blows, 100s-1000s of miles
Duration- time wind blows,hours- days
10% of the waves in a fully developed sea will be twice the average height
Swell- waves moved out of the storm area move faster than the wind, steepness decreases become long crested waves, travel great distances

6. Wave Properties cont.
The circular orbit in a wave is slower in the bottom half or trough than the top crest half so a floating object does not return to its exact spot, moves slightly forward (Wave Drift )
Deep water waves are faster than shallow water waves which drag on the ocean bottom and slow down
The longer the wavelength the faster the wave

9. Breaking Waves
Waves entering shallow water drag their base on the bottom and slow, waves move closer and wavelength decreases, wave height increases
When the front bottom of the wave touches the ocean bottom and stops, the Back part of the wave runs up over the front increasing height and falls foreward
Spilling Breakers- slower waves from dragging on bottom
Plunging Breakers-fast waves going from deep to shallow water suddenly

13. PIPELINE

14. MAVERICKS

15. RINCON California Wave diffraction

16. Reflection of Waves off the Sea wall

17. Newport Beach Inlet

18. The Wedge

19. The Wedge

20. The wedge

21. The Wedge

22. Rogue Waves
Massive solitary waves can occur when normal ocean waves are not large
In a 6.5 ft sea a 65 ft wave may appear
1 wave in 23 twice average height
1 in 1175 will be 3 times average
1 in 300,000 will be 4 times average
Probably caused by constructive wave interference, 2 or more waves combining
10 large ships lost every year, 1000 total yearly

23. USS Bennington

24. Hurricane Damage USS Bennington

25. USS Bennington

26. USS Ramapo

27. Bayou Renaissance Man, Algulhas Current

28. Bayou Renaissance Man

29. Norwegian Dream

30. Rogue Wave in Mediterrean

31. Algulhas Current Rogue Waves
Heading south along East coast of Africa, encountered multiple large waves

32. Algulhas Current Rogue Waves

33. Life Boat

34. Giant Waves
Tsunamis are created by Fault movement of the Earths crust with vertical displacement
Tsunami wavelength can exceed 125 miles and can move across open ocean at 435 mph
Wave height in open water may be 1.6 feet but when they reach shallow water the wave piles up
Wave appears as a surge of water up onto the land but does not form a huge breaking wave on the beach

35. Lituya Bay Alaska 1740 Ft Splash wave

36. Lituya Bay Alaska

37. Lituya Bay Alaska

38. Tsunami

39. Tsunami

40. Tsunami

41. Krakatoa Volcanic Eruption

42. Giant Waves
Tsunami crated by the explosion of a volcanic island in the Sunda Straight between Sumatra and Java
A wave 116 ft high drowned over 1000 villages and killing 36,000 people
3 large waves followed the first colossal wave

44. Krakatoa Tsunami 30 meters

45. Light House, Scotch Cap Alaska

46. Light House, Scotch Cap Alaska

47. Light House After Tsunami

48. Tsunami, Scotch Cap, Alaska
Earth Quake measuring 7.3 occurred off Aleutian Islands
Light house with foundation 46 ft above sea level was destroyed
Top of the cliff 103 feet above sea level was damaged
Wave estimated to be 118 ft high
Also hit Hilo Hawaii 1850 miles away with a 55 ft high wave, 25 million in damage

49. Hurricane Storm Surges

50. Hurricane Sandy Storm Surge

51. Hurricane Camile 24 Ft Storm Surge

52. Ship Hull Markings

53. Ship Hull Markings

54. Coast Guard Rescue Boat

55. Break Walls with Jacks

56. Break walls

57. Break wall, Maldives

58. Break wall, England

59. Redondo Harbor Break wall, Calif

60. Break Wall after storm