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Lesson 4.1: Waves *Refer to Chapter 12 in your Textbook
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Learning Goals: Label the anatomy of an ocean wave.
Differentiate between the various types of waves. Describe the steps of a tsunami.
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Anatomy of a Wave: Crest: highest point (top of the wave)
Trough: lowest point (bottom of the wave) Wave Height: measured from crest to trough Wavelength: measured from crest to crest
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Anatomy of a Wave:
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How Water Moves in a Wave
Water particles do not move forward, they move in a circular pattern At a depth about equal to half the wavelength, the motion stops.
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Waves Factors that affect size: Water depth Beach slope Wind speed
Fetch: distance of open water the wind travels over
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Waves Types: Wind generated Earthquake generated Tidal generated
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Types of Wind Waves Capillary Breakers: Swells Surging Spilling
Plunging Swells
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Types of Wind Waves: #1 Capillary
Capillary: small waves, short wavelength, caused by surface tension
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Types of Wind Waves: #2 Breakers
Breakers are medium- large waves that approach the shoreline Wavelength decrease and wave height increases as waves approach the shore Constant Wavelength Waves drag against the bottom and wave length decreases
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Types of Wind Waves: #2 Breakers
As the wave slows, its crest and trough come closer together The bottom of the wave is slowed by friction and moves slower than the top The top of the wave outruns the bottom and falls over. This collapsing wave is called a breaker.
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Types of Breakers: 1. Surging:
Crest remains relatively unbroken, creating low foam Best for skim boarding: riding the foam Can have serious effects during storms
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2. Spilling: The ocean floor has gradual slope, the wave will steepen until the crest becomes unstable White water foam gently “spills” down the face of the wave Best for beginner surfers, swimmers, and boogey boarders
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3. Plunging: The ocean floor is moderately steep or has a sudden depth change, the crest of the wave becomes much steeper, curls over, and drops Creates large crashing sound Can have violent impacts Best for professional surfers ONLY!
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Types of Wind Waves: #3 Swells
Swells: large waves in open ocean, long wavelength, large fetch Type of waves that cause seasickness on boats Measurement: A 10 ft swell rises 5 ft above sea level
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Earthquake Generated Waves
Tsunami: Largest waves, long wavelength, large fetch Can also be caused by landslides, volcanic eruptions, & glaciers Would feel normal in the open ocean NOT a tidal wave!
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