1. How not to be, or get to be; GROSS!

2. Water, Water, Everywhere!

3. Is it safe to drink?

4. How much water? You will use about a gallon a day
In general you will need a liter of water for every 4 to 5 miles (6.5 to 8 km) of hiking.
One liter of water weighs 1 kg so make the calculation.
That’s about 2.2 pounds per liter.

6. If you think that putting a Micropur tablet in a bottle of water allows you to drink any water, you are wrong.
If you think that filtering polluted water with the latest greatest hiking water filter will prevent you from being sick, you are wrong again.
When we buy a water purification system, we easily have the impression we will be protected against all contaminants – especially when it is an expensive one. The reality is very different.

7. Filters What are you filtering out? Viruses Bacteria
Other Micro-Organisms
Mud, Leaves, and Fish
Chemicals
Solids should be pre-filtered or settled out

8. Where to get water As CLEAR as possible Upstream of human activity
Far from polluting activities
Not stagnant
Not cloudy or muddy
Oxygenated

9. Boiling

10. Boiling Kills viruses and Bacteria (and fish)
Does NOT remove solids or chemicals
(or cooked fish!)

11. How Long, How Hot?
At sea level, the water boils at 100°C. The majority of biological contaminants are killed in less than a minute at this temperature.
Higher elevation = longer time
For the same result, it is necessary that the boiling lasts a few minutes when the water is at 85°C (boiling temperature of water at 4500 m or 14,700 ft of altitude) (East Buttress in Alaska Range)
Approximately 30 minutes when the water is at 70°C (boiling temperature of water on the summit of Everest).

12. Water Filters

13. Water Filters Wide variety of types and performances
Most have some kind of membrane or cartridge the water must be forced through.
Bigger pore size = Higher Flow = Lower quality of water produced
Smaller pore size = slower flow = Higher quality of water produced

14. Water passes through small size pores which retain the microorganisms and particles – exactly like a sieve to drain pasta.

15. Pore Size Matters Smaller pore size = less critters in your water
Conventional filters of 0.1 to 0.3 microns eliminates most of the bacteria and micro-organisms
Does not eliminate most viruses unless pore size is 15 nanometers (.015 microns) or smaller.

16. Most filters do NOT remove viruses and chemicals

17. Multi Filters
Some filters combine a filter for critters with a charcoal filter to remove many (but not all) chemicals
Some filters also use silver ions to kill viruses

18. Ultraviolet Ultraviolet filters like Steri-Pen use ultraviolet
rays to burn out the DNA
in the viruses and
bacteria so they cannot
reproduce
Requires batteries
Does not remove chemicals

19. Chemical Sanitizers Do not remove chemicals Do not remove solids
Do kill most viruses and bacteria
Require time to work
Require lots more time in cold water
Cloudy water or sediment requires more chemicals than clear water

20. Types of Sanitizers Old fashioned Clorox (Sodium Hypochlorite)
Iodine (Polar-Pure etc.)
Modern tablets
MicroPure etc.
(Chlorine Dioxide)

21. Combinations Filter first, then add chemical sanitizers
Boil and Filter with Activated Charcoal
If using a charcoal or activated carbon filter, adding chemicals before filtering will kill the carbons effectiveness and it will need replacing

22. Staying Safe and Happy Plan Ahead!
Checking on local conditions includes water!
Where is drinking water located?
What contaminants can you expect?

23. What’s Upstream?

24. A few tips in no particular order to finish:
Read the instructions! Each system is different.
Pay attention to the neck and cap of the containers. Microorganisms may be hiding there. Clean them with purified water.
It is always handy to have two containers minimum, either for decanting, pre-filtering or purifying the water.
Have you thought about a backup solution?

25. Cartridge Pump Filter

26. Gravity Fed

27. Gravity Fed

28. Suction Straws

29. Squeeze bag

30. Ultraviolet