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Motions of the Ocean
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Motions of the Ocean Three basic motions of ocean water: The up and down movement of waves the steady movement of ocean currents The rise and fall of ocean water in tides
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Waves are pulses of energy that move through the ocean.
The main source of energy for waves is wind.
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The height of surface waves depends on three things: Wind speed
Length of time the wind blows distance that wind blows
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Waves The highest point of a wave is called the crest. (C)
The lowest point of a wave is called the trough. (B) The vertical distance between trough and crest is called wave height. (A) The horizontal distance between two consecutive troughs is called wavelength. (D)
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Parts of a wave
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Ocean waves that are caused by earthquakes are called tsunamis.
Tsunamis are the highest ocean waves.
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Currents Ocean waters move beneath the surface, sort of like rivers. These movements are called currents. Currents are caused by: wind patterns Water density
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There are two types of currents:
Surface currents - caused mainly by wind patterns Deep currents - caused mainly by density differences in the ocean
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Upwelling occurs when deep cold currents rise to the ocean surface.
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Tides Tides are the regular rise and fall of ocean water caused by the gravitational attraction among the Earth, moon, and sun.
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Tides Spring tides occur during the new and full moon phases They cause higher than normal high tides. Neap Tides occur during the first and third quarter moon phases. They cause lower than normal high tides.
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