1. How to Build the Space Camp Thermal Protection System Challenge Test Stand (in 7 steps)*
These are only the basic instructions to build the stand.
Based on your available materials you may need to alter the design slightly.
— This is the recommended design; as with all carpentry projects, your results may vary.
— As with all projects that involve open flame, use extreme caution.
The flame is well over 1,000°F, and the metal bits (and sometimes the eggs) reach temperatures exceeding 800°F.
Not included here are the fire extinguisher, oven mitts, potholders, tongs, binder clips, rubber bands, stop watches, etc. that are needed to run this activity safely.
* Full instructions are included as speaking notes to this PowerPoint.

2. Self-Ignite Propane Torch Bernzomatic Propane Torch – TS4000
Basic Propane Torch - TS3000T
The wooden test stand we use was built to hold a Coleman® 16.4 oz “Fat Boy” style propane tank,
attached to a standard Bernz-o-matic® handheld torch trigger.
Compatible brands and sizes should work just fine with the measurements provided here,
but if you must use different equipment you might need to alter the design of your stand accordingly.

3. ¾” thick pine board x3 Our stand is made of ¾” pine (aka “1 x ___”)
It can be easily cut from one standard 8’ length of 1x4 (you need 7’ minus one inch) and a 22” section of 1x8.
It is built very simply from 9 pieces of wood, the dimensions of each (shown in detail above) are —
All but one length are cut from 1x4:
2” — [x2] 8”
12” — [x3]
17½”— [x2]
The last piece, the base, measures roughly 7” by 22” (essentially just a 22” long piece of 1x8).
Those pieces marked with a [x2] or [x3] notation, predictably, represent multiple pieces of the same length and width.

4. ⅛” thick aluminum strip
VARIOUS METAL BITS:
The portion supporting the student-made shields is reinforced with three pieces of 1/8” (0.125 in) thick aluminum (dimensions shown above).
You will also need 1½” long wood screws, a threaded bolt with washer and wing nut, and a brass WPEX adaptor.
We used #8 1½” wood screws, and drilled our pilot holes using an 11/64 (.171) drill bit.
Keep in mind that to drill pilot holes in the aluminum you may need to choose a drill bit one step larger than what you use for the wood.
***[The brass piece shown is a professional plumbing fitting for connecting cross-linked polyethylene (abbreviated PEX), an alternative to PVC.
It can be found by searching for its specs on the internet: (WPEX UPC® cNSFus-pw F1807 B137.5) A (male) brass ¾” garden hose compression adaptor can be substituted, or a different egg-holder can be designed.
A ½” iron floor flange might make a good substitute.]***

5. step 1
Four pieces — top and bottom 2” wide and two sides 12” tall — make up the egg platform.
Using 8 wood screws, assemble the pieces of the egg platform into an open (4-sided) box.
We recommend you drill pilot holes; we used #8 1½” wood screws, and drilled our pilot holes using an 11/64 (.171) drill bit.

6. step 1
Four pieces — top and bottom 2” wide and two sides 12” tall — make up the egg platform.
Using 8 wood screws, assemble the pieces of the egg platform into an open (4-sided) box.
We recommend you drill pilot holes; we used #8 1½” wood screws, and drilled our pilot holes using an 11/64 (.171) drill bit.

7. step 2
Drill pilot holes through the metal strips, then use screws to attach the aluminum reinforcing strips to the egg platform.
We used #8 1½” wood screws, and drilled our pilot holes using an 11/64 (.171) drill bit.
Keep in mind that to drill pilot holes in the aluminum you may need to choose a drill bit one step larger than what you use for the wood.

8. step 2
Drill pilot holes through the metal strips, then use screws to attach the aluminum reinforcing strips to the egg platform.
We used #8 1½” wood screws, and drilled our pilot holes using an 11/64 (.171) drill bit.
Keep in mind that to drill pilot holes in the aluminum you may need to choose a drill bit one step larger than what you use for the wood.

9. step 3
The only part of the build that requires some careful measuring is the placement of the internal support in the center of the base.
The 8” support plank should be centered roughly 5½” from one end of the base, 8½” from the other, and 1¾” from each side.
Fasten it in place with two wood screws.

10. step 3
The only part of the build that requires some careful measuring is the placement of the internal support in the center of the base.
The 8” support plank should be centered roughly 5½” from one end of the base, 8½” from the other, and 1¾” from each side.
Fasten it in place with two wood screws.

11. step 4 Time to place the egg platform and attach the sides.
The egg platform nestles against the internal support plank on the back side, leaving just 2” of clearance between the back of the platform and the edge of the base.
The sides of the stand sit flush with the back of the egg platform, and should leave 2” of clearance to the front and back of the base and 1” to either side.
Use 3 wood screws per side, roughly at the positions shown, to secure the pieces together.

12. step 4 Time to place the egg platform and attach the sides.
The egg platform nestles against the internal support plank on the back side, leaving just 2” of clearance between the back of the platform and the edge of the base.
The sides of the stand sit flush with the back of the egg platform, and should leave 2” of clearance to the front and back of the base and 1” to either side.
Use 3 wood screws per side, roughly at the positions shown, to secure the pieces together.

13. step 5 Now it’s time for that funny slanted piece — the torch stand.
Take the remaining 12” board and miter one edge to 45°, as shown by the dotted line.

14. step 5 Now it’s time for that funny slanted piece — the torch stand.
Take the remaining 12” board and miter one edge to 45°, as shown by the dotted line.
Place the bottom edge flush with the sides (2” from edge of base).
If the mitered edge is sitting on the base, then the board is at a 45° angle and should line up the torch perfectly.
Before screwing it in place, set the torch on the stand.
The tip of the nozzle should be 1 inch from the uprights and focused a little above where the top of the egg holder will be.
Insert two screws on each side. DO NOT COUNTERSINK the top screw on each side.
The heads of these screws will hold the rubber band(s) that secure the torch in place.

15. step 5 Now it’s time for that funny slanted piece — the torch stand.
Take the remaining 12” board and miter one edge to 45°, as shown by the dotted line.
Place the bottom edge flush with the sides (2” from edge of base).
If the mitered edge is sitting on the base, then the board is at a 45° angle and should line up the torch perfectly.
Before screwing it in place, set the torch on the stand.
The tip of the nozzle should be 1 inch from the uprights and focused a little above where the top of the egg holder will be.
Insert two screws on each side. DO NOT COUNTERSINK the top screw on each side.
The heads of these screws will hold the rubber band(s) that secure the torch in place.

16. step 6 Time to prep the brass adapter.
This is what the eggs will actually sit on.
Drill a snug hole for the brass adapter through the top of the egg stand, roughly 1”—1½” from the aluminum brackets.
[The original has its hole centered ¾” from the front (torch) edge. I recommend 1” from front & sides to accommodate Large eggs.]
For the brass adapter we use the hole needs to be ½” wide.
Invert the brass piece. Push the narrow end into the hole, thread the bolt down through the plug, and secure it with a washer and wing nut from below.

17. step 6 Time to prep the brass adapter.
This is what the eggs will actually sit on.
Drill a snug hole for the brass adapter through the top of the egg stand, roughly 1”—1½” from the aluminum brackets.
[The original has its hole centered ¾” from the front (torch) edge. I recommend 1” from front & sides to accommodate Large eggs.]
For the brass adapter we use, the hole needs to be ½” wide.
Invert the brass piece.
Push the narrow end into the hole, thread the bolt down through the plug, and secure it with a washer and wing nut from below.

18. step 7
If the finished stand does not hold the torch in the correct position, the upper corners of the sides can be mitered off at a 45° angle 1½” above the base (as shown by the dotted lines).
The older stands here at the USSRC are mitered on their left side, but not on the right.
This has no special significance, they just wound up that way.

19. finished
Your finished stand should look something like the stand on the left, but in time they all begin to look like the one on the right.