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Shoreline Features
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Waves along the shoreline are constantly eroding, transporting and depositing sediment.
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4 Forces Wave impact Abrasion Water pounding on the shore
Large waves, high energy & lots of force Abrasion Sawing & grinding action of rock fragments in water
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4 Forces (cont’d) Longshore transport Wave refraction
When currents flow parallel to the shore moving large amounts of sediment Wave refraction Bending of waves
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LONGSHORE CURRENT BACKWASH SWASH direction of sand drift BEACH
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Erosional Features Coastal landforms that form as a result of erosion by waves
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Wave-cut cliffs & platforms: formed by waves slowly wearing away coastal land
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Sea arches & stacks: softer parts of headland eroded away by waves
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Depositional Features
Result of beach sediment being transported along the shore and deposited where wave energy is low
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spit: long, narrow deposit of sand connected at one end to the shore
end might hook in response to the dominant direction of the longshore current
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The formation of a spit by sand movement in response to longshore currents.
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sand bar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from open ocean
Baymouth Bar sand bar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from open ocean
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tombolo ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or another island
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barrier islands narrow sand bars parallel to, but separated from, the coast at distances from 3-30 km offshore
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sometimes a hazardous place to live because it is severely eroded by storms
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Protective Structures
Man has developed many techniques to stabilize the seashore. Many employ the use of HARD STABILIZATION
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Groins structure that is built perpendicular to a beach to prevent sand from moving
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Breakwater structure build parallel to shore to create a “quiet zone” between the shore and the open ocean; used to protect boats from large, breaking waves
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Seawall built parallel to shore to protect property from breaking waves
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Beach Nourishment adding additional sand to a beach to replace sand that has been washed away; alternative to building protective structures
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