1. Chapter 3
Common Chemicals

2. Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

3. Source: http://research.unc.edu/endeavors/spr2005/soap.php
Soap
Fat + Base
Mode of Action
One end = polar, dissolve in water
Other end = non-polar, dissolve in oil
Surfactant = stabilize suspension of non-polar oil in water
In hard water leaves mineral deposits
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4. Soap Dissected Sodium tallowate: soap made from animal fat
Ingredients: sodium tallowate, palm kernelate, aqua, parfum, stearic acid, glycerin, sodium chloride, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium etidronate, FD&C Blue No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5.
Sodium tallowate: soap made from animal fat
Palm kernelate: soap made from palm kernel oil
Aqua: water
Parfum: mixture of natural and synthetic fragrances
Stearic acid: fatty acid, improve soap texture
Glycerin: moisturizer, keep soap from drying out
Sodium chloride: improve soap texture
Tetrasodium EDTA: chelating agent, prevent soap scum
Tetrasodium etidronate: preservative
FD&C Blue No. 4 and Yellow No. 5: artificial colors

5. Detergents Synthetic Contents Non-biodegradable detergents banned
No mineral deposits, even in hard water
Contents
Synthetic surfactant
Examples: Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sodium laryl/laureth sulfate, benzalkonium chloride
Stabilizers
Fragrance

6. Softeners & Bleaches Fabric Softeners Bleaches
Layer on clothes 1 molecule thick
Lubrication
Electrically conductive (cancel out static electricity)
Bleaches
Sodium hypochlorite (NaClO)
Oxidation of color molecules in stains
Brighteners (Color-safe “bleach”)
reflect blue light, clothes look white

7. Source: www.visitwaupaca.com
Cleaning Products
Acids
Toilet bowl cleaner (HCl, citric acid)
Cleaners containing vinegar
Bases
Oven cleaner
Drain cleaner
Glass cleaner (ammonia)
Bleach
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8. Source: http://www.lyndhurstnaturals.com/Naturals2.aspx
Cosmetics: Lotions
Emollients: soften the skin by coating and protecting
Moisturizer: form a physical barrier to hinder evaporation
Sunscreens
Humectants: hold water by hydrogen bonding
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9. Lotions Dissected Aqua: water, adds moisture directly to skin
Glycerin: moisturizer, softener
Cetearyl alcohol: emollient, emulsifier, stabilizer
Petrolatum: moisturizer, emollient
Mineral oil: moisturizer
Ceteareth-20: emulsifier, surfactant
Dimethicone: moisturizer, anti-foaming agent
Carbomer: emulsion stabilizer
Methylparaben: preservative
Sodium Hydroxide: pH adjuster
Titanium dioxide: white colorant, coverage, reflectant
Octyl dimethyl PABA: UV absorber

10. Images source: www.wikipedia.com
Sun Protection
Ultraviolet light
3 “near UV” wavelength ranges
Therapeutic uses
Psoriasis, vitiligo, eczema
Cancer treatment (phototherapy)
Dangers
DNA damage
Cancer
Ageing
Images source:

11. Sun Protection Cosmetics Body’s defenses Sunscreens Sunblocks SPF
During sun exposure
After sun exposure
Image source:

12. Cosmetics: Other Skin Care
Exfoliant: remove surface skin cells
Chemical
Mechanical
Astringent: constrict pore openings
Antiperspirant: retard perspiration
Complexes of aluminum and zirconium
Acne
Salicylic acid, triclosan, benzoyl peroxide: antibiotics, can be very drying
Anti-aging
Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids: chemical exfoliants

13. Cosmetics: Makeup Mascara: oils, waxes, colors, thickeners
Lipstick: oils, waxes, colors, moisturizers, often with UV protection
Powders: pigment, binders, mineral powders (aluminum, titanium, zinc)
Foundation: oils, colors, pH balancers, emulsifiers, surfactants
All have preservatives!
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14. Source: http://www.webhealthcenter.com/general/..%5Cimages%5Coral1.gif
Oral Care
Toothpaste
Sodium dodecyl (laurel) sulfate: detergent
Artificial sweeteners, flavors
Fluoride
Abrasive
Mouthwash
Antimicrobials
Surfactants
fluoride
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15. Source: http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_73.htm
Hair Care
Composition of hair
Protein
Shape is determined by hydrogen bonds, salt bridges and disulfide bonds
Only root of hair is alive: all visible hair is dead
Slightly acidic
Hair damage: brushing/combing, blow drying, environmental attack, chemical damage
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16. Hair Care: Hair Products
Shampoo
Mild detergent (surfactant)
Most are gentle enough to not harm hair structure
Conditioner
Coats the hair shaft with moisturizers
Dimethicone, silk proteins, collagen: smooth hair shaft
Hair care myths and facts

17. Hair Care: Hair Products
Hairspray
Semisolid organic polymers that form sticky resin on hair
Dissolved in a solvent that evaporates
Perms
Reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds in hair
Oxidizing agent allows bonds to reform with hair in a new shape
Depilatories
Strongly basic—destroy peptide bonds in hair & skin
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18. Hair Care: Hair Products
Hair dyes
Hair is naturally colored by melanins
Coloring: benzene-amine compounds soak into hair shaft
Bleaching: hydrogen peroxide oxidizes natural pigments (melanins) into colorless products
Avoid contact with skin!
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19. Source: http://www.rohmhaas.com/images/2ndlevel/i_percare.jpg
You The Consumer
Types of products are often the same!
Beware of outrageous claims
Beware of unnecessarily expensive products
Read the ingredients and compare
Be a well-informed consumer
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