1. Waves
Page 49 in Notebook

2. How do waves start?
- Generating force - a pulse of energy introduced into the water
Most common generating force is wind
- Waves move away from the generating force.
- The size of the wave and the distances it travels depends on the amount of energy in the generating force
- Restoring force – the forces that causes the water to return to its undisturbed surface level

3. What are the different types of waves?
Ripples/Capillary waves – waves created on the surface by wind and surface tension
Form in patches that are driven by pulses of wind
Patches are sometimes called cat’s-paws.

4. What are the different types of waves?
Progressive wind waves– waves that are generated by the wind, are restored by gravity and progress in a particular direction.
Most waves observed at sea are progressive wind waves

5. What are the different types of waves?
Forced waves – waves that are generated under storm conditions and are forced to increase in size and speed by the continuing input of energy.
Free waves are waves that move away from a storm; they are no longer wind- driven and they disperse.

6. What are the different types of waves?
Episodic waves – also called rogue waves; large waves that suddenly appear unrelated to local sea conditions
Abnormally high
Can be caused by intersecting waves, changing depths, and currents

7. What are the different types of waves?
Seismic sea waves (tsunamis) – large waves are that are caused by the sudden movements of Earth’s crust (sometimes incorrectly called tidal waves)

8. What are the different types of waves?
Shallow-water waves– waves that occurs in water less than 1/20 the wavelength
Deep-water waves– waves that occur in water that is deeper than one-half the waves length

9. The motion of the ocean!
- Waves do not represent the flow of water, but instead represent the flow of energy.
- In open water (not at the shoreline), the water does not travel with the wave. Instead, it is only the energy that moves forward.
- Surface particle water rises and moves forward. Then the water at the top of the wave falls, slowing its forward momentum. As the energy passes over, the water begins to move backwards as it falls, ending up where it started.

10. Waves Terms: Macaroni Lab
Construction Paper – For your fridge
Questions for page 50

11. Step 1: Make your wave
1) Hold your paper so that the sides are shorter than the width (longer side on the top and bottom of paper).
2) Draw a straight line across the middle of your paper.
3) Around your straight line, draw two full waves (like the drawing below). It should start and end on the middle line.

12. Step 2: Glue your macaroni
1) Harken back to a simpler time in your life and glue your macaroni along your wave line (the blue line).
2) Please do not eat the macaroni or the paste, children.

13. Step 3: Label your macaroni wave
1) Crest – top of the wave
2) Trough – bottom of the wave
Crest
Trough

14. Step 3: Label your macaroni wave
3) Wavelength – distance from crest to crest or trough to trough
Crest
Wavelength
Trough

15. Step 3: Label your macaroni wave
4) Wave Height – height from the top of the crest to the equilibrium surface OR height from the bottom of the trough to the equilibrium surface
Crest
Wavelength
Wave Height
Equilibrium Surface
Trough

16. Step 3: Label your macaroni wave
5) Wave Period – NOT A DISTANCE MEASUREMENT, the time required for two successive crests or troughs to pass a point in space.
Wave Period
Crest
Wavelength
Wave Height
Equilibrium Surface
Trough

17. Waves Terms: Macaroni Lab
Construction Paper – For your fridge
*EVEN THOSE THESE TERMS AREN’T IN YOUR NOTEBOOK, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR KNOWING THEM!!!