1. - costume through the decades
History of Fashion
- costume through the decades

2. Why Fashion?
Fashions move ever forward at a dramatic pace due to several factors:
Change of seasons
Planned obsolescence
Technological advances
Conspicuous consumption …
“a term used to describe the lavish spending on goods and services acquired mainly for the purpose of displaying income or wealth.”

3. 1900-1910 – Edwardian Era British class system was very rigid
However, economic and social changes also created an environment in which there was more social mobility than previously
Changes included rising interest in socialism, attention to the plight of the poor and the status of women
Together with increased economic opportunities as a result of rapid industrialization.
These changes were to be hastened in the aftermath of the first World War.

4. Sport 1908 summer Olympics held in London Sport becoming more popular
More flexible clothing styles were needed
Corset modified

5. Silhouettes – early 1900s Lots of undergarments Voluptuous shape
Low waist

6. Late 1900s
Paul Poiret points the way to a new silhouette, with a high waist and narrow, ankle-length skirts, 1908
Beginnings of the ‘Hobble skirt’
Exotica and travel influenced these changes

7. 1910 – 1920 First half of decade full with riches and opulence
World War 1 had a huge impact on dress in the second half of the decade ( )
Unstable money market
New fabrics and technologies developed
Women began working as there were fewer men at home
Women began to wear trousers or breeches to work on the land or in factories
Fabrics and clothing became more practical based

8. Silhouette - first half of the century
Column-like
Higher waists
Masculine influences beginning to appear

9. Silhouette - second half of the century
Fuller Skirts
Hems rising – ankle visible for the first time!
Hair beginning to be cut short into bobs

10. 1920-1930 Fashion entered the modern era.
The 1920s were characterized by two distinct periods of fashion
The early 1920s were relatively conservative in nature and change progressed slowly as many were reluctant to adopt the new styles
From 1925, the styles that have been associated with the Roaring Twenties were passionately embraced by the public
The public spirit was light-hearted, young and hedonistic but also very forward thinking

11. America America entered a prosperous era Women were allowed to vote
And joined the workforce
Sport was again very important and had a huge influence on clothing

12. Silhouette
The straight-line chemise worn with a close-fitting cloche hat became the uniform for daywear
Boyish and sporty looks were made popular by Jean Patou
Women "bobbed," or cut, their hair short to fit under the popular hats
Low-waist dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women dance the Charleston.

14. (pre-WW2)
The light hearted forward-looking attitude and fashions of the late 1920s lingered through most of 1930
But by the end of 1931 the effects of the Great Depression began to affect the public and a more conservative approach to fashion returned
For women, skirts became longer and the waist-line was returned up to its normal position in an attempt to bring back a more feminine look

15. Technological Advances
This period saw the first widespread use of synthetic fibres
Viscose was used for linings and lingerie
Nylon stockings and plastic zips became widely used
                          

16. Foreign Travel
With the advances in technology and increasing availability of commercial flights foreign travel became more popular
It was now fashionable for the first time to have a sun-tan
New styles influenced by beachwear became popular
The Influence of American film was becoming increasingly important
Along with Health and fitness

17. 1930 – 1940 Silhouette
Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a more structured look for women’s clothing
Shoulder pads and sleeve details very important
By the late '30s, emphasis was moving to the back, with halter necklines and high-necked but backless evening gowns with sleeves

18. 1930 – 1940 Silhouette Skirts remained at mid-calf length for day
Towards the end of the 1930s skirts were reaching just below the knee
This was a practical length and would remain in style for day dresses through the war years.

19. 1940 – 1950: War Time restrictions
Wartime led to restrictions on the amount of new clothing people could buy
Money saving was very important
Dresses became shorter and were made with less fullness to reduce the amount of fabric needed
Make-Do-and-Mend became a national campaign

20. 1940 – 1950: War Time Restrictions
Rations meant that nylon stocking were not available
Women would sometimes paint on stockings instead
Most women wore knee-length skirts with simply-cut blouses and square-shouldered jackets.
Trousers were becoming increasingly popular for workwear, but were still not fully acceptable for leisurewear.

21. Dior’s New Look
When the French fashion houses reopened after World War II, Dior introduced the "New Look" silhouette

22. 1950 – 1960: early years
Early 1950’s was still dominated by Dior’s New Look and very feminine styling with nipped in waists and full skirts
Fashion was nostalgic and looking to the past for inspiration
Balenciaga, Dior and Chanel were all very influential in this period
Women were slowly beginning to wear trousers as an everyday item

23. The American Look American films were again very influential
Stars such as grace Kelly and Marylyn Monroe were widely copied
Off-the-Peg clothing was much more available than ever before and of a higher quality

24. Late 1950’s Rising teenage market with more freedoms than ever before
And with a higher disposable income
Influenced by music
Beginnings of short-lived trends and throw-away society
‘Teddy-Boys’ and ‘Greasers’ first appeared.

25. 1960 – 1970 Early 1960’s women still fairly conservatively dressed
Focus of fashion beginning to change from Paris to London
Fashion starting to be led by people on the street rather than by a few elite Parisian designers

26. 1960’s Culottes very popular in early 1960s Bikini became fashionable
Mini-skirt invented…
But it was not adopted by the general public until the late 1960’s
Carnaby Street in London was the coolest area to shop for fashion conscious teenagers

27. 1960’s Design Influences
Technology once again had a huge impact on fashion
Space travel and man first landing on the moon (1969)
Futuristic films and fashions followed

28. 1970-1980: Early Style Influences
Garment shapes became a lot more fluid and floaty
Started with the Hippy look that originated in the late 1960’s
Jeans were a now a wardrobe staple for both women and men
Tie-dye was popular
Very strong music influence

29. 1970-1990: Early Style Influences
Tunics and Indian styles popular in early 1960s
Skirt lengths varied between Mini, Midi and Maxi
Platform shoes were worn by both men and women

30. Late 1970’s Disco music and styles became popular
Increasing availability of man-made fibres
More colours and shiny fabrics available than ever before.

31. 1980 – 1990
Punk began as an underground movement in the late 1970’s and became an important part of 1980’s fashion
Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood brought the punk look into mainstream fashion

32. 1980 – 1990
The 80’s had an wide mix of fashions and styles influenced by many different factors:
Power Dressing
New Romantic Look
Rap Music
Dynasty and Dallas
MONEY!

33. and now.. Supermaket of style