1. Waves, Tides, and Currents
MOTION IN THE OCEAN
Waves, Tides, and Currents

2. Waves A disturbance which moves through or over the surface of a fluid
Mostly caused by winds
(Also earthquakes, volcanoes, grav. pull)
Form of great energy

3. Wave Characteristics Parts of a Wave Crest = high point
Trough = low point
Height = vertical distance from crest to trough
Wavelength = Horizontal distance between crest to crest or trough to trough

4. Size of Wind Generated Waves
Depends on 3 things:
Wind Speed
Wind Duration (length of time wind blows)
“Fetch” Extent of open water across which the wind can blow

5. Water Motion in Waves Water travels in vertical circular orbits
Wave moves, particles don’t!

6. Importance of Waves Shaping Coastlines Ecology Erode cliffs
Grind rock into sand
Ecology
Returns O2 to water
Stir up food for filter feeders

7. TSUNAMI “TIDAL WAVE” Caused by undersea quake or volcano
Wavelength = ~150 mi. Wave height = 6” – 1’
Can NOT perceive in boat Speed > 500 mph
Slows down to ~25 mph at shore; water builds up to ~65+ ft

8. Tsunami Waves

9. Creation of a Tsunami

10. Tides The rhythmic rise and fall of the ocean’s water
High tide = rising, incoming tide, flow
Low tide = receding, outgoing tide, ebb
Slack tide = vertical movement stops

11. Tides are very long, slow waves
They have a wave period of 12 hours 25 min
Tidal day is 24 hours 50 min
NJ has 2 high and 2 low tides daily

12. What Causes Tides? 1. Gravitational pull of sun & moon on Earth
Moon closer, therefore > effect
Like magnet, pulls water away from surface = TIDAL BULGE

13. Importance of Tides Expose & submerge orgs
Circulate water in bays & estuaries
Circulates food, wastes, etc
Trigger spawning (grunion, horseshoe crab)

14. Currents What are currents? Causes - “Rivers” of circulating water
- Wind
- Rotating Earth
- Density Changes

15. IMPORTANCE OF SURF. CURRENTS
NAVIGATION
MIGRATION
WEATHER

16. Localized Surface Currents
Longshore Current.
Flows parallel to shore; move sediment

17. RIP CURRENT
- Caused by converging longshore currents
- Very dangerous ; Red Flag
- DO NOT fight rip current; swim parallel to shore to get out of channel

19. Importance Of Deep Currents
Upwelling
Brings deep water to surf.
Circulates nutrients up
Moves plankton & larvae