1. Handling and Restraint

2. Handling
Before handling the animal, get his/her attention.
Call the pet by name / encourage him/her to come to you.
Never surprise the animal by approaching from behind.
Turn your body sideways and do not make eye contact. Staring directly into a dog’s eyes could be seen as a challenge.

4. The proper way to greet a dog is to turn your body sideways with no eye-to-eye contact. Do not reach for the dog but rather allow the dog to take a few steps towards you and smell you.

5. Extend your hand, palm down
Extend your hand, palm down. You may want to curl your fingers into a fist to prevent nipping or biting of your digits. Let the animal sniff your hand, then slowly move your hand to touch the side of the face then stroke the top of the head.

6. If the owner is holding the pet, don’t take the pet from their arms
If the owner is holding the pet, don’t take the pet from their arms. Instead have the owner place the animal on the exam table. Animals may be protective of their owners and may bite if they feel you are threatening their owner.

7. It is acceptable to examine a large dog on the floor in either a sitting, standing or recumbent position

8. To pick up a dog to place it on the table, put one arm in front of the of the animals chest and the other either behind the rear legs, at the level of the stifles or under the abdomen and lift in a "scooping" motion.
If the animal has a history that indicates abdominal disease, avoid lifting it under the abdomen as it may cause pain.

9. A large dog may require 2 people to lift
A large dog may require 2 people to lift. One person lifts behind the front legs and the other under the abdomen

10. Decide BEFORE picking up the animal if it will be placed in sternal or or lateral recumbancy and if lateral, if the legs will be directed toward or away from the holders.

11. Getting an animal out of a cage
Many animals are so happy to get out of a cage that they will leap without looking. To remove those eager pets, as you open the cage door insert your other hand into the cage to keep the animal from leaping to the floor.
Place one arm in front of the of the animals chest and the other either behind the rear legs or under the abdomen to lift them out of the cage.

12. Animals who are frightened and don't want to come out of a cage can be difficult to handle. There are several options for handling these animals:
Throw a towel over the head of cats and small dogs, then “scoop” up the pet.

13. A pair of heavy work gloves can be used to handle the animal.

14. Restraint
More is NOT better.
Work with the animal in the position that the animal finds most comfortable .
The LEAST amount of restraint that is needed should be applied.
Often the only restraint needed is to have some one stand behind the animal to make sure they do not back up off the exam table.
Excessive restraint becomes a test of wills and you will find animals to be stubborn and not give up.

15. "Talk to the animals" Many dogs and cats can be comforted by being talked to in a quiet, soothing voice. What you say is not important...the tone of voice is.

16. The client should not be the one to restrain their animal
The client should not be the one to restrain their animal. A large number of lawsuits filed against veterinarians are by the owners who have been injured by their own animals

17. If a muzzle is not available a length of roll gauze can be used to create a muzzle.
The gauze is not very strong it should be doubled to increase strength.

18. If the animal is known to have bitten or attempts to bite, early application of a muzzle actually reduces the need for additional restraint.
The need to apply muzzle should be explained to the owner in advance.
Once the muzzle is in place the animals often "give up" and stop struggling

19.  If the animal is aggressive it may be easier to get the muzzle on by approaching from the rear and quickly applying the muzzle over the nose and mouth.

20. The length must be adequate to wrap around the muzzle at least twice, then tie behind the ears.

21. A large loop is made in the center of the length of gauze
A large loop is made in the center of the length of gauze. The loop should be about 3 times the diameter of the dog's muzzle.

22. The loop is placed around the muzzle and pulled tight at dorsum of the nose. A single knot is placed.

23. The ends of the gauze are then tied under the jaw with a single knot.

24. The long ends of the gauze are brought behind the ears and tied in either a square knot or a easy release bow.

25. Behavior