1. INTD 503- Materials Topic: FABRIC- SELECTION
Prepared by: Dr. Mamdouh I. Zaky
University of Nizwa, Sultanate of Oman.

2. Criteria for selecting fabrics
Selection of fabric requires careful attention and knowledge of the following issues:
Green issues
Useful life
Maintenance requirements
Color stability (resistance to fading)
Shrinkage resistance
Resistance to moth damage
Fire resistance
First cost
Useful lifetime cost

3. Green issues
Fabric from natural fibers and some of the animal origin fiber are constantly renewable resources.
Cotton, Linen, wool, goat’s hair, leather, silk etc.
Fiber from endangered animal species will result in possible extinction of wild animals.
Furs, ivory from elephant tusk, leopard and zebra skins etc.
Synthetic fibers require higher energy for production and disposal.

4. Green issues
Some adhesives used with fabrics mostly in wall paneling, carpeting etc can cause problems of off- gassing.
Fabrics used as window coverings can provide some insulation from heat and cold.
Recycling of fabrics is gaining importance.

5. Selecting Colors Color selection can be approached in two ways:
Select and represent approximate colors by using any color medium while developing color scheme and selection of actual fabric is done at a later stage.
This is an extra step and is difficult to match the color in a particular fabric at a later stage.
Make a final fabric selection while developing the color scheme.
Require a large sample collection.

6. Cost Fabrics are available in a vast range of prices.
Initial cost of the fabric does not give the life time cost of the material.
Cost of fabrication, hardware, installation, maintenance over useful life and duration of useful life before replacement are other factors included in total cost.

7. Resistance to fading and fire
Resistance to fading is essential for curtains at a sunny window.
Resistance to fire is essential for public places like restaurants, theaters, airplane interiors etc.
Flammability and dangerous smoke and fumes are serious matters to be considered.
Designers rely on their experience or on the advice of the manufacturer to select appropriate fabric.

8. Resistance to fading and fire
Durability, resistance to fading, resistance to fire can be evaluated through standard tests.
American Society for Testing and materials (ASTM)
American National Standard Institution (ANSI)
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)
Association for Contract Textiles (ACT) developed 5symbols to be used on fabrics that will give their performance information in a visual way.

9. Abrasion: Surface wear of a fabric caused by rubbing and contact with another fabric.
Wyzenbeek test and Martindale test are the two methods commonly used to predict durability.
Fiber content, weaves, finishes, maintenance, cleaning and usage are factors considered for testing.
Fabrics rated as Heavy duty installation at 30,000 double rubs are appropriate for hotel rooms, conference rooms and dining rooms.
Fabric rated higher than 30,000 double rubs are used in 24 hour working places like transport terminals, healthcare emergency, theatres, stadiums etc.

10. Colorfastness to Light: material’s degree of resistance to the fading effect of light.
Fading is tested with a device called fadometer.
A strip of fabric (part of it is protected by paper card) is placed in fadometer and exposed for 40hours.
The difference in color between the exposed and protected area are compared to produce the degree of fading rating.
Grade 5- no fading
Grade 4- slight fading
Grade 1- high degree of fading

11. Flammability: measurement of a fabric’s performance when it is exposed to specific sources of ignition.
Common tests used to measure flammability:
Vertical flame test- ease of ignition and burning rate
Tunnel test- flame spread and smoke developed
NFPA small scale test – ignition resistance.

12. Physical Properties: test include brush pill, breaking strength and seam slippage.
Pilling is the formation of fuzzy balls of fiber on the surface of the fabric that remain attached to the fabric. (ASTM D3511)
Breaking strength is the measurement of stress exerted to pull fabric apart under tension. (Grab test)
Seam Slippage is the movement of yarns in a fabric that occurs when it is pulled apart a seam. (ASTM D3597-D434)

13. Wet & Dry crocking: transfer of dye from the surface of a dyed or printed fabric onto another surface by rubbing.
AATCC 8 & AATCC 116 (for printed fabrics) are the two test methods adopted .
Grade 5 - no color transfer
Grade 1 - high degree of color transfer

14. Resistance to moth damage
Mothproofing is a chemical treatment given to fabrics that protects them from insects without leaving any odor.
A label stating "mothproof" or "moth resistant" means that the item has been treated during manufacturing. This process is considered permanent.
Modacrylic is a synthetic copolymer fabric resistant to moth attack and is non allergic.

15. Natural plant fiber used for centuries
Properties
Wool
Natural fiber from sheep, highly crimped
Excellent hand, high resiliency, attacked by moths, fair abrasion resistance, poor sunlight resistance, burns slowly, self-extinguishes in flames, requires dry cleaning
Cotton
Natural plant fiber used for centuries
Excellent absorbency, resistant to moths, dyes well, wrinkles easily, moderate abrasion resistance, moderate sunlight resistance, extremely flammable unless treated, easy to care for
Rayon
Manufactured fiber made from wood chips
Inexpensive, good hand, may shrink or stretch when wet, poor abrasion resistance, moderate sunlight resistance, resistant to moths and mildew, extremely flammable unless treated with a flame retardant finish, requires dry cleaning
Nylon
First synthetic fiber, produced in 1928
Resilient, excellent abrasion resistance, poor sunlight resistance, burns slowly with melting, easy care and maintenance

16. Synthetic fiber favored in blends to add dimensional stability
Properties
Polyester
Synthetic fiber favored in blends to add dimensional stability
Excellent resilience, resistant to insects and mildew, good abrasion resistance, good sunlight resistance, burns slowly with melting, resists waterborne stains
Acrylic
Synthetic fiber famous for wool-like feel
Moderate resiliency, attractive hand, moderate abrasion resistance, excellent sunlight resistance, burns with melting, easy care
Olefin
One of the more recently developed synthetic fibers
Inexpensive, extremely heat sensitive, resistant to chemicals and insects, excellent abrasion resistance, poor sunlight resistance, burns with melting, resists waterborne stains
Leather
Processed hides and skins from animals
Excellent hand, durable, varies in quality, requires special care in cleaning,self-extinguishes in flames