1. Southern Methodist University
The Crinoline Period
Chelsea Bell
Southern Methodist University
MSA 3325
Spring 2013
Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856

2. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Historical Background
England
Queen Victoria exemplified the British ideal of womanhood
Mid-century Britain enjoyed great prosperity
Britain hosted the Great Exhibition of 1851
The Crinoline Period:

3. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Historical Background
France
Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire
France experienced economic growth and Paris was rebuilt
Paris again became the center of European fashion with the help of Charles Frederick Worth
Napoleon III abdicated and fled to Britain in 1870
The Second Empire vanished and was replaced by the Third Republic
The Crinoline Period:

4. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Historical Background
United States
Abraham Lincoln elected President in 1860
Southern states secede and form the Confederacy
North vs. South in the American Civil War
Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863
Lincoln Assassinated in 1865
The Crinoline Period:

5. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Charles Frederick Worth
The Father of Haute Couture
Empress Elisabeth in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars, 1865 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873)
The Empress Eugénie (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873)
The Crinoline Period:

6. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
presently the Fédération française de la couture
Originated in 1868 and is still active today
The governing body of the French fashion industry
Sets the dates and location for French fashion week
Establishes industry standards on clothing
Establishes standards on the use of the word “haute couture”
The Crinoline Period:

7. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Sewing Machine
The Singer Sewing machine hit the market in 1851
The number of sewing machines doubled between 1860 and 1865
Became a vital factor in the development of industry
The Crinoline Period:

8. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume for Women
The Crinoline Period
Fashion Plate, 1853
The Crinoline Period:

9. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume for Women
Cage Crinoline
Steel Cage Crinoline, 1858
The Crinoline Period:

10. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Undergarments
Getting Dressed
Chemise
Drawers
Corset
Crinoline
Corset cover
Petticoat
The Crinoline Period:

11. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume for Women
Daytime dresses
Day dresses, 1861
The Crinoline Period:

12. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume for Women
Evening dresses
Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1860
Portrait of Princesse Albert de Broglie, née Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, 1853
Jean Auguste Dominque Ingres (French, )
The Crinoline Period:

13. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Fashion & Celebrity
The Garibaldi Blouse
Giuseppe Garibaldi
Past patterns #709
The Crinoline Period:

14. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Dress Reform
The “Bloomer” Costume
Consisted of a short skirt over Turkish Trousers
Initially adopted by feminist Elizabeth Smith Miller after a trip to Europe
Named for Amelia Bloomer who adopted the style and wrote about it favorably
Provoked much ridicule
The Crinoline Period:

15. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume for Women
A caricature sequence of posed joke photographs, circa 1860, showing five stages of putting on a crinoline
The Media
A packing dilemma
The hazards of public transportation
The Crinoline Period:

16. The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870
Costume Evolution
The Crinoline Period:

17. The Bustle Period and the Nineties
Chelsea Bell
Southern Methodist University
MSA 3325
Spring 2013

18. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Historical Background
England
France
United States
Victoria had already been queen for over 30 when the bustle arrived as popular fashion
Industrial England was experiencing an economic boom
England experienced a gradual extension of voting rights
The period began with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War
Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussian armies and fled to England
The Second Empire ended and was replaced by the Third Republic
Paris endured a bloody Civil War known as the Commune
The Civil War had ended
The country was united from East to West by railroads
Settlers were rapidly moving westward
Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration were continuing at a rapid pace
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

19. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Evolution of the Bustle
1867
1873
Daytime dress, 1874
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

20. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Evolution of the Bustle
1877
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

21. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Evolution of the Bustle
1885
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

22. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Evolution of the Bustle
A Visual Timeline
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

23. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Undergarments
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

24. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Active Sports & Clothing
Bathing costume, 1874
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

25. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Manufacturing
Textile and Clothing Production
Power looms replaced handlooms
Synthetic dyes became common and were more reliable
Silks were weighted
Cotton fabrics were improved with mercerizing
Women’s ready-to-wear clothing became available in department stores
Mail-order catalogs proved successful for rural shoppers
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

26. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Visual Arts & Costume
Pre-Raphaelite Dress
May Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1872
Jane Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1868
Symphony in White No 1
by James MccNeill Whistler, 1862
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

27. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Visual Arts & Costume
Aesthetic Dress
Oscar Wilde, 1882
Countess Brownlow,
1879
Couple in Aesthetic Dress, 1880s
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

28. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Visual Arts & Costume
Aesthetic Dress
A Private View at the Royal Academy 1881
William Powell Frith
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

29. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Visual Arts & Costume
Art Nouveau
House of Worth, 1898
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

30. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Costume for Women
The 1890s
Fashion Plate, 1892
Evening gowns, 1893
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

31. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Costume for Women
The 1890s
Tailor-mades, 1890s
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

32. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Costume for Women
The 1890s
1890s
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

33. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Costume for Women
The 1890s
Walking Suits, 1894
Bicycle suit, 1890s
The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

34. The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900
Costume for Men
The Bustle Period and the Nineties: