1. OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE New Emulsifier of Vegetal Origin
Good afternoon. The topic I’m going to discuss concerns two new emulsifiers of vegetal source.

2. Steps Vegetal Path Emulsifying properties How to use Sensory profiles
In the steps of the presentation we will see something about the natural source of the two ingredients. Then we will evaluate the emulsifier properties studied in a systematic approach. After that I will summarize their characteristic in order to show how to use the two emulsifiers in a easy way. Finally we will see the sensory characteristic that the two ingredients give to the finished formulas.

3. OLIVOIL PRODUCT Cold pressing: Olive oil 75% OILS
SATURATED LIPID CHAINS
MONO-UNSATURATED LIPID CHAINS
POLY-UNSATURATED LIPID CHAINS
OLIVE OIL
16%
75% 9%
PEANUT OIL
19%
53%
28%
SUNFLOWER OIL
11%
33%
50%
CORN OIL 5%
31%
SOYA OIL 4%
23%
59%
COCONUT OIL
87% 6% 2%
The main characteristics of both ingredients is the presence of a complex of lipid derived from Olive oil. As we known the olive oil is widely preferred to other vegetable oils for its high amount of mono-unsaturated fatty acids, that exhibits well-known properties of integration with the body physiology.

4. OLIVE OIL 75% Mono-unsaturated ~ 2% Unsaponifiable fraction
Better stability
Body physiology
~ 2% Unsaponifiable fraction
(Tocopherols, Polyphenols 18-35%)
Powerful Antioxidant
Reducing oxidative stress
Avoiding lipids peroxidation
Moreover the mono-unsatured fraction guarantees a better stability of the total lipid complex. The stability and the functionality of the complex of lipids is also guaranteed by the relatively high content of unsaponifiable fraction rich in polyphenols and tocopherols. This fraction is kept unchanged in the finished material.

5. Multi-functional combination
Olive Oil
Vegetal source
Lipidic chains complex
Hydrophilic molecules
Indeed the idea is the chemical combination of the complex of the lipidic chains, derived from olive oil, with hydrophilic molecules of known performances. In this way a multi-functional ingredients suitable for innumerable cosmetics formulations can be created.
Hydrophobic Tail
Hydrophilic
Head

6. + OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE Vegetal source Amino-acid: Glutamic
Olive Oil
Vegetal source
Amino-acid: Glutamic
Lipo-amino-acid Sodium salt
Natural Source – No GMO
Environmentally friendly
In the case of Olivoil Glutamate, the hydrophilic head was obtained by linking to the lipid chains complex with an amino acid, Glutamic acid derived from vegetable. This ingredient can be a valid alternative to that ingredient containing hydrolyzed protein. However the bio-compatibility with the skin and the environmentally friendly properties are kept.

7. OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER
SODIUM OLIVOYL GLUTAMATE %
CETEARYL ALCOHOL %
GLYCERYL STEARATE %
ECOCERT
(pending)
Starting from the sodium salt of the lipo-amino acid molecule, the emulsifier was obtained adding the two listed co-emulsifier.

8. EMULSIFYING PROPERTIES Glutamate
Low, Medium, High Polarity OILS
Production Methods
Stabilizing Polymers
10%, 20%, % Oily Phase
2.5%, 5%, 7.5% Emulsifier
Let’s pass on to emulsifier properties of the two ingredients. We evaluated their characteristics using a systematic approach: Changing the polarity of the oily phase; Changing the sequence of addition of the ingredients; evaluating the compatibility with stabilizer polymer; Changing the amount of the oily phase; finally, changing the percentage of the emulsifier.

9. EMULSIFYING PROPERTIES Glutamate
Emulsion Homogeneity & Size
Microscope
Accelerated Stability
Centrifuge
Standard Stability
1 4°C, RT, 43°C
Each emulsion was evaluated by Microscope for the homogeneity and particle size; Centrifuge for accelerate stability and STD stability for 1 month at ………

10. Homogeneity & Size MicroscopeA B C
As far as the particles size and homogeneity concerned, the pictures show how we evaluated an emulsion as not fine and not homogeneous, quite fine and quite homogeneous and very fine and homogeneous.
Quite fine
Quite Homogeneous
Not fine
Not Homogeneous
Very fine
Homogeneous

11. Accelerated Stability Centrifuge
7000 G, 35°C, 30 minutes
Oily phase
In the accelerate stability we put the samples for 30 minutes at 35°C and 7000 Gravity force. Then we evaluated the test tube and considered the emulsion stable like in the first picture, separated like in the second picture or not physically stable like in the last picture.
Water phase
Stable
Separation
Creaming

12. OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER
……. briefly to the second emulsifier using the same systematic approach.

13. POLARITY INFLUENCE Oils @ 20%
Size
Centrifuge
STD
Stability
Hydrogenated Polydecene
10-20 µ
>50% - S NT
Dicaprylyl Ether
6-10 µ
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
3-7 µ
<10% - C C
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
4-6 µ
Octyldodecanol
9-15 µ
Sweet Almond Oil
10-20% - C OK
C = Creaming NT = Not tested S = Separation

14. PRODUCTION METHODS
Oils
Size 1 2 3
Hydrogenated
Polydecene
10-20 µ
5-10 µ
C12-15
Alkyl Benzoate
3-7 µ
<2 µ
8-20 µ
Sweet
Almond Oil
2-5 µ
15-25 µ
Accelerated stability Methods 2: Improvement with non-polar oils

15. HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
XANTHAN GUM
Oils
Size
Centrifuge
STD
Stability
Hydrogenated Polydecene
<2 µ
< 10% - C OK
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Sweet Almond Oil
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
Oils
Size
Centrifuge
STD
Stability
Hydrogenated Polydecene
<2-4 µ
< 10% - C OK
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
<2 µ
Sweet Almond Oil

16. CARBOMER Xanthan Gum Hydroxyethylcellulose Carbomer Oils Size
Centrifuge
STD
Stability
Hydrogenated Polydecene
2-4 µ
< 10% - C OK
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
<2 µ
Sweet Almond Oil
Xanthan Gum Hydroxyethylcellulose
Carbomer

17. % GLUTAMATE & % OILS OILY PHASE GLUTAMATE 10 – 20% 4 – 5% 30 – 40%
Less powerful, so we need to use 4-5% for 10-20% of oily phase, and 6-7.5% of emulsifier for 30-40% of oily phase.
30 – 40%
6 – 7.5%

18. How to use: GLUTAMATE No Hydrolized Protein Emulsifier into oily phase
4 – 7.5%
10 – 40% of oily phase
with polymer  L, M, H polar oils
high pH & with Salts
low pH & with Silicones
No Hydrolized Protein

19. Sensory Profile

20. Sensory Profile Olivoil Glutamate
Initial perception  Very Light emulsion
Spreadability  Oils related
Final perception  Oils related

21. Formulae

22. Sunscreen  SPF 25 A OLIVOIL AVENATE
PHASE
TRADE NAME
INCI NAME
% w/w A
OLIVOIL AVENATE
POTASSIUM OLIVOYL HYDROLYZED OAT PROTEIN, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL OLEATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE
5.00
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE
SODIUM OLIVOYL GLUTAMATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE
2.50
UVINUL A PLUS
DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
9.00
UVINUL T150
ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
3.00
CETIOL B
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
8.00
DUB 1215
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
MYRITOL 331
COCOGLYCERIDES
Antioxidant
q.s. B
DEMIN. WATER
AQUA
52.55
HYDROTROPES
0.30
ACTIVES INGRED.
0.25
COMIXAN ST/HV
XANTHAN GUM C
Preservatives

23. THANKS YOU