1. “Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”.
3rd International Conference on Textiles and Clothing organized by Institute of Textile & Industrial Sciences, UMT Lahore
with collaboration of
“Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”.
“THE STUDY OF SHRINKAGE BEHAVIOR OF RIGID AND STRETCHABLE DENIM FABRICS APPLYING DIFFERENT WASHING TECHNIQUES”
Nadeem Afraz
Lecturer (Textile Engineering)
Bahauddin Zakariya University College of Textile Engineering, Multan.
Dr. Nabeel Amin
Director/Asst. Professor (Textiles)
Institute of Textile and Industrial Sciences, UMT, Lahore.

2. Abstract
The shrinkage margins of garment before washing are set in blanket form, and after washing these shrinkage margins do not meet pre-calculated shrinkage values and ultimately garment “fit to body” out sizes marginally.

3. Objectives of Studies To control the dimension variations of garments
To control the size chart variations
To improve MARKER efficiency.
To reduce rejection rate .
To identify shrinkage changes with respect to the type of fabric.

4. Shrinkage Behavior
The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or garment, there are number of factors that influence fabrics
One major factor is that fabric Shrink because it under stresses during manufacturing and in relaxed form while garment washed.

5. Experiment Design
Fabric Selection:
Denim fabric is manufactured in a number of types but with the view of preciseness we select its major kinds which are in 3/1 Right hand twill (RHT) Rigid and Stretchable with weight range 9 Ozs./yd .

6. Conditioning of Samples: Temperature: 21oC ± 1oC
Shrinkage Test
Shrinkage percentage was calculated in both warp and weft directions by using AATCC test method
Conditioning of Samples:
Temperature: 21oC ± 1oC
Relative humidity: 65% ± 2%
Time: 4 hours before and 4 hours after wash
Two form of denim were used to compare shrinkage:
Blankets
Panels/Leg tubes.

7. Stages of Garment Washing Process
Stone wash
Enzyme wash
Bleach wash
Stage 1
Load of Garment and stones
Load of Garment
Stage 2
Enzymatic Desizing
Stage 3
Rinse
Stage 4
Stage 5
Stage 6
Extract
Stage 7
Tumble Dryer
Stage 8
Unload

8. Recipe for Enzyme De-sizing
Name
Quantity
Enzyme
50ml (1% on the wt of garment)
Antistain
Wetting Agent
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
De-sizing Procedure
Liquor Ratio 1:10
140 °F
Process time 15 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM.
Rinse time 3 minutes

9. Recipe for Stone Wash Name Quantity Weight of stone
5kg (Standard weight)
Antistain
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Chemwet
Stone Wash Procedure
140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM

10. 25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment) Chemwet
Recipe for Enzyme wash
Name
Quantity
Valuemax(A326)
50ml
Antistain
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Chemwet
Enzyme Washing Procedure
140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM

11. Recipe for Bleach Wash Name Quantity NaOCl 1 liter Antichlor 500 gm
Bleach Washing Procedure
140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM

12. Warp Shrinkage (Rigid Fabric)

13. Weft Shrinkage (Rigid Fabric)

14. Warp Shrinkage (Stretchable Fabric)

15. Weft Shrinkage (Stretchable Fabric)

16. Results and Discussion
In general Shrinkage is greater in Blanket Form than in Panels in all washing techniques.
Enzymatic De-sizing causes minimum Shrinkage in Stretchable fabric either in Blanket or Panel form.
Stretchable fabric shrinks more in weft because Lycra is used in it.

17. Recommendations
It is recommended that in denim garment manufacturing the shrinkage should be measured in panel form rather than in blanket form and size chart be made accordingly based on the shrinkage rate occur in panel followed by specific washing technique demanded by customer.
The shrinkage margins may be set in size chart of garment as per required wash and garment will ultimately “fit to size” that will ultimately reduce rejection and alteration rate of the garment unit
Shrinkage margin may be considered in MARKER Making-- that will improve marker efficiency and reduce wastage while calculating fabric for an order.

18. Future works Study of construction shrinkage of the denim fabric.
Study of processing shrinkage to make formula to calculate shrinkage on each washing technique.
Study of performance properties of denim fabric/ garment applying different washing techniques.

19. THANK YOU