1. Week 12
Skin care
preparations

2. Skin care
Definition
Function
Basic skin care
formulations

3. Definition : It covers 1.2 2 meter square and wt about 4 kg
Largest organ of the body
It covers meter square and wt about 4 kg
Completely exposed to the outside elements.

4. Skin function : Temperature regulations.
Barrier function.
Temperature regulations.
Protection against harmful effect of UV light through our pigment cells
Sensory organ.
production ... vitamin D.
Immune function.

5. Identification of skin type :
Normal skin : has an equal balance between water and oil, medium sized pores, well hydrated, smooth and firm to touch.
Dry skin : dull, rough to touch, flaky, small pores, lack of hydration.

6. Oily skin : results from hyper production of sebum, skin looks as orange peel; large hair follicle, slight shine prone to black head, and acne. - Sebum production are controlled and affected by the following factors cause: - Genetic, hormonal, stress, diet .. Etc. - Factors may cause temporarily sebaceous gland activity

7. Basic skin care :
Skin care forms the largest sector of cosmetics market Condition of face , neck and hands indicate the general condition of skin Skin is the body sacrificial organ, the first to show sign of stress Skin reflect general mental and physical well being. People spend a lot of money on skin care products. Skin care should not be for treatment only, it should be priority and daily routine.

8. Consumers needs can be roughly divided into Two areas (table 1):
Protection from
Repair of
UVR
IRR
Wind
Central heating
Chemicals
Cold
Pollution
Insects
Dry skin
Sunburns
Acne
Wrinkles
Puffy eyes
Cellulite
Skin cancer
Pigmentation
Age spots
Scares

9. basic skin care is daily routine of skin care :
This include five steps : 1. Precleanse : warm water on cotton ball to soften and loosen oil and dirt. 2. Cleans. 3. Toners and astringents : to prepare skin to absorb ingredient from moisturizer. 4. Moisturizer. 5. Sun screen. Remembers ABCs of sun safety .. : Avoid peak sunlight hours 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wear protective clothing (e.g. hat). Use sunscreen with SPF of at least 15.

10. Cleansing products Soaps/synthetic detergent-based products
Soaps (effective, inexpensive,alkaline)
Synthetic detergents includes:
Shower gel
Liquid hand soap
Foam bath
Facial cleanser

11. Facial cleaners normally contain : Formula
1. Mixture of SAA (anionic , anionic/ amphoteric). 2. Thickening agents : NaCl,and other viscosity modifiers: cellulose derivative, PEG esters, poly acrylic acid (carbapol®). 3. Refatting agent : usually natural oil. 4. Humactants : glycerol, propylenglycol.

12. 5. Silicon derivatives : increase in popularity because it impart smoothness without stickiness (e.g. quaternary poly dimethyl silicon, dimethicone copolyol). 6. Hydrolysed protein. 7. Natural oil and extracts. 8. Proteolytic enzymes : keratolytic agents.

13. Cleansing products Cleansers for oily skin
Facial mask and exfoliating lotion rather than facial scrubs.
Formula:
Synthetic detergent system
Astringent
Oil controlling agents and soothing agents (oily controlling cleansers)

14. Cleansing products Emulsion cleansers Cleansing cream
Rinse-off emulsion(foaming cleanser)
Cleansing fluid emulsion (milk/lotion)
sebum absorbing material

15. - Some skin care ingredients 1
- Some skin care ingredients 1. Plant extracts commonly used in skin-care products
Their beneficial effects might be due to its moisturizing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photo-protective properties of natural ingredients.
2. Special additive / nutrients: Vitamins: Vitamin C has been used extensively in cosmetic formulations for their skin lightening activity, free radical scavenger and collagen synthesis anti-aging properties. Ascorbic acid was found to cause epithelium thickening, with cells of larger volume in the granular and spiny layers. Vitamin E protect skin from ultraviolet light, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helps delay ageing and has skin moisturizing properties due to its antioxidant activity.

16. Special additive / nutrients:
- Proteins.
Essential fatty acids: Evening primrose, flaxseed or borage oils were found to be beneficial for atopic skin conditions due to their gama lenoleic acid content.

17. Alpha- hydroxy acids
- AHAs are a group of organic carboxylic compounds. AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products including glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine). -.Glycolic acid, having the smallest molecular size, is the AHA with greatest bioavailability and penetrates the skin most easily; this largely accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic applications.

18. Alpha- hydroxy acids - Epidermal effect
AHAs have a profound effect on keratinization; which is clinically detectable by the formation of a new stratum corneum. It appears that AHAs modulate this formation through diminished cellular cohesion between corneocytes at the lowest levels of the stratum corneum.
- Dermal effects
AHAs with greater bioavailability appear to have deeper dermal effects. Glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, on topical application to photodamaged skin, have been shown to produce increased amounts of mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin thickness without detectable inflammation, as monitored by skin biopsies.

19. TONERS
The active component is astringent. Material with astringent properties can be classified as a. Short chain alcohol e.g. ethanol. b. Organic acid with low molecular wt e.g. lactic acid. c. Metal salt of organic or inorganic acid e.g. Al sulfate.
d. Vegetable extracts containing tannins e.g. Witch hazel.

20. Skin Barrier Function Moisturizing Agents
Humectants, emulsifiers and commercially available moisturizers have been found to influence the barrier function in normal skin. In damaged skin, topically applied substances can both accelerate and retard normalization of the barrier function to water. Furthermore, skin susceptibility to irritants is influenced by certain moisturizers, which clearly indicates that ingredients are not as inert to the skin as previously considered. This opens up new possibilities to treat more efficiently various skin abnormalities and different body areas, and to understand various requirements among consumers.
Before going through moisturizers and their types and applications, we will briefly discuss the structure of the skin and types of human skin.

21. Fig.1: Structure of the skin

22. Fig.1: Structure of the skin

23. Moisturizing factor (NMF)
The NMF acts as a water reservoir in the horny layer which keeps the latter pliable and feeling soft.
The composition of the NMF is :
Components %
Free amino acids 40
Lactate
2-Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 14
Urea 4
Mineral Salts 16
Sugar, organic acids, peptides 11
Urocanic acids 3

24. Day preparations
These soap-based oil / water creams give a wet feel on the skin when first applied. They do not rub in well and appear soapy and white.
Secondary emulsifiers such as self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate and other nonionic surfactants such as polyethylene glycol esters and fatty alcohol ethers can be used to prevent any skin dryness which may result from use of the alkali-stearate soaps.
Other emulsion stabilizers include the carbomers and fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol. Cationic surfactants, such as stearalkonium chloride, are used to a lesser extent as emulsifiers. Because of their substantivity to the skin, they may be used to give an additional smooth skin feel after application.

25. Night preparations
Products which are supposed to be left on the skin overnight serve to provide vital nutrients to the skin which may have been lost during the day. These products, like massage creams, tend to be water-in-oil emulsions which are available as creams and viscous lotions. Water-in-oil emulsions tend to be less cosmetically elegant than the oil-in-water types because of the difficulty of rubbing them in; in addition they are apt to leave a feeling of stickiness on the skin.