1. Corrective Shaping Klicker page 187
Highlighting or Shadowing
Cosmetics

2. Highlighting or Shadowing
“application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion”

3. Shadowing Klicker page 183; Mayer pages 574-575 Eye Shadow
Orbital Cavity
Forehead
Nasolabial Folds
Cheekbone
Mouth
Chin
Dimples

4. Highlighting
Forehead
Nose
Chin

5. Warm Color Areas Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, 582-52
Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and forehead
Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles

6. Corrective Shaping of the Lips
Klicker page 188
Thickening the Lips
Widening the Lips
Thinning the Lips
Narrowing the Lips

7. Coloring the Lips Natural Effect: Youthful Adult Old-age
Crimson Lip Color
Ornamental Effect

8. Rouges and Rouging Klicker page 167; Mayer page 572
Proper rouge application and color selection constitute two of the most important phases of mortuary cosmetology

9. Purpose Replace the blood-color on nude skin.
Create a florid or ruddy complexion.
Combat absorptive effect of illumination.
Re-instate warm color areas.
Correctively shape the cheeks and lips.

10. Classifications Klicker page 168 Liquid: transparent, opaque Cream
Powder
Lip

11. Natural Rouging Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573
From youth to middle-age, and then to old-age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks.
Infants
Children
Adolescents
Young Adults
Middle Age Adults
Aged Adults

12. Ornamental Rouging Violates the “rules” of natural coloring.
Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the face.
Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold.

13. Lip Rouging Techniques
Klicker page 169
1) lining and filling
2) vertical brush application
3) horizontal brush application