1. The Starting & Charging System

2. Everything Starts Here!

3. Question
If the alternators and starters are 100% tested at the factory, why do I seem to get so many bad units?
I’m just unlucky
The units were damaged in shipment
The units are cataloged wrong
They don’t test them at the factory
The units are not the problem

4. Answer
The product you receive has nothing to do with luck. The vast majority of problems can be traced to some other member of the electrical team on the vehicle
Although, on occasion, products can be harmed in route and cataloging errors can happen, we take every possible step to ensure the quality of the product we sell.

5. Fact!
Our internal warranty return analysis shows that 55% of “defective” alternators, and 52% of “defective” starters, function perfectly.
Warranty
Returns

6. Fact! Random testing of returned cores show that over 33% test good.
If the core tests good, replacement of the unit did not fix the problem
Most alternator/starter failures (defects) can be traced back to bad connections

7. Diagnosis MUST be systematic!
Always check the battery first!
Check for 12.6 volts at battery
Load test battery
Check belt tension. Is it loose?
Check cables and connections

8. Battery State of Charge
12.6 or higher = 100% charged
12.4 or higher = 75% charged
12.2 or higher = 50% charged
12.0 or higher = 25% charged
Less than 12.0 = DISCHARGED

9. The charging system is much more than just the alternator.
The Team Concept
The charging system is much more than just the alternator.
Alternator
Belt
Battery
Cables
Tensioner

10. Alternator Voltage Drop
Think of “V” as voltage drop.
V = 5 amps x .02 ohms (resistance)
V = .10 voltage drop
V = 50 amps x .02 ohms (resistance)
V = 1.0 voltage drop

11. Alternator Voltage Drop
If we check the alternator when it is producing only 5 amps, the voltage drop will be inconsequential. But, when we load the alternator to 50 amps, the voltage drop is 1 volt.
BIG PROBLEM!

12. Voltage Drop Test Alternators Simple, two minute test
Digital volt meter
Set meter to low volt position (2V)
Start automobile, turn on head lights, A/C, radio, windshield wipers, etc. - we want to load the system
Connect one lead to the battery’s positive post, the other to the alternator’s positive post

13. Voltage Drop Test Alternators
What we are looking for is a reading less than .5 volts
We are not looking at system voltage, but rather voltage difference with this test
Repeat test on ground side, connecting one lead to the negative battery terminal and the other to the case of the alternator
Check both sides of the loaded circuit
Often voltage drop (resistance) is on the ground side
Example: Chevy trucks - ground at water outlet almost always causes problems

14. Voltage Drop Test
Why is this important? If we have a .8 volt drop on the ground side, the alternator is only “seeing” 11.8 volts on a fully-charged 12.6 volt battery.
Alternator goes wide-open to correct drop
Alternator overheats
Alternator fails
Do voltage drop testing before replacing the alternator or starter. A bad connection is usually the cause of the original failure.

15. Voltage Drop Test Starters Digital Voltmeter Battery Starter Ground
Ignition
Switch
Neutral
Safety
Junction
Block

16. Cables Are Critical Always buy the best cables possible
00 cables solve a lot of problems because they are larger than necessary for most systems
Bigger is better!

17. New Terminals Available
New terminals with heat-shrink and solder all in one
Just heat it up. It solders and heat-shrinks in one step
Slick and super strong
Well worth it!

18. Some vehicles have unique and reoccurring problems.
Common Problems
Some vehicles have unique and reoccurring problems.
GM cars/light trucks and alternators
GM cars/light trucks and starters
Ford powerstroke diesel pickups and starters
Ford powerstroke diesels and alternators

19. Dim lights (low voltage) at idle.
Vehicles
Current
Cars/Light Trucks
Problem
Dim lights (low voltage) at idle.
Solution
This is a normal operating characteristic, and no alternator repairs should be made unless a proven fault has been diagnosed.

20. Vehicles Intermittent no crank.
2001 – 2007
Cars/Light Trucks
Problem
Intermittent no crank.
Solution
The condition may result from cross threaded/stripped battery cable bolts in side terminal batteries. Repair the side terminal threads (or replace the battery), and replace the battery cable bolts.

21. Alternator bearing failure.
Vehicles
Problem
Alternator bearing failure.
Solution
Replace belt and tensioner. Over time, tensioner loses tension, belt slips, overheating the bearing, which leads to premature failure. Always check tensioners to see if they are in proper range.

22. Starter kick-back or excessive noise.
Trucks
1995 – 2000 Models
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 7.4L
Problem
Starter kick-back or excessive noise.
Solution
May be a bad crank sensor advancing the timing as much as 50°. Check codes (shows up as a PO 338).

23. Trucks Starter stays engaged.
Powerstroke
Diesel
Problem
Starter stays engaged.
Solution
Replace the ignition switch. Ford has released a technical service bulletin for this common problem.

24. Trucks No charge on alternator.
Powerstroke
Diesel
Problem
No charge on alternator.
Solution
To prevent glow plug burnout, the alternator is not turned on for
50-90 seconds. Make sure regulator has cycled through initial
startup before testing.

25. Summary
Most alternator and starter failures (defects) can be traced back to bad connections.
Check the battery
Check cable connections
Perform a simple voltage drop test
Check the belt tensioner
Check the condition of the belt
Fix the real problem once and move on!

26. Additional Resources BBBIND.COM
Tech tips, service bulletins, installation/troubleshooting guides, etc.
BBBIND.COM