1. THE NAIL AND IT’S STRUCTURE AND GROWTH

2. WHY AS A COSMETOLOGIST DO I HAVE TO KNOW THE STRUCTURE AND GROWTH OF THE NAIL?
That’s a very good question. The fact is that the structure and growth of the nail is certainly not the most glamorous portion of your training in cosmetology, but it could be one of the most essential. More infections are spread through the nails and hands than any other area of the body. To give clients professional and responsible service, you must learn about the structure and function of the nail.

3. You must know when it is safe to work on a client and when they must be referred to a doctor. As a Cosmetologist you should learn about the structure and growth of the nail since it is extremely relevant to your future success and well-being as a professional. Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding of nail structure and growth because:
Understanding the structure and growth of natural nails allows you to expertly groom, strengthen, and beautify nails.
It is important to know the difference between the cuticle and the eponychium before performing nail services.

4. Understanding the structure and growth cycles of the natural nail will prepare you for more advanced nail services.’
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE NAIL, ITS STRUCTURE, AND GROWTH IN ORDER TO PROVIDE QUALITY MANICURING AND PEDICURING SERVICES?
As a Cosmetologist you will need to recognize that the condition of the nail may actually reflect the general health of the whole body. You need to understand the structure of the nail and also the structures surrounding the nail. Once you understand how the nail grows, you will be better

5. Equipped to recognize the malformations, disorders, and irregularities that your clients may bring to the salon. When you’ve gained that knowledge, you can proceed confidently with appropriate nail services knowing that you and your client are not at risk.
THE NATURAL NAIL
The natural nail, also known as ONYX is the hard protective plate composed mainly of keratin, the same fibrous protein found in skin and hair. The natural nail is located at the end of the finger or toe. It is an appendage of the skin and part of the integumentary system.

6. Which is made up of the skin and its various organs
Which is made up of the skin and its various organs. Nail plates protect the tips of the fingers and toes, and their appearance can reflect general health of the body.
A normal healthy nail is firm but flexible. The surface is shiny, smooth, and unspotted with no wavy ridges, pits, or splits. It also is whitish and translucent in appearance, with the pinkish color or the nail bed showing through. A healthy nail may look dry and hard, but its water content is actually between 15 and 25%. Water content affect the nail’s flexibility, the lower the water content the more rigid the nail becomes.

7. NAIL STRUCTURE/ANATOMY
The nail consist of three parts: the nail body or plate, nail root, and free edge.
The nail body or plate, is the visible portion of the nail that rests upon, and is attached to the nail bed. The nail body extends from the root to the free edge. It is the hardened keratin plate that sits on and covers the nail bed. It is relatively porous and will allow water to pass through it. It is formed by matrix cells. It appears to be one piece, but is actually constructed of about 100 layers of nail cells. Constructed of dead cells requiring no oxygen.

8. The nail root is at the base of the nail and is embedded underneath the skin. It is attached to an actively growing tissue known as the matrix.
The free edge is the end portion of the nail plate that extends from the tip of the finger or toe.
The nail bed is the living portion of the skin upon which the nail body rests. It is pinkish in color and It has many blood vessels that provide nourishment necessary for continued growth of the nail, also supplied with and abundance of nerves. It is attached to the plate by a thin layer of tissue called the bed epithelium. Does not have sudoriferous glands so it can’t perspire.

9. The bed epithelium helps guide the nail plate along the nail bed as it grows.
The MATRIX is the part of the nail bed that extends beneath the nail root and contains nerves, lymph, and blood vessels to nourish the nail. This is where the nail plate cells are formed, this area is composed of matrix cells, that produce the nail plate cells that generate and harden the nail. The matrix will continue to grow as long as it receives nutrition and remains healthy. Growth can be retarded if an individual is in poor health, nail disorder or disease is present or if there is an injury to the matrix.

10. The lunula or half-moon, is located at the base of the nail
The lunula or half-moon, is located at the base of the nail. The light whitish color of the lunula is caused by the reflection of light where the matrix and the connective tissue of the nail bed join. Every nail has a lunula, but some lunulas are short and remain hidden under the eponychium.
FREE EDGE
NAIL BODY OR PLATE
NAIL BED
LUNULA
NAIL ROOT
MATRIX

11. STRUCTURES SURROUNDING THE NAIL:
CUTICLE: The cuticle is the dead, colorless tissue attached to the natural nail plate. The cuticle comes from the underside of the skin that lies above the natural nail plate. A normal cuticle should be loose and pliable. This prevents entry of foreign material
and microorganisms and helps
prevent Injury and infection.
EPONYCHIUM: The eponychium
Is the living skin at the base of the
Natural nail plate that covers the
Matrix area. The eponychium is
Often confused with the cuticle.

12. HYPONYCHIUM: The hyponychium is the slightly thickened layer of skin
They are not the same. The cuticle is the dead tissue adhered to the nail plate; the eponychium is living tissue that grows up to the nail plate. The cuticle comes from the underside of this area, where it completely detaches from the eponychium and strongly attaches to the new growth of nail plate. It pulls free to form a seal between the natural nail plate and the eponychium.
HYPONYCHIUM: The hyponychium
is the slightly thickened layer of skin
that lies between the fingertip and the
And the free edge of the natural nail
Plate. It forms a protective barrier that
Prevents microorganisms from invading
And infecting the nail bed.
mantle

13. PERIONYCHIUM: The perionychium is that portion of the epidermis surrounding the entire nail border.
NAIL WALL: The folds of skin overlapping the sides of the nail.
NAIL GROOVES: Folds of skin that form the slits, or furrows or tracks, at either side of the nail or sidewall (also known as lateral nail fold) upon which the nail moves as it grows.
MANTLE/NAIL FOLD: The deep fold of skin in which the nail root is embedded.

14. SPECIALIZED LIGAMENTS: A LIGAMENT IS A TOUGH BAND OF FIBROUS TISSUE THAT CONNECTS BONES OR HOLDS AN ORGAN IN PLACE. They attach the nail bed and matrix bed to the underlying bone. They are located at the base of the matrix and around the edges of the nail bed.
NAIL GROWTH: Normal nails:
Grow forward from the matrix and extend over the tip of the finger.
Can grow in a variety of shapes depending on the shape of the matrix.
Length, width, and curvature of the matrix determine the thickness, width and curvature of the natural nail plate.

15. Longer matrix produces a thicker nail plate, highly curved matrix creates a highly curved free edge.
No product can make the plate grow thicker, that would require a larger matrix.
TOENAILS ARE THICKER AND HARDER THAN FINGERNAILS BECAUSE THE TOENAIL MATRIX IS LONGER.

16. Average growth rate for nails in normal adults is 1/10 of an inch per month.
Children’s nails grow faster.
Nails of the elderly grow slower.
Nails grow faster in summer.
Nails grow slower in winter months.
Growth rates increase during the last trimester of pregnancy.
The nail of the middle finger grows the fastest.
The nail of the thumb grows the slowest.
Toenails grow more slowly than fingernails and are thicker and harder.

17. Growth of the nail is influenced by nutrition, general health, and disease.
NAIL MALFORMATION:
a. Shape and thickness of nail plate can change if disease, Injury, or infection occurs in the matrix.
b. If a nail is lost due to injury or infection of the matrix it
May not grow back normal.
c. If the matrix is not damaged through disease, injury or
Infection it should grow back normal.
d. Replacement of a natural fingernail takes about 4 to6
Months.
e. Toenails take about 9 months to 1 year to be fully
Replaced.

18. Diseases of the nail should never be treated by a Cosmetologist
Diseases of the nail should never be treated by a Cosmetologist. However, you may work on disorders such as the following:
Furrow or corrugations: long depressions that run lengthwise or across the nail. Causes: zinc deficiency, pregnancy, psoriasis, frostbite, high fever, measles in childhood, poor circulation. If furrows are not deep buff nails with a nail buffer or pumice powder to remove or shorten ridges, fill remaining ridges with ridge filler, cover with polish.
Onychopagy: Bitten, deformed nails. Result of an acquired nervous habit – chewing nail or hard cuticle. Frequent manicures, tips or wraps to help correct.
Discolored nails: Nail appears blue in color. Disguise with colored polish or tips or wraps.

19. Onychorrhexis: Split or brittle nails
Onychorrhexis: Split or brittle nails. Causes may be injury to the finger, careless filing of the nails, vitamin deficiencies, illness, frequent exposure to strong soap and water, excessive use of cuticle solvent and nail polish removers. Suggest hot oil manicures.
Onychocryptosis or ingrown nails: Nail grows into the tissue on the sides of the nail. Improper filing, poor fitting shoes.
Agnails or hangnails: Cuticle is dry, so it splits. Causes could be cutting off too much cuticle, carelessness in removing the cuticle. Soften with oil.
Leukonychia: White spots on the nail. Can be caused by injury to the base of the nail. Through growth white spots usually disappear.

20. Onychauxis or hypertrophy: Overgrowth of nails, usually in thickness rather than length. Usually caused by a local infection and can also be hereditary. If infection is present, nail is not to be manicured, if not present you may manicure. File smooth and buff with pumice powder.
Eggshell nails: Fragile thin, white, and curved nails more flexible than normal. Nail plate separates from the nail bed and curves as the free edge. Can be caused by a chronic illness of systemic or nervous origin.
l. Pteryguim: Common forward sticky cuticle growth.
Can be caused by circulatory problems.

21. m. Onychatrophia or atrophy: Nail loses its luster, becomes smaller and sometimes shed entirely causing wasting away of the nail. File smooth with fine side of emery board. (Exposure to strong soaps)
n. Blue nails can be caused by poor blood circulation or a heart disorder.
o. Bruised nails: will have dark, purplish (almost black or brown) spots, usually due to injury or bleeding in the nail bed. The dried blood attaches itself to the nail and grows out with it. Treat gently, avoid pressure.
p. Treating cuts: If a client is accidentally cut during a manicure apply an antiseptic immediately. Do not buff or apply nail polish to injured finger. To protect against infection, apply a sterile bandage.

22. ,,,
q. Infected finger: In case of an infected finger, the client should be referred to a physician.