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Ocean Currents and Waves
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#9 Notes and Handouts Foldable:
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Classwork #3 Current Demo
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#10 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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Equatorial Countercurrent
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Southern Hemisphere Antartic Circumpolar Current
(a.k.a. West Wind Drift) = Largest current Monsoons
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North Atlantic Gulf Stream-def. North Atlantic Current Splits into…
1. Norway Current 2. Canary Current Labrador Current
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On Back- N. Atlantic North Atlantic Gyre Sargasso Sea Sargassum
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North Pacific Kurshio Current North Pacific Drift California Drift
The “Gulf Stream” for Pacific Ocean North Pacific Drift California Drift
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#11 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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Antarctic Bottom Water
Densest and Coldest Ocean Water: Extremely Cold (-2° C) High Salinity Moves N-ward along the bottom to ~40°N Takes 100’s of years to make the trip
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North Atlantic Deep Water
Moves Southward under the Gulf Stream Deep Currents near Mediterranean Sea High Salinity in Mediterranean Sea caused by high evaporation and low precipitation ON BACK: Turbidity Currents -Strong current cause by underwater landslide
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Ch 21 Sec 2 Ocean Waves
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#12 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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Wave Parts
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On Back- Definitions Wave –
A periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid or gas as E is transmitted through a medium Wave period – Time for two consecutive wave crests to pass a given point Frequency – # of wavelengths that pass in 1 second Wave speed Wave speed = Wavelength/Wave Period
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Ocean Motion
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# 13 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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Inside the Foldable- 3 Factors that affect wave size-
Speed of Wind Length of Time Wind Blows Fetch- the distance that wind can blow across open water Increase factor Increase Wave Size
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Small- (Back of Flap) Ripples
Caused by friction between moving air and water
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Large- (Back of Flap) Form as a ripple
Receive more Energy (E) from the Wind Higher Speed Larger E transmit. Larger Wave ↑ Time blowing Larger E transmit. Larger Wave ↑ Fetch Larger E transmit. Larger Wave
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On Back Swell – White Caps – DEFINE:
Group of long, rolling waves that are of similar size; move in groups in which one wave follows another White Caps – Form when wind blows the crest off of waves; reflect the sun and allow less radiation to reach the ocean
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#14 Notes and Handout Foldable
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Breakers A foamy mass of water that washes onto the coastline.
Formed when top of the waves topples over. Height = 1 to 2x larger than original wave Scrape sediments off floor and move along coastline. Erode rocky coastlines.
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Refraction Process by which ocean waves bend toward the coastline as they approach shallow water. Point in shallow – slow Point in deep – fast
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Undertows vs. Rip Currents
an irregular current formed when breaking waves get pulled back into deep water by gravity. Rip Currents – form when water from large breakers return to ocean through channels cut through underwater sandbars.
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Longshore Current Form when waves approach the beach at angle. Flow parallel to shore. Makes sandbars. Sandbars – Low ridges of sand
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On Back Tsunami Aka “Tidal Wave” but it is NOT caused by tides
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#15 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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On Back Tide – Tidal Range –
periodic rise and fall of water level in ocean due to gravitational pull of moon on earth. Tidal Range – diff in levels of ocean high and low tide.
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High When water level at highest.
Ocean on side of Earth nearest moon bulges as does the opposite side
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Low Lowest when water leaves. Form halfway between 2 high tides.
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Spring Higher high tides and lower low tides during a new moon or a full moon Moon, Sun, and earth line up High Tidal Range
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Neap Lower high tides and higher low tides during the 1st and 3rd qtr phases of moon when S E and M. Low Tide Range
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#16 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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On Back Tidal Oscillations –
slow, rocking motions of ocean water formed as the tidal bulges move around ocean basins.
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Little Effect Straight Coastlines
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Greater Effect Enclosed seas Small basins and narrow bays
Reduces effects of tidal bulges Small tidal range Small basins and narrow bays Increase effects of tidal bulges Large tidal range
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#17 Notes and Handouts Foldable
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On Back Tidal Current – Tidal Bore –
Movement of water towards or away from the coast. Tidal Bore – A surge of water that rushes upstream
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Flood Tide When the tidal current flows towards the coast.
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Slack Water The time between flood tide and ebb tide, where there are no tidal currents.
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Ebb Tide When the tide flows towards the ocean.
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