1. Hair and Scalp Care I
HSA3400
11/14/2018

2. TRICHO (hair) + OLOGY (the study of)=TRICOLOGY
Objectives:
TRICHO (hair) + OLOGY (the study of)=TRICOLOGY
Define the theory of hair, including formation, growth, structure, behavior and color.
Explain and demonstrate proper draping, shampooing and scalp massage & hair treatment services.
Where does beautiful, healthy hair come from?
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3. Topics: Purposes of hair. Composition of hair.
Two main divisions of the hair
Structures associated with the hair root.
Structure of the hair shaft.
Qualities of the hair.
Hair distribution & growth.
Determining the condition of hair.
pH and its effects on the hair and scalp.
Hair Treatments
Time frame: Two 80-minute blocks
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4. Why take this course?
Bulb
You will be more successful in creating beautiful, healthy looking hair when you understand its composition, structure and behavior; how to evaluate it for product selection; and how to properly treat both hair and scalp.
Whether for your career or personal purposes, this course will put you in control of the hair you want! pH
Follicle
Hair shaft
Hair root
Growth
Cortex
Quality
Papilla
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5. Vocabulary Hair root Hair shaft Follicle Bulb Papilla
Arrector pili muscle
Sebaceous glands
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Acid mantle
Texture
Porosity
Elasticity
Terminal hair
Secondary hair
Primary hair
Barba
Capilli
Cilia
Supra cilia pH
logarithmic
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6. 1. Two Purposes of Hair Protection Adornment
Aids in preventing heat loss.
Cools the body by aiding in the evaporation of perspiration.
Prevents dust, bacteria, and foreign particles from entering the body.
Protects from sun exposure.
Cushions the head.
Adornment
Enhances appearance
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7. Hair is an appendage of the skin
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8. 2. Composition of Hair: Keratin
Keratin is found in all horny growths including:
Hair
Skin
Nails
Feathers of birds
Hooves of animals
Horns of animals
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9. Some people have it all!
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10. Keratin is comprised of 5 elements
Carbon
Hydrogen
Nitrogen
Sulfur
oxygen
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11. 3. Two Main Divisions of the Hair
The Hair Root
That portion of the hair structure located beneath the skin’s surface and which is enclosed within the hair follicle.
The Hair Shaft
That portion of the hair structure extending above the surface of the skin.
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12. 4. Structures associated with the hair root
Below surface of skin
Hair follicle
Hair bulb
Papilla
Arrector pili muscle
Sebaceous glands
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13. A. The Hair Follicle:
A tube-like depression or pocket in the skin that encases the hair root.
Each hair has its own follicle. Depth of the follicles vary according to area of the body. Follicles of the scalp are the deepest.
Attached to each follicle is one or more oil glands called sebaceous glands.
All follicles, except of the eyelashes, are set at an angle to the surface of the skin.
Groups of follicles set at like angles are what determines directional growth.
Different groups of follicles growing in different directions are what determine growth patterns.
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14. B. Hair Bulb
A thickened, club-shaped structure, forming the lower part of the hair root.
Attached to the papilla.
Formed of living cells that have been differentiated to determine what part of the hair they will form.
Cells are nourished through the papilla’s fine network of blood capillaries.
After the growth stage (anagen) is ended, the bulb separates from the papilla and the hair is eventually shed.
A new bulb will begin forming after a rest period.
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15. C. The Papilla
This is where all the new cells of the hair are produced.
Cone-shaped structure containing a rich blood & nerve supply.
Utilizes nutrients and oxygen from the blood in the production of new cells.
If the papilla is damaged, hair will no longer grow from that follicle.
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16. D. Arrector Pili Muscle A small involuntary muscle.
Fear and cold cause contraction, resulting in “goose bumps.”
Eyelash and eyebrow follicles do not have arrector pili muscles.
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17. Pause for Summary
The structures associated with the hair root are: the follicle, the bulb, the papilla, the arrector pili muscle and the sebaceous glands.
Awareness of the functions and behaviors of these structures can give you a better understanding of the nature and health of your hair.
What examples can you think of so far?
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18. 5. Structure of the hair shaft
The cuticle
The cortex
The medulla
Above skin’s surface
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19. Outermost layer of the hair
A. The Cuticle Layer
Overlapping
Transparent
Protective
Scale-like
Ability to open & close, like shutters
Open when hair swells or when base/alkaline products are applied.
Close when hair dries or when acidic products are applied.
Remain open when hair becomes dry and/or damaged.
Outermost layer of the hair
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20. B. The Cortex Layer
The middle layer
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21. Cortex (cont.) Gives the hair its strength and elasticity.
Made up of many fibers which are twisted around each other, similar to fibers are twisted to form a rope.
This is the layer that contains the pigment which provides the hair’s color. This pigment is called melanin.
Melanin is produced by specialized cells called melanocytes, located in the germinal matrix surrounding the papilla.
Melanin is distributed among the other cells of the cortex.
The cortex of healthy hair contains about 12% moisture.
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22. Loss of moisture excessive heat can damage cortex.
Cortex (cont.)
Contains the hair’s color
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23. C. The Medulla Layer Innermost layer of the hair
Also called “pith” or “marrow.”
Composed of softer rounder cells.
Absent in vellus and very fine hair.
Function is unknown.
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24. Pause for Summary
The three layers of the hair shaft are the cuticle, cortex and medulla.
Understanding the nature and characteristics of these layers helps you to determine hair’s condition and select appropriate products for its maintenance and repair.
Describe dry and damaged hair. What are it’s possible causes? What can improve it?
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25. Activity
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26. 6. Qualities of the Hair Texture Density Porosity Elasticity
Determining the nature and condition of hair:
Texture
Density
Porosity
Elasticity
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27. A. Texture
Hair texture refers to how fine or coarse the hair is; in other words, the diameter of the hair shaft.
Coarse hair has a large diameter; fine hair, a small one.
“Texture” may also be used to describe the feel of the hair: soft, normal, wiry.
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28. B. Density
“Density” refers to the amount of hair a person has; that is, how many hairs per square centimeter.
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29. C. Porosity The ability of all types of hair to absorb moisture.
Resistant or poor porosity is when the cuticle remains closed and smooth. Absorption is slow.
Good porosity is when the cuticle is slightly raised. Absorption time is normal.
Extreme porosity is when the cuticle is wide open, due to excessive chemical or heat damage. Absorption is almost instant.
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30. D. Elasticity
Gives hair its flexibility and strength. When wet, healthy hair SHOULD stretch 40% -50% of its length. Dry up to 20%.
Checking for elasticity= stretch hair and it should return to normal.
Under Elasticity: breaks easily before stretching. Poor, weakened condition.
Over Elasticity: Hair stretches but does not return to normal. Under developed hair/extremely damaged/limp & will not hold curl
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