Chapter 16 Haircutting.

Chapter 16 Haircutting

Basic Principles of Haircutting
Good haircuts: *understand the shape of the head Hair responds differently: *various areas *depends on length *cutting technique used

Be aware of head form: *curves *turns *changes

*where surface changes ~ears ~jaw line ~occipital bone ~apex
Reference Points: *where surface changes ~ears ~jaw line ~occipital bone ~apex *establish design lines Baldheadfarms.com Sxc.hu

Helps: *find balance ~both sides turn out the same ~recreate the same haircut ~where/when to change technique -flat crown -bangs

Parietal Ridge: *widest area *temples to bottom of crown Find: *comb flat on side of head Found: *where starts to curve away from the comb

Occipital bone: *protrudes at base of skull Find: *feel *comb flat against nape

Apex: *highest point *top of head Find: *comb flat on top of head

Four corners: Find: *make two diagonal lines *crossing the apex *front and back corners

*will not use every point for every haircut
*know where they are Example: Front corners=widest point in bang area

*parietal ridge and above *hair “lies” on head Front:
Areas of the Head Top: *parietal ridge and above *hair “lies” on head Front: *apex to back of ear *falls in front of ear Short-hair-styles.com

*between apex and back of parietal ridge *often flat
Sides: *back of ear forward *below parietal ridge Crown: *between apex and back of parietal ridge *often flat *cowlicks and whorls *pay special attention Hairstyletalk.com

Nape: *below the occipital bone Back: *apex to the back of the ear *all hair that falls behind the ear

Flickr.com Myddnetwork.com

Flickr.com

Bang: (fringe) *apex to front corners *no farther than outer corner of eyes (end of eyebrow)

Tanyalovesyou.b;ogspot.com Junk2jewels.typepad.com

Lines and Angles Line: thin continuous mark *used as a guide Angle *space between two lines *intersect at a given point ~straight ~curved

Horizontal lines: (0 degrees)
*parallel to floor *directs eyes from one side to another *build weight *one-length haircuts *low-elevation haircuts

Top40.about.com Tonyandguy.com Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

Vertical lines: (90 degrees)
*up and down *perpendicular to floor *removes weight *graduated or layered haircuts *higher elevations

Hairstylescut.com Hairstylestips.blogspot.com Greatlooks.com

Shorthairstyles.com Hjico.uk/image Hairstyles-picture.com

Diagonal lines: *slanting *sloping *create fullness *blend long layers

Hairstyleshaircuts.info Batchplease.com Hairstyles53.com

Latesthairstyles.com Shorthaircut-styles.blogspot.com

Beveling: *stacking *diagonal lines *slight increase/decrease in length

Haircutsformen.org Hairfinder.com

Elevation: *hair parted in sections (four) *smaller ~subsections *part or partings ~line dividing the hair

Elevation: Known as Projection or Lifting
*angle or degree hair is held, or elevated, from the head *creates graduation ~layers *described in degrees

Blunt/one-length haircuts
*no elevation *0 degrees Elevation occurs when: *lift hair above 0 degrees

From pictures: ~determine what elevations were used ~create any shape you desire

45 and 90 degree *more elevate=more graduation *below 90 degrees ~builds weight *90 degrees or higher ~removing weight

Associatedcontent.com Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com

Curly hair *use less elevation *leave longer for shrinkage

Cutting line: known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, finger position
*angle the fingers are held ~horizontal ~vertical ~diagonal ~by degrees

Guidelines: known as guide
*determines the length the hair will be cut ~perimeter (the outer line) ~interior inner or internal line) *first section cut

Stationary guide: *does not move *all sections are combed to guide Used in: *blunt haircuts *over-direction ~length or width

Hairstylestalk.com Hairstyles53.com

Traveling guideline: known as movable guideline *moves with haircut
*creates layered haircuts or graduated haircuts Trendyhaircutstyles.blogspot.com Do-short-hairstyle.blogspot.com

Figure 16-22 & 16-23 (traveling guideline)
*guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut *move it to the next subsection where it becomes your new guideline

Figure and 16-26 one-length haircut ~no elevation ~diagonal cutting line ~stationary guideline

Figure & 16-28 90 degree ~vertical cutting line ~traveling guideline Figure & 16-30 45 degree (stacked effect) ~diagonal cutting line (nape) 90 degree on top

Over-direction: *comb hair away from natural falling position *used to create length increase

~stationary guide at back of ear
Longer front: ~stationary guide at back of ear Beauty.about.com

~stationary guide at front
Shorter front: ~stationary guide at front Hairstyles53.com

Client consultation: *find out what client is looking for *offer suggestions *professional advice *joint decision *discuss whether that look is a good choice for the client

When not the best look for him/her:
*use gentle persuasion *positive reinforcement *offer alternatives Work with: ~hair texture ~face shape ~lifestyle

Analyze: *clean *unstyled hair Client: *ask you about their hair *tell you about their hair *ask you for suggestions

Factors to consider: *hair type *time *lifestyle *classic or trendy

Analyze: *density *texture *growth patterns *hairline

Face shape: *pull hair away *widest areas *narrowest areas
*balance of features Hairstyle-blog.com

Look for: *features to bring out *de-emphasize *weight and volume draw attention

Wide face ~ fuller sides ~appears wider ~narrow shape (style) ~length to face Long face ~give fullness on sides ~adds width

Narrow forehead ~increase volume and width To balance ~draw eye away from certain areas ~add or remove weight/volume

Consider: *profile ~from the side ~pull hair away *features to emphasize *features to de-emphasize ~prominent or receding chin ~double chin ~overly large nose

Prominent/receding chin
Ctghealth.co.uk Sciforums.com

Large nose Double chin Thelittlegreenblog.blogspot.com Medscape.com

Type of part: *natural *center *side

Use parts of face and body:
*points of reference ~chin length ~shoulder length

Hair shrinks when dry: *1/4” to ½” *cut longer Curly hair * ½ ” to 2” or more

Hairlines: *hairline *outermost perimeter

Growth Patterns: *direction grows from scalp ~cowlicks ~whorls ~affects where hair ends up *use less tension

Nape: *less tension *avoid getting “hole” Crown: *be careful

Density: # of individual hair strands on 1 square inch ~thin ~medium ~thick

Texture: thickness of each hair strand ~course ~medium ~fine

*different hair types ~respond differently to the same type of cutting ~some need more layers ~some need more weight

Coarse: *sticks out if too short Fine: *cut very short, still lies flat *scalp shows

Wave pattern: *amount of movement in hair strand *same length on different hair=different results Review top of page

*use only high-quality implements
Haircutting tools: *use only high-quality implements *use properly *take care of them Hairproducts.com

Shears: *cut blunt/straight lines *slide cut *point cut *texturizing techniques

Americanprohaircare.com Alibaba.com $

Royalshears.com Wisecutshears.com

Texturizing shears: *remove bulk Called: *thinning shears
*tapering shears *notching shears Absolutelygolden.com

*more teeth=less hair removed
Notching shears *remove more hair *larger teeth *farther apart Hicariscissors.com

Straight razors or feather blades:
*softer effect *entire haircut *thin hair out *texturize *different shapes and sizes *with or without guards

Cachebeauty.com

Beautystoreinc.com

Clippers: *short haircuts *tapers *fades *flat tops

*without guard shave to scalp *guards-various lengths
*clipper-over-comb ***use on longer hair also DEMO Hbbb.com.au

Trimmers: known as edgers *smaller *remove hair at neckline
*around ears *crisp outlines *shape-ups Ebay.com.au Nextag.com

Clips: Please, Please, Please… *long hair-butterfly clips *short hair-duckbills

Wide-tooth comb: *detangle hair Tail comb: *section

Barber comb: *close tapers *scissor-over-comb Styling comb: *used most

All About Shears Most important tool Have the right type, size, and make of shear for you One that fits and is comfortable

Steel Primary manufacturers: Japan, Germany, United States Gauge the hardness of the metal: *can the shear hold a sharp edge for an extended period of time Too soft-sharpened more often Rockwell hardness ideal 63 or over-too hard=brittle-can break while using

Forged versus Cast Shears
Molten steel poured into a mold Metal cools-takes the shape of the mold Disadvantages: *if dropped-could shatter *if bent-cannot be bent back Usually less expensive

Forged Working metal by hammering or pressing Metal is heated, cooled, repeated Similar in price as cast shears Much higher quality and durability Lasts significantly longer than cast shears

Some have handles welded to the blades
Usually blades are made with harder metal than handles Can be repaired or adjusted by a technician

Parts of a Shear Cutting edge does the cutting Pivot and adjustment area makes the shears cut Adjustment knob *when tightened-pulls blades together so hair does not fall or slide between the blades Finger tang-pinky-less stressed and pressure is relieved More control over the shear

Ring finger hole----for the RING finger
Thumb hole---should only go to or slightly over the cuticle Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and lubrication Wipe off between each client---use scissor oil Keep blades lubricated- reduces friction-makes shears last longer-less sharpening needed

Daily adjustment and balancing
Tension too loose---shears will fold the hair Too tight---cause shears to bind---unnecessary wear, user fatigue Test for tension---DEMO

Weekly cleaning and lubricating
Carefully open shears to a 90 degree angle Loosen the adjustment knob enough so a paper towel slides between the pivot point Push out any hair and debris Place one or two drops between the blades Do not put oil on adjustment knob.

Disinfect after each client Clean shears with soap and water
Disinfecting shears Disinfect after each client Clean shears with soap and water Completely submerge in an EPA-registered disinfectant spray Thoroughly dry the shears Relubricate your blades

(not every time the sharpening technician comes to the salon)
Sharpening shears Only sharpen as needed (not every time the sharpening technician comes to the salon) The better you care for your shears, the longer the edge will last Go one year or longer between sharpening Have a factory-certified technician sharpen your shears Or send to the manufacturer for service

Read: Did you know? Page 357 and 358
Left-handed versus Right-handed Shears Blades are reversed Use the correct shear for your dominant hand

Purchasing shears Know how the shear was manufactured Ask about steel quality Decide on the right blade edge (convex edge is best) Decide on the best handle design *opposing grip *offset grip *full offset or crane grip (anatomically correct) *releases pressure and stress on the nerves and tendons

Be sure the shear fits properly
*finger-fitting system-exact size of your ring finger and thumb A proper fit ensures maximum performance, comfort, and control Read: Here’s a Tip

Hold the shears in your hand
You need to feel the shears in your hand before you buy them Make sure manufacturer offers a 30-day trial period *if not satisfied exchange or return for a full refund

Swivel thumb shears Provides great comfort and control More relaxed working posture Ask about the service agreement Certified person in area to sharpen Or send away to be sharpened

Ask about the warranty Warranty period is Exactly what is covered Analyze the cost of the shears High-quality steel New cosmetologist-spend between $250-$350.

Determine how many pairs of shears you need
Rule of thumb: two shears (in case something happens to favorite shear) One thinning or blending shear Read: Here’s a Tip and both Did you know? and Types of texture shears

Custom-fitted Shears Properly fitted protects you from long-term repetitive motion injuries *carpal tunnel syndrome or musculoskeletal disorders Prevention is the key Your hand’s main job is the steer the shear- correct blade tension does the cutting

Buying and using ergonomically correct and custom-fitted shears
Allows you to relax your grip *reducing thumb pressure *keeps blades sharper, longer Reduces pressure on nerves and tendons (prevents damage) Allows the shears to do the cutting

1. Fitting the Shear Correctly
Ring finger-hole rests between the first and second knuckle 2. Fitting the thumb Thumb hole will rest at or slightly over the cuticle area of your thumb 3. Relaxing your grip Allows you to cut without any thumb pressure

Correct finger position and alignment
Crucial to having a healthy career Correct finger position allows your fingers to stay properly aligned Notice where her thumb is placed

Holding your tools properly: *most control *best results
*avoid muscle strain Dail.stanford.edu Backstagesf.com

Jolieaidesalon.com

Holding your shears: *ring finger *thumb *move only thumb

Shears and comb: *at the same time *dominant hand ~holds shears ~parts
Picasaweb.google.com Shears and comb: *at the same time *dominant hand ~holds shears ~parts ~combs ~cuts

~holds the sections while cutting ~holds comb
*holding hand ~holds the sections while cutting ~holds comb Genssty.com

*curl fingers to “palm” shears *keep blades closed
Palming the shears: *remove thumb *curl fingers to “palm” shears *keep blades closed Transferring the comb: *between thumb and index finger Shutterstock.com

Holding the razor *entire haircuts *detailing *texturizing
Hairstyle-pictures.biz Prohaircut.com Hairbarsalon.com

Method A: *open razor ~handle is higher *little finger in tang *position ~top of subsection ~part facing you

Method B: *handle and shank are in straight line *thumb on grip ~wrap fingers around

*palm when combing Accidents: *when combing ~not cutting

Handling the Comb: *wide teeth ~combing ~parting

*finer teeth ~comb before cutting ~more tension ~ears ~difficult hairlines ~curly hair

Tension *amount of pressure ~stretching ~pulling *minimum to maximum *consistent tension ~constant even results

*maximum tension ~straight hair ~precise lines *less tension ~curly, wavy hair ~less shrinkage

Minimum tension: *ears *hairlines

Posture and Body Position:
*important *avoid future back problems *better haircutting results *move more efficiently *more control In the next slide, who’s body position is a bad choice?

Lancelocks.com clovetwo.com
Picasaweb.google.com elliotking.com

Position the client *sitting upright ~legs not crossed ~facing mirror ~see what you are doing ***standing if hair is long

Center your weight *body centered and firm *knees slightly bent Sitting: *both feet on floor

Work in front of your section
* directly in front of area cutting *position hands to cutting line

Hand Positions: *cutting over fingers ~top of knuckles ~uniform or
increasing layers Tribuneindia.com Beautynewsync.com

*cutting below fingers ~one-length bob ~heavier graduated cuts
~horizontal cutting line ~inside knuckles Blessinghandsbeautysalon.cpm

*cutting palm-to-palm
~vertical ~diagonal ~maintains control ~hands face each other ~prevents strain on your back

Beautybyjudy.info

Safety in Haircutting *accidents can happen *protect yourself and clients *palm shears and razor while combing *shears closed ~pointed away from client

Not past second knuckle
Ears ~take extra care ~lots of blood

Bangs (fringe) ~balance shears on index finger ~prevents poking client ~cleaner line

Razor ~with guard ~take care removing and disposing old blade ~empty perm bottle, or wrap with scotch tape

Basic Haircuts Blunt haircut: *one-length *weight line Weight line: visual line in a haircut

*horizontal, diagonal, rounded
*zero/no elevation *stationary guide *horizontal, diagonal, rounded *use on finer hair ~appears thicker Greathomehaircuts.com Beauty.about.com

Short-haircutstyles.com Choicehairstyles.com Hairstyles53.com

Graduated haircut *low-to-medium elevation *over-direction *45 degrees *buildup of weight *ends appear to be “stacked”

Kimlake.com Austin.craigslist.com Zimbio.com

Layered haircut *higher elevations *90 degrees and above *less weight *create movement ~volume *traveling and or stationary guideline

Beauty.about.com Hubpages.com

Short-hairstyles.com

Short-hairstyles.com Menscoolhairstyles.com

Long-layered haircut *180 degrees *more volume *shorter on top ~longer layers at perimeter

Clinic floor: *two 180 degree haircuts used In Lesson Book… *Shortened 180 (write this) Use on medium-long length hair

Hairstyles53.com Celebrityhaircut.blogspot.com Zimbio.com

Extended 180 (write this) *Mrs. Kucas’ way ~use for long-very long hair *both maintains weight in perimeter

Celebrityhaircut.blogspot.com

Long-hairstyle.blogspot.com H4hair.co.uk Myhaircuts.blogspot.com

Coolmenshair.com Hairfinder.com Mensvogue.com

Every haircut uses: ~one ~two ~three of these techniques

*add ~texturizing ~slide cutting ~scissor-over-comb gives you advanced haircutting *unlimited shapes and effects

Focus on: General Haircutting Tips
clean consistent partings ~more precise results extra care (danger zones) ~crown ~neckline

Danger zone ~ears ~keep weight ~minimal tension consistent tension ~maximum to minimum ~light tension-wide teeth

Head position ~if not upright may alter elevation and over- direction Even moisture ~variable wetness=uneven results

Work with guideline ~cannot see guide *subsection too thick ~BIG section=BIG mistake

Cross-check ~part opposite way you cut Ex. Vertical partings for cut/ horizontal partings to check for precision

Use mirror ~even lines ~maintains visual balance Check both sides Curly hair ~shrinks ½-2”

Blunt haircut Known as bob, one-length, one-level, pageboy, bowl haircuts *head upright and straight *bent forward ~line will not fall as you cut it ~some graduation you did not want

*use little or no tension
*length past shoulders ~minimal tension *long hair (below the back of the styling chair) ~client stands up

Beware of crown area (danger zone)
*growth patterns *cut this area at the very end of the haircut *or cut it slightly longer *once hair is dry, match the length to the guideline

Another danger zone---ears
Very little or no tension Blunt cuts can be designed with or without bangs (fringe) *on straight, or curly hair *short, medium, or long length

~diagonal cutting line
Other blunt cuts *A-line ~diagonal cutting line Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

*horizontal finger angle *little tension On curly hair
Longer blunt *horizontal finger angle *little tension On curly hair *naturally graduates Naturalcurlyhair.com Wilshirewigs.com

“Bowl” shape ~perimeter is curved ~horizontal and curved cutting lines
Celebrityhairstylesnews.com Hairstyles-tips.blogspotcom

Focus on: Tips *minimal/no tension *use natural growth patterns
*head upright *comb twice before cutting Pro.corbis.com Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

*even moisture *crown/hairline *ears ~avoid “hole” ***stay centered-bring outside corners to you

Graduated *vertical cutting line *45 degree (also 90-degree elevation) *any part (side, center, bang) *stationary and traveling guideline *begins in the back (45-degree elevation throughout) *incorporates sides and top

Zimbio.com Kidscrafts.bradandkris.com

Pictures on side bar *shorter shape *rounded weight *diagonal partings Con’t

Sides *elevated *over-directed *more length Back *traveling guideline *each section over-directed to previous section

Focus on: Tips *hair “expands” when dry *coarse textures/curly hair ~keep elevation below degrees

*fine hair– great for graduation
~builds weight ~thicker/fuller ~avoid heavy weight line ~diagonal partings=softer line ~medium density-safe to elevate

*check neckline ~if hair grows straight up -leave longer -graduation lower ~blend -scissor-over-comb *fine teeth ~even tension

Uniform-layered *90 degrees *same length *interior traveling guideline *soft and rounded *no weight or corners *perimeter will fall softly due to reduced weight

Other examples *1 inch length ~pixie ~crop ~Caesar??? *men and women
Greatestlook.com Oiqot.com

*keep corners ~fingers vertical ~square shape ~men’s basic haircut
Pzazzsalon.com

Shazamhair.com Do-short-hairstyles.blogspot.com

Extreme corners… Haircutsformen.org Flicker.com
Menshairstylesonline.com

*longer perimeter lengths ~shag ~top area uniform layers
~sides and back straight up ~180 degrees Hairforbunnies.blogspot.com

Zimbio.com Hairstyles-picture.com

Long-layered haircuts
Interior guide Beginning at the top of the head All hair will be elevated to 180 degrees to match the guide

Focus on: Tips *cut interior first ~then perimeter ~on clinic floor *short hair ~best on medium-thick densities ~thin hair exposes scalp

*coarse hair ~sticks out if shorter than 3” ~needs extra length *longer layers ~thickness at bottom ~layers too short stringy perimeter

*past shoulder blades ~slide cut ~ maximum length weight
Imageandstylenews.com

Other cutting techniques
*create different effects Cutting curly hair *can be a challenge *use any cutting technique *very different results than straight hair

Examples Figure 16-94 *hair appears stacked *cut blunt Figure 16-95 *volume *hair shrinks when dry-weight line has graduated itself

Tips *curly hair shrinks *use minimal tension ~wide teeth *have consistent dampness

*when dry has more volume
~leave longer *no razor ~frizz *texturize carefully ~avoid razor ~use point cutting ~free-hand notching

Cutting bangs *England ~fringe *hair that lies between the two front corners *between outer corners of eyes *work with the natural distribution ***one-length/90 degrees

***apex to corners of eyes ~only cut in this area
~more=short pieces where they don’t belong -ruin lines *you need not cut all hair in this area *short bang ~strong statement Hairstyles53.com

*long bang ~slide-cut ~wispy effect *few pieces ~small portion ~razor
Latesthairstyles.com Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com

*can be blended or not *blunt cut ~not blended *layered cut ~may want to blend

Razor cutting *totally different result *softer appearance *line is not blunt * “feathered” effect on ends *finer blade than shears Shears-two blades blunt ends

Beautypalace101.blogspot.com Womenshairstylesonline.com Womens-hairstyles.com Zimbio.com

*create any haircut with razor
*cut horizontal, vertical, or diagonal *guide is above fingers *practice

Two methods 1. Parallel to subsection ~thins ends ~entire blade is used 2. Approach subsection at degree angle ~one-third blade used ~small strokes

Wikihow.com *move ~top to bottom ~side to side

Focus on: Tips *hair in good condition Not on: ~curly ~coarse, wiry ~over-processed ~damaged hair

*use guard *use new blade ~dull blade-painful ~discard safely *keep hair wet ~frizz ~painful *work at an angle ~never force

Slide cutting *fingers and shears glide along edge of hair *removes length *blending shorter to longer *texturizing

*layer very long hair *keep weight *blade partially open *on wet hair
Diamondbeautyproducts.com *layer very long hair *keep weight *blade partially open *on wet hair *very sharp shears

Razor on outside edge of shears (both sides)
Sumukai $395.00

Two methods *visualize the line before you cut Hold subsection with tension beyond cutting line ***interior 2. Place shears on top of knuckles ~both hands move simultaneously out to the ends ***perimeter

Jolielaidesalon.com

Scissor-over-comb *barbering technique *hold hair in place with comb *tips of shears removes length *very short tapers *extremely short to longer lengths

*start at hairline *work your way up *dry hair ~see how much ~maintain control *lift away from head *do not hold between fingers

*shear and comb ~ move simultaneously up the head *cut with even rhythm *stopping ~causes “steps” ~visible weight line (not wanted)

Basic steps 1. stand in front of section *eye level 2. comb, teeth first in hairline *teeth are angled away from the head

3. still blade (ring finger) ~parallel to comb ~thumb blade -smoothly
-quickly Flickr.com

4. angle comb away from head as you move up
*avoid cutting into the length

Focus on: Tips *work small areas *start at hairline ~work up *cross-check *barber comb ~close to head

Texturizing *remove excess bulk ~without shortening length *use for effect ~wispy ~spiky

*add volume *done with cutting shears, *remove volume thinning shears,
*make move or razor *blend *for different densities Short.hair-styles-magazine.com Cool-mens-hairstyles.blogspot.com

Texturizing with Shears
*point cutting ~cut ends of hair using tips, or points of shears *wet or dry *hold hair 1-2” from ends

*tips of scissors point into the ends *close scissors
~move away from fingers *cut “points” *more vertical ~removes less *diagonal ~removes more ~chunkier effect Ehow.com

Beautyschoolsdirectory.com

Diamondbeautyproducts.com

Notching *more aggressive *chunkier effect *toward the ends
*hold 3” from ends Coolmenshair.com

*tips of shears in 2” from ends
*close shears as you move quickly to the ends *wet or dry Hair boutique.com

Notching/texturizing
Lacayoshearsint.com Wiesecutshears.com Notching/texturizing

Free-hand notching *use tips of shears *snip out pieces
***random intervals *interior *use on curly hair ~releases curl ~removes some density Ehow.com

Another Free-hand notching technique

Slithering *effilating *thinning hair to graduated lengths *sliding movement

*blades partially open
*reduces volume *creates movement

Short-style-hair.com

*never completely close scissors
Slicing *removes bulk *adds movement *never completely close scissors *use blade near pivot *prevents removing large pieces Hairstyle-blog.com

*within subsection or on the surface of the hair
*shears or texturizing shears *wet or dry *dry ~see what you are taking away

Carving *visual separation *short hair *place still blade in hair ~resting on scalp

*move through ~gently opening and partially closing *horizonal ~removes more *vertical ~removes less

Texturizing with the Razor
*removes weight ~thin out ends *damp hair *razor flat ~2-3”away from fingers

*gently stroke ~removing a thin “sheet” *tapers the ends

Free-hand slicing *wet hair *midshaft *comb hair out from head *hold fingers close to ends

*use TIP of razor ~slice out pieces *vertical ~less removed *horizontal ~more removed *releases weight

Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor
Removing bulk or removing weight ~thinning shears ~same sectioning as the haircut *comb hair away from head ~stay 4-5” away from scalp

*may repeat towards ends
*coarse hair ~farther from scalp *blunt cuts ~avoid top surfaces ~see lines *curly hair ~free-hand notching

Removing weight from ends
*thinning shears *tapers perimeter *elevating subsection ~thinning shears at angle ~close shears a few times ~work toward ends

Scissor-over-comb with thinning shears
*good way to master technique *blending weight lines *sides and nape ~hair lies closer to head

Other thinning shear techniques
*any technique *fine hair ~avoid over-texturizing ~removing too much weight

Free-hand slicing with razor
*ends of hair *softer perimeter *creates separation

*hold small piece of hair
~vertically *3” from fingers ~slide down one side ~toward fingers ***not all the way through

Razor-over-comb *used on surface of hair *softens weight lines *lies closer to head ~shorter haircuts

Two ways: Comb in hair ~teeth down ~above area ~make small, gentle strokes -on top of comb ~on surface of hair

*move comb down ~move razor down *tapering nape *soften weight lines

2. Razor rotation *small circular motions *comb hair in direction desired *place razor on surface of hair ***behind comb *comb to follow razor *soften texture *gives direction

Review the pictures showing texturizing techniques
Figure Figure free -hand razor slicing Figure Figure free-hand scissors slicing Figure Figure notching the ends and free- hand notching

Clippers and Trimmers *electric *battery-operated *shorter haircuts ~I beg to differ

*create tapers (now called fades) ~very close to hairline
~gradually get longer *men and women womenshorthairstylesonline.com Vtap.com

888haircut.com Menshairstyles.net

*without length guards ~removes hair completely ~necklines
~around ears Zimbio.com

*without ~taper hairlines ~extremely short to longer
*clipper-over-comb ~side-to-side Shorthairfashion.blogspot.com

*with length guards ~attachments ~1/8th-1” Haircutsformen.org

Tools for Clipper Cutting Clippers ~different shapes and sizes
~with or without attachments Trimmers ~edgers ~cordless, smaller Cachebeauty.com

*spray disinfectant spray ~running blades
Clean: *after each use-brush *spray disinfectant spray ~running blades ~hold down *add one or two drops of oil ~running blades ~sides Cachebeauty.com Smartpakcanine.com

*disinfect detachable blades or guards
Length guard attachments ~cut all hair evenly ~1/8th-1” ~different combinations/different lengths

Hbbb.com.au

Haircutting shears ~remove length ~detailing Thinning shears ~blending/tapering scissors ~remove bulk ~blending

Combs ~regular cutting ~wide-teeth -combing and cutting ~finer teeth -detailing -scissor-over-comb -clipper-over-comb

*barbering ~nape ~ears ~very short *wide-toothed ~thicker ~longer
Kingdombeauty.com

Wide-toothed-open end makes parting easier
Carbon cutting comb $5.00 excellent Ciao.com Beautystoreinc.com Wide-toothed-open end makes parting easier

***different from scissor-over-comb
Clipper-over-comb *close *flat-top *square shape *keep comb in position ***different from scissor-over-comb *angle of comb ~determines amount cut

*dry hair to slightly damp hair
*lever switch ~numbered attachments ~vary the distance

Tips 1. stand in front ~eye level 2.comb, teeth first ~hairline ~angled slightly away ~work against growth pattern

~cut the length against comb
3. hold comb stationary ~cut the length against comb ~move clipper right to left 4. movements fluid ~previous section is guideline

Clipper with attachments
*quick and easy *1/4” guard on nape and sides ~swicth to ½” as you reach the *parietal ridge ~more length ~square shape

Tips *work against growth *ensures lifting ~cutting evenly *use small sections *clipper-over-comb ~no wider than 3” across comb

C-O-C *angle determines length *parallel to head ~same length up head *angled away ~begin to increase length

Men’s basic *close bottom and sides *positioned ~horizontally ~vertically ~diagonally

Using trimmers *ears-hold edger sideways *outer edge on the skin *comb holds hair *ears ~arcing motion *neckline ~more defined lines at the perimeter

Trimming facial hair *use clippers/trimmers-beards and mustaches *similar to C-O-C ~cut against the comb ~length guard attachments *shears ~less expensive pair ~very coarse/dulls scissors

Excess hair on eyebrows/in ears
~eyebrows-always ask client first *remove *shears or trimmers *using complete focus Review Service Tips in Procedure pages after next two slides

Shape-up use eyebrow pencil to draw line if needed
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Chapter 16 Haircutting.

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Chapter 16 Haircutting.

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