1. Chapter 5
Developing a Negative

2. Negative to Positive Process
35mm Negative
8 X 10 Print

3. Negative to Positive-Workflow
1. Chose appropriate film and ISO setting
2. Expose the film to ensure shadow detail
3. Develop the film for optimal highlight detail
4. Carefully process, wash, dry, and sleeve film
POSITIVE (PRINTS)
1. Contact negatives for a positive print reference
2. Carefully select negatives that are in focus, have detail in shadows and highlights
3. Enlarge negatives using exposure to control highlights,
4. Use enlarger filtration to control shadows and contrast.

4. The Negative: Step # 1 Choose a film speed
Choice of sensitivity
100 is daylight film
800 more sensitive for very low light
Relationship to grain
100 very little grain-fine detail
800 lots of grain-less fine detail
ISO changes meter reading

5. The Negative: Step #2 Expose for shadow detail
To get good detail in your shadows, which is very desirable, we need to be sure we meter those shadows. That means the shadow would be medium gray. We want the shadows, so me can step down 1 or 2 stops. That is, if our meter shows shutter between 60 and 125 then take the This allows a little less light to the film and will darken However, to get the shadows looking like shadows,

6. Exposure for the shadows
Almost all detail in the darker, or shadow areas of the print, is controlled by the amount of exposure given to the negative.
Detail in the highlights, although effected by exposure, can also be easily controlled by altering film development.
This ability to control shadows and highlights allows tone and contrast control.

7. Exposure
To get a rich image with realistic tones, dark but detailed shadows, and bright, delicate highlights, you need to expose your film correctly

8. Exposure
The ability to produce a fine print is first determined by sufficient exposure to render detail in the shadow areas of the print.

9. A correct exposure on negative film

10. Overexposed Too much light has reached the film
Highlights are blocked up by too much density and will print pure white after losing important details
Contrast level will be too high.

11. Underexposed Not enough light has reached the film
Shadow areas are void of detail because insufficient density was rendered
Print will be very low in contrast, visible grain will increase, shadows lifeless

12. Correct Exposure Overexposed Underexposed Thumbnail Light
Shutter too slow or
f/stop too large
Shutter too fast or
f/stop too small
When the shutter is faster, less light hits the film and the negative is underexposed. When the shutter is open longer that 18% gray, the
Overexposed
Thumbnail Light
Print need more time
Underexposed
Thumbnail Dark
Print needs less time
Correct

13. When exposed correctly, contact sheet looks like this

14. Film Curve - reciprocity

15. Reciprocity Failure
Films respond predictably to exposure through a wide range of shutter speeds.
Long exposures or extremely short exposures cause the film to fail to respond as calculated.
If the exposure is 1 second give it 2 or 4 or more!!!!

16. The Zone System X IX VIII VII VI V IV III II I
The zero here is middle or 18% gray. II I

17. Zone System Exposure

18. How film responds to light
Recording an image on film involves a reaction between light and silver halide crystals.
A photo-chemical reaction is needed to reveal the latent image.

19. The Negative: Step #3 Developing the film
Highlight detail is controlled primarily by the development. (assuming correct exposure)
Control is accomplished by
Time
Temperature
Agitation (of the film during development)
Dilution of the chemistry

20. Black and white film layers
Surface
Emulsion
Adhesive
Film base
Anti-halation coating

21. Silver Halide Crystals
Crystal are spread through the gelatin of the film emulsion.
They are a compound of silver plus a halogen such as bromine, iodine or chlorine.
Charged silver ions are effected by light and combine with impurities within the crystal to build areas of density.

22. Black and White Development
Millions of the crystals are exposed converting the silver metal into areas of density where light strikes the film.
In areas where no light strikes the film there is no silver density. In other areas there is a mixture of heavy and light density creating mid-tones.
Development is the chemical process of building up this density.

23. Processing

24. Processing Steps Pre wash Saturate film emulsion
Development Converts latent image
Stop Arrest the development
Fixer Dissolves silver halide crystals
Clearing Washing aid to remove fixer
Wash Remove all residue
Wetting agent Prevent water spots
Dry Clean dust free slow drying time

25. Step 1 Look for a button on the bottom of your camera
Remove the film from your camera
Look for a button on the bottom of your camera
Hold button while winding until no tension in the winder
Pull the winder and back should pop up
Remove film
Either replace the film or close the back of the camera

28. Loading the film Light proof bag
You will need
Light proof bag
Under shelf along wall with refrigerator
Silver on the outside
Double zipper
Bottle opener
Scissors
Tank and reel
Film cartridge

31. What’s next Use bottle cap opener to open end of film cartridge
In a bag
Use bottle cap opener to open end of film cartridge
Remove film from cartridge
Cut film leader and attach to inside of steel reel
Roll onto reel
Place reel into steel container
Put on the plastic cap
Remove from bag

33. Chemicals to process film
The first thing is to check the time and temperature chart. That is essential to a good development.
Developer
½ developer and ½ water
Stop bath
Water
Fixer
Fill with fixer only, don’t dilute
10 minute wash
Wetting agent
Best to use distilled water

34. Dry film
20 minutes in dryer or 1 hour in box
Cut film
5 prints wide
Put into archive sleeve

35. Developer D-76
This is a time and temperature chart. They are on the wall in room 9.
Arista 100 ISO 35mm
film
Water Temp
65 degrees
68 degrees
70 degrees
72 degrees
75 degrees
Normal
9 1/2 min.
8 1/2 min.
7 1/2 min.
7 min.
6 min.

36. What happens? Developer
Free metallic silver from the emulsion’s exposed crystals to form an image
Metallic silver forms the dark part of the image
Called silver halides
At this point you can see the latent image on the film if you opened the canister. However, DON’T do that. It will ruin your negative.

37. After stop bath
Fixer
Silver halides will continue to turn dark if exposed to light
Fixer stops this process by dissolving the crystals
5 minutes to fix
Too much longer and image will bleach
Too short or weak fixer the image will get darker when exposed to light

38. Develop too long Highlights become more dense. Increase in contrast.
The image
Highlights become more dense. Increase in contrast.
Later you can use this to create a different print.
Temperature affects outcome
See chart
Too cold the developer works poorly
Too hot the gelatin can separate from the film

39. Agitation
Gently agitation moves fresh chemicals over the film/emulsion
Too little may cause chemicals to stop working
Too little or too strong can cause uneven development
Agitate 5 out of every 30 seconds
In more than 1 direction.
Put canister down in between agitations.

40. After fixing Film must be thoroughly washed.
Remaining silver will darken/stain the film

41. Best Outcome When properly exposed and correctly developed, film…
Makes printing/scanning much easier
Begin by following the manufacturer’s recommendations
Later you can may adjust exposure and developing

42. Exposure (more later)
When there is no single subject and if you don’t have a gray card, expose for the shadows where you want detail. (develop for the highlights).
In every case expose for the subject!
Developing times have little effect on shadows
Developing times have a great effect on the highlights
For us…take shadows into account when setting your exposure if you want detail in the shadows
Follow the directions (for now)when developing

43. Last Step
The final step is making a contact sheet to see how your negatives look as thumbnails
If you exposed each frame correctly, each thumbnail will appear clearly, without enhancement.
First run a test strip on your archival sheet.
Find the correct exposure time for your contact sheet
Develop your contact sheet

45. Quiz review
1st thing you need when you are going to develop you film is the time and temperature chart.
You can first see an image when in the developer, even though you won’t see it until the whole process is done.
You can look at your film AFTER the fixer step.

46. More Quiz Review Density is a negative or print is
The amount of silver built up on the surface
The overall lightness and darkness of either the print or negative
Is controlled by the exposure

47. Review Write the full stop shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/1000 sec.
Which end is more light? Less light?

48. Next Step Today Watch video on film development
Develop your own film-if you are ready.