1. Threads And Needles

2. THREADS Factors Affecting Characteristic Of Thread FIBRE CONTENT
STRUCTURE
TWIST
PLY
COLOR
FINISHES
STRENGTH
SIZE

3. Fiber Content Characteristics of cotton thread: Soft
Strong and durable
Easily adjusts to changes in the fabric (such as shrinkage) since it is a natural fiber
Available in various thread weights
Easy care

4. Advantage of Cotton Thread:
It gives uniformity in stitch & seam appearance
Dying is easy and easily gets the color of the fabric.
Resistance to the heat
Resistance to the tangling
Disadvantage:
Poor elasticity
Poor abrasion resistance
More expensive
Weaker (time consuming due to thread breakage)
Weakens easily by chemicals used in fabric &garment finishing
But for contrasting stitch polyester is good.

5. Soft, and works well in detail Relatively heat resistant Not colorfast
Rayon
Characteristics Of Rayon
High sheen
Soft, and works well in detail
Relatively heat resistant
Not colorfast
Not as strong as polyester
Less durable than polyester
Nylon
Characteristics Of Nylon
Strong
Low melting temperature. Not heat resistant.
Not colorfast. Will yellow over time.
Becomes brittle through laundering

6. Durable. Designed for heavy duty use
Polyester
Characteristics Of Polyester
Durable. Designed for heavy duty use
Stronger, more tensile strength than rayon
Colorfast
Retains shape
Recovers stretch
Spun poly is strong, with a matte appearance

7. Quality metallic thread has the following components:
METALLICS
Quality metallic thread has the following components:
Nylon core..
Rice paper construction.
Outer coating.
Lower end metallic threads have no outer coating.
A good metallic has an outer coating which reduces friction and acts as a protective layer.

8. Thread Structure Spun yarns twisted together:-
Single yarns are twisted together to form multiply
Number of ply may be 2 to 6
Abrasion resistance varies on type of fibers
Spun polyester is one of the most popular among the least expensive threads
Large diameter cotton replaced by small diameter polyester reduces puckering

9. Filament threads:- a) smooth filament b) textured filament thread
c) monofilament thread
Neutral color & translucent(matches with the fabric easily)
Strong and minimum
Breakage and inexpensive
The flexibility of the thread is less therefore Causes wear & tear on machine
Smoother thread are being tried to produce
Nylon, polyester
High tensity
Used for shoes, leather garment, industrial products-tents,box cover etc
Usually polyester
Used for looper as cover stitches
Bulk of thread may increase friction

10. Multiply construction
CORESPUN THREAD:-
Multiply construction
Polyester filament core wrapped with cotton fiber
Gains strength of polyester and sewability of cotton
Polyester is not wrapped as it is suspectable to the heat
Costlier due to more dye baths to give uniform color to the thread
AIR TANGLED THREAD: -
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester that are entangled as they pass through a high pressure air jet. 
twisted, dyed, and wound on cones with lubricant.
used in everything from seaming flags to heavy denim jeans.

11. TWIST:
"S" direction or right twist for single strand yarn (such as spun)
"Z" direction or left twist for ply yarn (such as core and twisted multifilament)
SNLS (Single Needle Lock Stitch) machine is designed for the Z twist.
DNLS (Double Needle Lock Stitch) machine uses both S & Z twist for the balance.
S twist is better for flat stitch or cover stitch.
Correct twist balance essential for preventing kinking & snarling effect.

12. PLIED THREADS:- Carded thread:- Made by plying the yarns together
Plying increases the durability & performance of the thread.
Carded thread:-
When two or more plied thread are plied together & multiple plies twisted together.

13. COLOR:
Color fastness
Color matching
Instruments used for the color matching:-
Spectrometer
Computer shade recipes
Resistance of the thread to various fading forces e.G. Sunlight, washing etc.
Tests are developed by AATCC.
Polyester sewing threads dyed with disperse dyes shows best color fastness.

14. SPECTROMETER

15. Advantages Of Finishing:-
FINISHES:-
Gassed
Glazed
Mercerized
Bonded
Soft
Advantages Of Finishing:-
Threads are bonded to increase ply security & smoothness.
Prevents splitting & fraying which causes breakage.

16. Relationship Between Thread Construction, Fiber Type, and Thread Finish
Core
Cotton wrapped polyester
Soft
Polyester wrapped polyester
Spun
Cotton
Soft, Mercerized, or Glaced
Polyester
Air Entangled
Textured
Twisted Multifilament
Nylon
Soft or Bonded
Monocord
Bonded
Monofilament

17. THREAD LUBRICATION:
To reduce amount of friction
To provide protection from the needle heat
Lubricant should be non-sticky, non-staining, non-soiling
and shouldn’t effect the thread color.

18. Thread size measurement
Weight
Natural fibre such as cotton and silk
Length measurement
Denier.
Synthetic fibres
Tex.
Conversion
40 weight = 225 denier = tex 25

19. Thread Put-ups Spool Cop Cones vicone Container Cocoons
Prewound bobbins

20. SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE Functions of the needle
To produce hole in the material
To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop
To pass the needle thread through the loop

21. PARTS OF THE NEEDLE

22. Shank
upper part of the needle
may be cylindrical or have a flat side.
support
larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of strength
Shoulder
intermediate between shank and the blade
It is also called shaft

23. Blade
below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle
longest part of the needle.
greatest amount of the friction .

24. Long Grove
provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn through.
A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread.
Short Groove
It extends a little above and below the eye
Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the needle thread.

25. Eye
It is the hole extending through the blade from the long groove on one side to the short groove on the other
The shape of the inside of the eye at the top is critical.

26. Scarf or Clearance cut Point Tip
It is the recess across the whole face of the needle just above the eye.
Point
Best penetration
Tip
It is extreme end of the point which combines with the point in defining the penetration performance.

27. IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD
not pass freely through the eye
not fit properly into the long groove.
Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion.
Can lead to costly thread breakages in production.
IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD
There will be poor control of the loop formation which may cause slip stitches.
It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the stitches and give an unattractive seam appearance.
Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along the seam line due to fabric distortion.

28. Thread sizes in synthetic
Needle & Thread Sizes
Thread sizes in synthetic
Ticket number
Needle sizes in
Metric system
Singer system 8
180 24 16
140 22 30
120 19 50
110 18 75 90 14 80 12 70 10
320 60

29. Needle points Cut point Sharp tips
Used for sewing leather and plastics
Modifies set of stitching and appearance of seam
Creates decorative effects
Narrow wedge point
Cuts at right angle to seam direction
High stitched density is achieved
Most frequently used

30. B) Narrow reverse twist point
Produces incisions at 45 degrees to seam direction
`seam slithly turned left on the surface of the material
Next frequently used
C) Cross Point
Incisions along line of seam
Requires large stitch length
Incisions spaced far apart
Heavy decorative seams
Stitches- straight appearance

31. Cloth point needle Types of cloth point needle
Used for sewing textile materials
Types of cloth point needle
Set point needle
Ball point needle

32. Set point needle
Slim set point
Set point
Heavy set point

33. Ball point
Light ball point
Medium ball point
Heavy ball point

34. Denim
has a very sharp, acute point with a slender eye and a strong shaft.
penetrate heavy fabrics like denim and canvas.
The slender eye holds the thread in place for proper loop formation.
prevents deflection of the needle
insures accurate needle placement for stitch formation

35. Embroidery Has a light point Large eye
Special scarf to protect threads

36. Leather
has a wedge shaped point
good piercing strength

37. Curve needles
Used for blind stitches
Operate at high speeds
Costly

38. Metallic Have a large, elongated eye Larger scarf
larger groove to protect fragile metallic threads during stitch formation.

39. Quilting
Has a tapered point for stitching through multiple layers and across seams.
The shape of the point minimizes damage to the quilting fabric.

40. Microtex Sharper than the universal point with a more slender shaft.
Used primarily on fine woven, heirloom sewing on very fine fabrics, synthetic suede, tightly woven fabrics.

41. Topstitch Used for embroidery and quilting.
has an extra large rectangular-shaped eye which allows for smoother movement of thread.
has a much deeper groove which works wonders with heavier threads.
The deeper groove allows a heavier thread to lie in it, thereby reducing friction on the thread as it moves.
most popular sizes are 90/14 or 100/16.

42. Hem stitch Wing Needles
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and batiste. Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as you sew. Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective when needle returns to same needle hole more than once. If needle pushes fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.

43. Twin (double) Needle
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching. Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce two rows of stitches. Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica points. Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance between needles.

44. Triple Needle
Uses: Same uses as for double needle. Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three needles to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths. Troubleshooting: Same as for double needle.

45. Spring Needle
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs. Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent fabrics from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for presser foot. Troubleshooting: Before using, practice free-motion stitching with heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety glasses for free-motion work, since needles often break.

46. THANK YOU