1. Unique Wave Dynamics of Teahupo’o, Tahiti
Why is it special?
Considered “Everest” of surfing, in surfing world in terms of difficulty, up to 40 foot faces
Characterized as a surging wave due to sea-floor topography, but behaves like a plunging wave
Result is a highly unique wave break
Unique Wave Dynamics of Teahupo’o, Tahiti
Max Pike

2. Approx 1:4 (Y:X), feet Approx 1:10 (Y:X), feet Approx 1:40 (Y:X), feet
3-4 wave types (spill, plunge, collapsing (surging/plunging hybrid) surging)
Type depends on steepness
Surging waves in real world (high tide), small
Teahupoo is scaled up 100x
Approx 1:40
(Y:X), feet

3. Tahiti is volcanic hotspot, steep drop off into deep water (greater than 1000 feet after only 1/3 of a mile)
Wave doesn’t “feel” the bottom until ½ mile out
1:3 ratio until 150ft depth, then 1:1
Large, vertical coral reef
1:3 at 20ft depth, erosion
Wave energy forced up, such force that water pulled off of reef/lagoon. Depth dropoff allows wave to break like plunging wave
Wave breaks below sea level

4. No height to back of wave (crest/trough doesn’t exist)
No height to back of wave (crest/trough doesn’t exist). Water hits bottom, has no place to go but up and back (pictures)

5. Normal waves break in water roughly 1
Normal waves break in water roughly 1.7x the wave height, Teahupoo only .5x height
As wave size increases, water depth decreases even more (property of surging wave). Can be as shallow as 6 inches

6. Breaks in reef keep wave “clean”
Water circulation
Breaks about ½ mile offshore
Shape of reef bends wave, focuses energy, “bowl”

7. Citation: www.surfscience.com www.surfline.com www.maps.google.com
Casey, Susan. The Wave. New York: Randm House, 2010.
Peralta, Stacy, dir. Riding Giants. Prod. Laird Hamilton