1. Judges Briefing Auckland Sport Climbing Climbing New Zealand 2016
Updated to be in line with IFSC 2016 v2.2 rule updates
NOTE: this is not the definitive rules – the IFSC rules should be read for the definitive rules, this is a summarized version of the rules suitable for revision and refresher training
Auckland Sport Climbing
Climbing New Zealand
2016

2. 2. Rules Briefing Scoring Lead:
TOP (last draw!) or points on route map at last hold
Do not have to clip TOP draw from last hold
Timing:
40s to start (from turning to view the climb/leaving isolation until starting)
6 min qualifier (start when both feet leave ground)
6 min final (as of 2017)
Climber may ask how much time they have remaining, must be informed immediately by judge/head judge. Unless asked by climber, do not give them a ‘warning’ re: time remaining.

3. 2. Rules Briefing Scoring Lead: Foot Faults / Jumping / Hopping
Must have 1 foot on ground at all times
Once both feet have left the ground, the climb has started
A hop terminates the climb
This also applies during viewing time, and includes standing on chairs etc to gain a better view of the climb

4. 2. Rules Briefing Scoring Lead - Controlled vs Used Controlled
Climber must be stable on the hold (not just some number of seconds)
Must be holding climbers weight (not just touching hold). This can be in the form of pulling or pushing on the hold
Used
Must be moving on, with a significant change in the position of the climbers mass, in the direction of the climb (Watch the hips and body of the climber – good indicator)
For the purposes of scoring:
A hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position. The score of a competitor controlling a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch without any suffix;
A hold from which a competitor has made a controlled climbing movement in the interest of progressing along the route shall be considered as “used”. The score of a competitor using a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch with a plus (+) suffix. This score is better than the score for controlling the same hold.
Note: A controlled climbing movement may be either “static” or “dynamic” in nature and in general will evidenced by:
i) a significant positive change in position of the competitor's centre of mass; and
ii) the movement of at least one hand in order to reach either (a) the next hold along the line of the route; or (b) any hold that has been successfully controlled by another competitor from the hold from which the climbing movement has been made.
Note: In accordance with Article 6.9.5, no ‘plus’ shall be awarded for any climbing movement that results in the competitor moving out of a legitimate position.

5. 2. Rules Briefing What is a .5?
When climbers start using a hold not intended as a hold (usually a footer) as a hand hold, but the route map does not have a score for the hold, the judge can to add a score to the hold
If the hold is equivalent to another hold, it is scored the same as the equivalent hold
If the hold is between 2 scored holds, in the line of the climb, the judge can add it as a .5

6. 2. Rules Briefing Scoring Lead - Common confusing points
Climber controls higher hold e.g. 18 (scored 18 flat), but the decides to down climb to hold 17 and move from there towards hold 19 instead of using/moving off of hold 18. Climber falls moving off of hold 17 (scored 17+). Climber is awarded score 18 flat as they achieved this higher score while in a legitimate position, so it still counts despite falling off of lower holds.
If climber is re-climbing after a technical incident - they are awarded the better score of their attempts.
If climber is called down, they are awarded the points where they were last in an allowed position - NOT zero.

7. 2. Rules Briefing While climbing: Can do a Z clip
When fixing, are allowed to unclip any of the involved karabiners, then re-clip
6.9.6 If a competitor clips the rope into a karabiner in accordance with Article 6.9.3a) above, but a “Z-clip” has occurred, the competitor shall correct the Z-clip. The competitor is permitted to un- clip and re-clip (if necessary, by down-climbing) any of the karabiners involved. After correction, all the protection points shall be clipped in.
All draws must be clipped (cannot be left unclipped)
Climber should not be told they have done a Z-Clip by anyone (must work it out and fix it themselves) however their attempt may be terminated by the Head Judge or Route Judge if they deem any further progress to be unsafe (article 6.9.7)

8. 2. Rules Briefing While Climbing (cont..)
Special clip (Quickdraw and corresponding hold Marked with a cross, usually, but not necessarily, blue tape)
Must clip indicted draw from or before indicated hold (Safety / fall issue if not clipped beyond that point)
Can back clip
Does not need to fix, no effect on score/can’t have attempt terminated
Clip all draws in order
On vertical walls, must not climb beyond last unclipped draw (becomes unsafe)
Must be able to reach draw to clip, without needing to down climb, nor hauling the quickdraw up with a foot.

9. 2. Rules Briefing Out of bounds / Not allowed to be used Black Tape
Any Structural component of the wall. This includes the Top of the wall or back of arete (i.e. exposed plywood), and any exposed beams or framework.
Use of bolt holes (T-nut holes) on wall or volumes
Bolt holes in HOLDS are allowed as they are part of the hold itself.
Any advertising/informational placards affixed to the wall
Pulling/standing on any part of the Quickdraws and their hangers/bolts

10. 2. Rules Briefing Attempt terminated if:
Fall
Exceed time
Use unauthorised part of the wall (Black tape, Quickdraw, Bolt, Advertising etc)
Fail to clip
Use any artificial aid
Climb past a special Hold / Clip
Scoring is the scoring just before the climber ended in a position that is not allowed

11. 2. Rules Briefing Stopping the climber
Only an official Judge can stop the climber
The Route Judge
The Head Judge
Can only stop the climb if:
The climber has exceeded the time
Climber has climbed beyond the last unclipped quickdraw on a vertical wall (unsafe)
Used an unauthorised part of the wall (black tape, bolt, draw ..)
Clipped out of sequence
Foot fault at start
Must call climber off immediately they have infringed
Climber is scored the last valid hold / position before infringing + time of infringement

12. 2. Rules Briefing Starting order: Observation procedure (Finals):
As per Start sheet (Piki) - changes each round
For qualifier: Next climber ties in while climber is climbing
For final: isolation steward is responsible for it
Observation procedure (Finals):
No photography
Climber may make hand drawings, and take handwritten notes of route
Climber may use binoculars to view the route
Climbers may not leave the observation(competition) area to get a better view of the route - this includes standing on chairs etc to be higher.
Climbers are under Isolation Rules - no communication with anyone outside of ‘Isolation’ except route Judge, Head judge, and PoJ.
Climbers may touch the first hold(s) but are not permitted to leave the ground.

13. 2. Rules Briefing Isolation rules:
No communication devices in isolation
No entry or exit after isolation closes by anyone
Climbers may be escorted to toilet if needed
No communication with anyone outside of isolation except head judge/PoJ/isolation official

14. 2. Rules Briefing Technical incident
A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor, and may include:
Broken or loose hold
Quick draw not well positioned
Tight rope assisting or causing a problem
Incorrectly called down by Judge

15. 2. Rules Briefing Technical incident Continued ….
->Report incident to Head Judge. May be identified by someone other than climber (team official of climber or other team). If climber continues climbing after disadvantage they waive their right to appeal on grounds of technical incident.
NOTE THE TIME climber comes off wall
-> climber may be allowed to re-climb, and given appropriate rest period

16. 2. Rules Briefing IFSC example videos of Controlled vs Used+

18. 3. Belayers briefing On the day of the comp
Come to briefings (routes allocation)
Get informed about routes about difficult sections, mandatory clip…
Must use a manual belay device (eg ATC/Reverso/Figure 8. NOT ‘Assited Braking Device’/’self locking’ device eg Petzl Grigri, Edelrid Eddy, Trango Cinch, Faders Sum )

19. 3. Belayers briefing In the call zone Uncoil the rope
Know about pre-clip
Check if competitor ready (Harness tight + figure 8 + stopper knot)
Check bib number
Attach belay device to your harness
Leave when the route is free

20. 3. Belayers briefing While belaying Rope on good side before start
Position on floor
Slack Management
Ready for giving slack (2 clips…)
Watch indicator of fall
Absorb fall dynamically and safely
Do not encourage a climber or give them instructions (eg clipping, judges calls etc)
(before 1st clip-

21. 3. Belayers briefing After the attempt Pull the rope
Show to competitor where to go

22. 3. Belayers briefing
Documents
SCA Belaying Policy
Belayers Job