1. Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors
When to Start – weeks before last frost (We are Zone 6b – Last frost April 29 and first frost October 15 (168 growing days) I always aim to transplant at the full moon in May. (this year May 14) (I count out seeding time from ie May 14th not necessarily the last frost).
10 weeks before last frost – broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and head lettuce (week of March 2nd)
8 weeks before last frost– tomato, eggplant and peppers (week of March 16th)
4 weeks before last frost– cucumber, muskmelon, squash and watermelon (week of April 14th)
Your plants are going to be indoors 6 to 8 weeks, best to start a bit early because it doesn’t hurt the plants to stay inside a bit longer.
- ensures high percent germination, vegetables established from transplants tend to mature much earlier and direct-seed ones

2. To Start Select the vegetables you want to plant indoors.
Buy treated seed or we discuss how to prevent damping off later for those who prefer organic or untreated seeds.
Check the germination % on the package.
Follow directions on seed package. For example whether you should soak your seeds before sowing or whether larger seeds need scarifying or ‘nicking’.
Get materials such as pots, trays, plastic flats, peat pots, and potting mix for starting seeds or starter kits.

3. When starting seeds
If starting in tray or pot, cover holes with peat moss before filling with starter mix.
A commercial ‘soil-less’, pre-mixed growing medium is best. Made up of peat moss which is naturally sterilized, perlite and vermiculite and some nutrients. It is a clean and sterile environment that will help keep you small seedlings healthy.
Fill trays, flats, and pots with potting mix or starting media and level gently.
Place the filled containers in a pan of water overnight so water can soak up.
Perlite improves drainage and vermiculite aids in water retention

4. Seed Starting Containers

5. Planting the seeds
If trays are used make shallow rows about 1-2 inches apart and label each row.
Plant seeds by pressing them gently into the starting media according to the planting depth recommended on the seed pack. I usually sprinkle a little soil over top.

6. Germination
The general rule for seed starting is start seeds warm but grow seedlings cool.
Cover the containers with plastic film, plastic cover or window glass to retain the moisture until the seeds come up.
Do not place covered containers in direct sunlight. Place in warm location (65 to 75 degrees to start the seeds).
Some cool weather crops do well at 55 degrees (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and peas).

7. After Germination
Seeds need to be constantly moist in order to germinate. Water with a fine spray of warm water or from the bottom. Avoid watering with icy cold water.
After germination remove the plastic film or cover and move the cool-loving plants to a cooler location, and warm-loving plants to sunny window or under lights.
Seedlings usually appear 10 days to 2 weeks. Some take up to 3 weeks.
Over the next few weeks inspect the plants for damping off. Avoid overwatering. Keep your potting mix barely moist. Bottom watering helps. Use an anti-fungal agent. Also a fan may be helpful.

8. Damping off
1 tblsp. of hydrogen peroxide per quart of water or brew strong chamomile tea and add an ounce or two per quart of water.
Sterilize your seed starting mix. Minimize wet conditions, and maximize air flow. Add an anti-fungal agent to your water. These steps will go a long way toward preventing the Dreaded Damping Off.

9. Now the light
Lack of light is probably the number one reason people get discouraged as seedlings grown in weak light will stretch, will have weak stems and often a pale colour. They also need hours of light from the moment they germinate. They also need at least 8 hours of darkness to process their food and grow.
Place the seedlings where there is bright light, particularly a bright south-facing window, or use two fluorescent light bulbs (one cool and one warm or grow lights). Generally Growing seedlings on a windowsill is not generally recommended.
Place seedlings 2-4 inches from the tubes for at least 14 to 16 hours per day. Rotate the pots if next to a window.
Adjust the space as the plants become larger.

10. Fluorescent lights

11. Thinning and Feeding
Thinning - After the appearance of true leaves, thin the plants to the desired number per pot or cell by removing weaker plants.
Do not pull them out, cut with small scissors at soil level.
You can transplant seedlings to individual pots or larger containers if you have planted them in flats once the seedlings have 4 true leaves.
To transplant, hold the seedling by its’ leaves, not the delicate stem. With a butter knife, spoon or fork, gently cut around the seedling root and lift up. Place into a pre-moisturized container. Slightly deeper than they were in their flats. Firm soil around the seedlings water immediately.
After transplanting, feed the plants with water-soluble house plant fertilizer at half the recommended rate once a week. After 3 weeks you can start fertilizing at full strength.

12. Transplanting
Veggies that can be easily transplanted are broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, lettuce and tomatoes.
Some vegetables such as cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion and pepper have slower root development and are not easily transferred.
Best to plant each of these seeds separately in the pots they will grow up in.

13. More on transplanting
Most of the warm-loving vegetables such as cucumber, muskmelon, squash and watermelon do not transplant so they too can be seeded directly into larger cells or pots where they grow until planting time.

14. Hardening off
Before transplanting seedlings into the garden it is important to make the plants ready for outdoor conditions.
Harden off the plants two weeks before transplanting.
First move to a shaded area outdoors for a few hours the first few days, then a little longer each day.
Then, move them gradually into sunlight for a short time during the day. Increase the length of exposure with time.
Do not expose seedlings to freezing temperatures or strong winds. Reduce watering and after proper hardening, plant them in the garden.

15. Planting out Try to transplant in late afternoon or a cloudy day.
Make sure they are well watered before transplanting.
I put water in the hole before planting and then water again after planting.
Try not to disturb the root ball.
You can try snail bait around if snails are a problem.
Keep the plants well watered for the 1st week.
Chicken wire around beds wards off the rabbits.
When – after the last danger of frost (full moon in May)
Some seeds can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. (ie Multiplier onions)

16. A brief word on Succession Planting – 4 Ways to Grow More Veggies in Less Space
Same vegetable, staggered plantings.
Space out plantings of the same crop every 2-4 weeks. Many vegetables fade after producing their initial crop.
Plants for this method can be beans, peas, radishes and lettuce.

17. Different Vegetables in Succession
Some crops like peas have short growing seasons and the space they were using can be replanted with a later season crop like eggplant. Also radishes can be followed by either more radishes or another crop.

18. Two vegetables in the same space
Some vegetables can share space amicably. You can plant early crops that will be removed from the garden with late season crops.
Radishes are often planted with carrots (I mix the seeds).
Another example of intercropping is using the shade from tall growing vegetables such as tomatoes, corn or pole beans to shelter lettuce.
I plant radishes in the cucumbers to ward off cucumber beetles.

19. Same vegetable, different maturity rates
An easy way to keep your harvest coming is to choose more than one variety of a crop and make them early, mid and late season varieties.
Look for days to maturity.
Tomatoes, corn and summer squash can be staggered in this way.

20. Resources www.About.com Gardening www.weekendgardener.net
Web.extension.illinois.edu
Farmers Almanac
Seed Starting Guidelines/ Stokes Seeds