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Waves and Tides Notes
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Wave Characteristics Most ocean waves derive their energy from the wind Wave height: the vertical distance between trough and crest Wavelength: horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs Wave period: the times it takes for one wave to pass a certain point
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Wave Characteristics The height, length, and period that are eventually achieved by a wave depend on three factors Wind speed Length of time wind is blowing & fetch; the distance the wind has traveled across open water.
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Wave Motion Circular orbital motion allows energy to move forward through the water while the water particles that transmit the wave move around in a circle
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Tides The regular changes in the elevation of the ocean surface
Tides form from the gravitational attraction exerted upon different parts of the Earth’s Surface by the moon, and by a lesser extent by the sun.
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Tidal Patterns Diurnal: a single high tide and a single low tide each tidal day Semidiurnal: two high tides and two low tides each tidal day Mixed: two unequal high water level heights, low water heights, or both
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