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Micro Fibres Processing
Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibres Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing Micro Fibre Processing
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Process Overview 1 There are a number of processing options for Microfibres, depending on the desired end result and material. 1 Normal. Relax Heat Set Scour/WR Dye/Print Wash Finish 2 Textured Relax Scour Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish 3 Short Process Heat Set Scour Dye/Print Wash Finish 4 Yarn Wind Scour Dye Wash Oil / Finish
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RELAXATION 1 Relaxation is the process of shrinkage development,
at low fabric tension. Relaxation = Hot + Wet Benefits of Relaxation Reduces potential distortion or deformation of the fabric from residual uneven tension. (eg : slits, islands, uneven puckering ) Pre-shrinks the goods ready for correct setting. Required for Desizing woven goods before Heat Set. Shrinkage occurs at lower temperatures than standard fibres.
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RELAXATION 2 Relaxation Methods for Microfibres
Hot wash or scour. Say ~ 90 0C . This can be coupled with a scouring step. Hot solvent scour (continuous washer). Steaming Steam Table Gives good relaxation. Steam Frame Front of Stenter ( Steaming and drying in a stenter should be a separate step before Heat Setting. ) Combined (Single Pass) Steam Relaxing and Heat Set gives a less uniform result compared with two separate steps.
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MACHINES 1 The best wet processing machines for Microfibres are :
Low or controlled tension, - short distance to lift roll/winch (a small rise ). - lots of water pumping action to support. Good liquor exchange but low turbulence. Thies Soft-Stream Hisaka Cut-F Brazolli Overflow Longclose Ventura Rapide ADD TANK SOFT - STREAM SV Cool to 50° C before drop !
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NEARFIL FAC To eliminate air entrapment.
MACHINES 2 Low liquor ratio machines will work on viscose blends, or on heavier fabrics : say above 100 gm/m. Careful Then Airflow Thies Airstream or Rotostream These machines may not work so well on high twist and high density but lightweight fabrics. Problems => Creasing, Shrinkage, Abrasion, Air entrapment. NEARFIL FAC To eliminate air entrapment.
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DEAERATION 1 NEARFIL FAC
Developed for Deaerating yarn packages after loading. Excellent wetting efficiency. Rapid bubble breakage. Alkali stable. Suitable for : Yarn preparation Batch dyeing of light synthetics.
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MACHINES 3 Continuous Drum Scour machines.
Useful machines for microfibre relaxation are : Continuous Drum Scour machines. They give : Good widthwise relaxation. Controlled lengthwise relaxation. Good scouring of fibre. Splitting of conjugates. Some fabrics may be prepared by bad dwell methods, but it is normal to dye polyester microfibre in Jets. x
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MACHINES 4 The best dry processing machines for Microfibres are :
Electric heated, to minimise fumes. (Critical for Nylon) Steaming capacity to facilitate relaxation. Overfeed capacity to facilitate optimum body and fullness properties. Steam Frame Pad Frame
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Process Overview 2 Normal Long Process Relax or Heat Set Scour/WR
Dye/Print Wash Finish or Solvent scour or jet scour to relax . Rapid relax with Steam Frame or Table , then Set. Scour after Setting. Weight Reduce for light silk styles. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set. x or
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Process Overview 3.1 Textured 1 Textured fabrics
: are produced by blending filaments with different shrinkage. “MICROPILE” “MICROLOOPS” “Micromattique MX” from Invista Yarn => d / 200 f 175 filaments @ 0.5 dpf 34 filaments @ 2 dpf “Maximum body and softness.” Process Conditions : elimination of the Pre Heat Setting step allows full development of the micro loops of filament.
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NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester.
Process Overview 3.2 Textured 2 Micropile effects may also be achieved by varying the structure of the fibre . Differential texturising and control of crystallinity can lead to differential shrinkage properties. Invista’s nylon 6.6 ‘Tactel’ Ispira. Differential shrinkage filament, that gives texture and shading effects. Caution : Different fibre denier and types create shade variations. This may create desirable effects, or….. Warp lines from unequally textured polyester filament can show after dyeing, and can be a difficult problem to solve. NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester.
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Process Overview 3.3 Textured 3 Invista ‘Strata’ polyamide.
Different fibre denier and types can create various effects. - differential depth of shade. - differential sheen or lustre. - textured effects. Invista ‘Strata’ polyamide. This type of yarn is mixed in denier and shape leading to potential texture and colouration effects. The yarn can be used in fashion goods to create unusual colouration effects, with reasonable control.
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Process Overview 3.4 Textured 4 Relax or or WR Dye/Print Wash Finish
& Set Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax . Weight Reduce for light silk styles. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set. or or x
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Process Overview 3.5 Textured 5 Relax Modify Dye/Print Wash Finish
& Set Continuous, Jet or Solvent scour to relax . Pad, dry and emerise to loft the fabric. Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with Full Set. or or
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Process Overview 4 Short Process Heat Set Scour Dye/Print Wash or
Finish Rapid relax with Steam Frame or Table , then Set. Scour for dyeing; Dye the fabric in jet machine. Wash off well in jet. Pad finish, dry and Cure with mild Set. x or
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Padding LUBRIFIL LAF can help.
Process Overview 4.2 Notes on Short Process Heat setting before scouring causes scorching, and the setting of oils into the fabric. As microfibres have a high loading of process aids, this can be a real problem. These aids may be difficult to remove Silicone oils, sizes, waxes, and mineral oil from knitters and looms. This problem is worst with : - very fine fibres due to the high oil content. - cotton blends the cotton yellows and absorbs oils from other fibres. Padding LUBRIFIL LAF can help.
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Preparation 1 Objectives of Preparation
1. Remove the high level of processing aids. (Spin finish, size, wax, processing oils etc..) Before or after heat setting ! 2. Control shrinkage in a gentle manner, as required. (Some fabrics require a relaxed shrinkage to develop full texture and body. ) Relaxation ! 3. Minimise fabric damage and creasing. (The shrinkage step can be prone to crease generation if not performed in a relaxed state.)
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SCOURING 1 NEARPON KR Developed for removing Silicone oils from Tactel Microfibre. Biodegradable Solvent Scouring Detergent Non flammable, safe, low odour, high activity. Softens and dissolves waxes, silicone, mineral oils, PVA, acrylic size, paint, etc... Ideal for elastomeric and microfibre Recommended by Invista. Wets rapidly for padding and continuous operations. Low foam profile. Rinses clear for excellent absorbency.
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SCOURING 2 Invista recommendations for Tactel.
NEARPON KR g/l NEARCHEL TMC g/l Soda Ash g/l. Heat to C x ’
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Scouring and Dyeing Sequesterant.
NEARCHEL TMC Scouring and Dyeing Sequesterant. For Scouring. Builds up the effectiveness of the detergent. Strong sequestering power to remove metals. Extraction of magnesium from Elastane. Gives high whiteness on bleaching. Stabilises bleach liquor when padding. For Dyeing. Stable to high temperatures. Minimises dye aggregation for best dispersion.
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HEAT SETTING 1 Objectives of MICRO-FIBRE HEAT SETTING
1. Control shrinkage during wet processing. 2. Reduce creasing, abrasion and crows feet marks Y Contamination may be burnt into the fabric. The strength of setting may be measured by the Heat Set Efficiency (HSE). HSE = Final Width After Dyeing = FW Heat Set Width HSW Many microfibre fabrics are dyed without pre heat setting, to allow the full development of shrinkage during wet processing.
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HEAT SETTING 2 HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS Silk styles 185 oC x 30”
Active sportswear 180 oC x 30” or maybe No pre setting. Textured styles No pre setting. Cationic Dye types 165 oC x 30” Follow your fibre supplier’s recommendation !! Using a Steam Frame or Steam Table before setting, can give some relaxation effect without a wet process. This may be beneficial in shortening the process path.
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HEAT SETTING 3 HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS Use of Auxiliary.
The Pad application of Auxiliaries can help reduce scorching and setting of oils during pre-heat setting. The use of a padding application before pre-set also allows some movement and relaxation of the fibres. Maximum Heat Set Efficiency is achieved.
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Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of
LUBRIFIL LAF A problem solver. An anionic multipurpose product. Detergent Emulsifies and restrains oil from burning into fabric. Cleans during subsequent wet processing. Disperses particles including dyes, dust and fibres. Anticrease Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.) Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease. Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of micro-fibre fabrics.
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Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film.
HEAT SETTING 5 NAISTAT The POLYESTER friend. A fine dispersion of polymer. (Please refer to Finishing later.) Detergent Scavenges and restrains oil from polyester and elastane. Cleans during scouring, after heat set. Anti-redeposition. Anticrease Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.) Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease. Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film. Ideal for Heat Setting polyester elastane and microfibre.
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HEAT SETTING 6 NEARCAND LT 75 The Anti-scorch.
A nylon substantive antioxidant. NEARCAND LT 75 adsorbs rapidly onto nylon or amide- like substances to form an antioxidant film. This reduces the scorching of nylon and elastane polymers, and limits yellowing of softeners as high temperatures. Used for Heat Setting, Finishing or Wet Bleaching of nylon and nylon blends. Low dose required : 1 to 3 % owf. Needs to be dispersed or dissolved hot before application. Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and nylon fabric.
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HEAT SETTING 7 Some RECIPES. 65% Pick up. Nylon Polyester TC
25-30 g/l g/l g/l NEARCAND LT 75 NAISTAT 1350 LUBRIFIL LAF Maximum settling of fibres for optimum Heat Set, scorch protection, easier cleaning and trouble free dyeing. => Less distortion and better dyeing and finishing.
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BLEACHING NEARPON KR See Scouring 2
Developed for removing Silicone oils, ideal for elastomerics. Recommended by Dupont. Powerful Green Scouring Detergent for all oils. NEARCHEL TMC Powerful High Temperature sequesterant. Bleach Stabiliser, Cotton Protector and Whiteness Booster. Suggested Cotton-Microfibre bleach after Heat Set . @ C x 20’ NEARPON KR g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l Caustic Soda 50% 4.0 g/l H. Peroxide 50% g/l
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Weight Reduction 1 Imitation Silk Traditional Imitation Silk
Made with ‘fine’ polyester filament that is reduced in size and weight by the process of Weight Reduction, (WR). Typically, filaments of 1.2 to 2.0 dpf are used, with the final fibre size depending on the structure and required features. Imitation silks can now be achieved through use of Microfibre technology, without the need for WR. Weight reduction is still applied to Microfibre fabrics, to achieve additional handle benefits. The finer dpf leads to - more open weave with reduced stiffness and improved drape. - enhancement of differential dpf properties like lofted yarns. - splitting or shocking of “conjugate” fibres to Microfibres.
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Weight Reduction 2 Techniques for WR
1. Pad Roll batching. (Difficult to control) 2. WR by Pad Steam IR heat and Steam must be controlled well. x 3. WR in Jet machine. (A method used in some places.) Dip batch in (Easy to control.) NaOH x% 1 g/l accelerator @ 130 oC x 60’ The key to success is consistency. => Complete control. Temperature, Time, Purity, Liquor Ratio, Accelerants, Steam, and Excellent Washing .
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Accelerants must WR in an even or “level” manner.
Weight Reduction 3 Control for WR % Reduction in Weight can be theoretically calculated. 2 equivalents of NaOH break up one ester monomer unit. Molecular weight of 2 x NaOH = 80 Molecular weight of ester monomer = 192 Machine factors must be used in practice. = ‘f’ So, %WR = 192 x %NaOH (owf) x f 80 For Pad applications, the pick-up must be accounted for. Typical Fabric % WR Crepe Georgette 25-30% Pongee De Chine 15% Textured Wovens 15% Accelerants must WR in an even or “level” manner.
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These residues MUST be removed before dyeing.
Weight Reduction 4 The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, and leaves large amounts of polyester fragments and oligomer on this rough surface. These residues MUST be removed before dyeing. NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer. Proven performance as a machine cleaner. NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear. Lifts surface and disperses residues. Wash @ 900C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l NEARCLEAR VL g/l
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Dyeing 1 Key Issues The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres. Build-up properties. Washfastness. BUILD-UP WASH FASTNESS 1 Depth of shade X 1/ fibre dpf. Finer fibres need more dye. 2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres. DYE & AUXILIARY SELECTION 1 High dye applications needed. 2 Washfastness relates to surface dye. Microfibres have very high surface area. Problems Causes Remedies
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Reduction Clear NEARGAL DN @ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone creates wash fastness problems for microfibres. NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye. Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant. NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear Lifts surface dye and disperses residues. @ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l NEARCLEAR VL g/l (& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l
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Texture Modification 1.1 Emerising 1 TEXTURE from SHRINKAGE
The differential shrinkage of microfibres provides the potential for novel texture effects. Additional Loft. “Micromattique XF” Peach Skin effect. Medium shrink. Suede effects. High shrink. Emerising and Brushing of these fabrics. EMERISING Raising the “microloops” created by differential shrinkage, creates a fullness and warmth in the fabric. Emerising is usually done before dyeing, to reduce shade variation, but may be carried out after dyeing on light shades.
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Texture Modification 1.2 Emerising 2 Scour & Relax FIRST Pad Lubricant
EMERISING PROCESS Factors to consider …. Emery grit grade Roller speed and direction. Pressure applied. Cloth tension and run speed. Versatile - wide range of effects. Runs best on filaments. Can damage fabric, spun yarns. Runs about 8 m/min. (Spirotto Rimar / Curtain Herbert) Single roller Multi roller High run rates - tuned to effect. Good for spun yarns. Easy to run continuously. Runs about 15 m/min. (Spirotto Rimar / Sucker Mueller) Scour & Relax FIRST Pad Lubricant Dry Emerise Post Set Wash Dye Lubricate with a non permanent softener. Dry gently to about 7% . Moisture will moderate the effect. Control of parameters to desired effect. A heat set step may be included for dimensional stability. Wash/Scour to remove lubricant, fluff, and lint.
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Air Permeable Water Proofs Akzo ‘Sympatex’ & ‘Sportex’
Texture Modification 2 Air Permeable Water Proofs BREATHABLE SHOWER PROOF Fabrics Microfibres can form high density woven fabrics that : - block wind effectively, but allow vapour to diffuse through. - allow easy barrier coverage. (Polyurethane or Fluorocarbon.) - maintain appealing drape and handle characteristics. Akzo ‘Sympatex’ & ‘Sportex’ Hoechst ‘Trevira’ BARRIER Fluorocarbon Repellant. Applied as a standard finish and cured. and / or Polyurethane solution. The application is made from a volatile solvent (DMF, MEK) which is boiled off to leave a porous film. (The film is gas permeable but repels water.)
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Microfibre enhancement
Imitation Effects Microfibre enhancement VISCOSE BLENDS Light with excellent drape. High Twist Polyester and Nylon Microfibres blended with Viscose : - much reduced shrinkage. - anticreasing and dimensional stability properties. - tensile strength and durability. COTTON BLENDS Enhanced TC properties. Polyester Microfibre staple blended with cotton for shirting : - enhanced softness and drape. - enhanced moisture absorbency. - added warmth. WORSTED BLENDS Durability Multi false twisting and air texturising on warp/weft blends produces interlaced (structured) fabrics. These are similar to the felting on worsted and woollen fabrics. Microfibre Suits are available !
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Coolmax Technical Effects 1 Microfibres wick moisture better.
This technical effect is due to capillary transport created in the small gaps between many more filaments. This effect, combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle, imparts several unique benefits. 1. Comfort in normal apparel like polyester-cotton. Soft & Dry feeling apparel. Not clammy or sticky. 2. Specialty Sportswear. Rapid drying, and body cooling effects. 3. Towels and Wipes. For cleaning lenses, glasses etc… lint free ! 4. High oil pickup with polyester. Coolmax R ‘Toraysee’ & Montefibre ‘Zero4’
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Technical Effects 2 Microfibres act as barriers to bacteria.
This technical effect is due to the small size of the gaps between many filaments, which acts like a filter. This effect, combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle, imparts several unique benefits. 1. Filter Membranes without contamination. 2. Hospital specialty medical wear. 3. Clean room garments, camera bags, instrument covers.. All lint free !
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FINISHING 1 Microfibres naturally have appealing ‘handle’ features.
High softness, greater than cotton or conventional polyester. High degree of drape and fluidity, (this varies with structure). High surface smoothness, (mainly unbrushed filament fabric). Moisture transport that aids coolness and comfort. Microfibres should be finished according to the requirements for the outlet. Imitiation Silk. Emerised. Air perm / water proof. Cotton/Viscose blends. Worsted blends. Technical Spandex blends. Silky soft with stenter finish Soften to suit and light post brush. Fluorocarbon / Coating and hot callender. Fashion softener and stenter finish. Wool feel soften and shrink press. Hydrophilic / no softener, light stenter finish. Spandex safe finish, to suit the target market.
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FINISHING 2 Process 1. Exhaust Softener Application
(Suitable where a stenter does not have a pad mangle.) Cool to 40°C, adjust pH if required. Add softener eg : NEARFINISH MR JET 2% Hold 40°C x 20 min. Drop and hydro-extract. Stenter Finish as below. 2. Pad Softener. (A general process.) Set Stenter frame for width control. Pad ~ 60% PU . eg : NEARFINISH M g/l ~ 120oC x 30” Heat Set Finish at correct tension @ oC x 30”
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FINISHING 2 Purpose Finishes
NEARFINISH M88 Soft silky handle. High twist Imitiation Silk. NEARFINISH CF 511 Soft, smooth and dry. Cotton blends. Elastic Viscose blends. NEARFINISH MR JET Resilient, soft, warm. Worsted blends. Elastic Cot / Vis blends. NAISTAT Hydrophilic, durable.Technical & Sportswear Antistat, Soil release. Spandex safe. NEARFINISH CF 511 Hydrophilic, dry Technical & Sportswear Elastic Spandex safe. NEARSOPHT BC9 Soft & full cationic. Cotton blends. Spandex safe.
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FINISHING 3 SPANDEX requires special consideration.
No standard NONIONIC EMULSIFIERS should be used in the finish recipe, including softener emulsions. NEARSOPHT BC9 Low yellowing, full body cationic. Good for cotton application. NAISTAT Hydrophylic polyester finish. Antistatic, soil release, durable. (Not for dark shades.) NEARFINISH CF 511 Hydrophylic elastic silicone. Good for synthetics or cotton towel. Use NEARCAND LT 75 on Nylon, @ 2 % owf
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FINISHING 4 Some General Recipes : Pad @ 60% PU Polyester Recipe
NAISTAT g/l For full soil release. or NEARFINISH CF g/l Dry hydrophilic softness. for dark shades. Nylon Recipe NEARSOPHT BC g/l NEARCAND LT g/l TC Recipe NEARSOPHT BC g/l NAISTAT g/l or NEARFINISH CF g/l for dark shades.
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Process Options 1 Light Weight Silk and Rayon Wovens. Desize / Scour
& Relax Pre Heat Set Weight Reduce Dye Finish with Dry Mild Set Normal Process Desize / Scour & Relax Pre Heat Set Weight Reduce Dye Finish with Dry Mild Set Simple Process Desize / Scour & Relax Weight Reduce Dye Finish with Full Heat Set Very Simple Process
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Bodied Finish Softener
Example 1 Light Weight Silk Desize / Scour & Relax Pre Heat Set Weight Reduce Dye Finish with Dry Mild Set Simple Process Wash off RC Pre-steam if possible. Pad NAISTAT @ 2% 120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”. Wash and scour with NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l Rinse, and refill. Weight Reduce to calculated %WR. Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/l 90 C, then 95C with NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/l NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l Hot rinse again until neutral. Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l NEARCHEL TMC g/l NEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems. RC as for WR Washing. Finish by 60% PU NEARFINISH M g/l 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”. Heat Set improver Oil Scorch Protector Silicone & Set oil Scour system Dispersing and Washing system. Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering. Bodied Finish Softener
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Soft hydrophilic, soil release
Example 2 Sports Wear - Spandex Normal Process Wash, scour and relax with NEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/l NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l LUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l Rinse, and refill. Pad NAISTAT @ 2% 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’. Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l NEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems. 90 C, then 90 C with NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l Hot rinse again Finish by 80oC NAISTAT % owf 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’. Desize / Scour & Relax Heat Set improver Oil Scorch Protector Silicone & Set oil Scour system Pre Heat Set Dispersing and Washing system. Dye RC Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering. Finish with Dry Mild Set Soft hydrophilic, soil release antistatic finish.
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The Tool Kit The Products The Process The Advantage
NEARFIL FAC Dearation No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps Dyeing Disaggregator NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching Bleach White nylon NEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner. NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveler NAISTAT Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic NEARSOPHT BC9 Finishing Full body cationic. NEARFINISH MR JET Finishing Bodied effect.
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