1. LESSON – 12 DRAFTING METHOD OF SHIRT BLOCK
FOR ABNORMAL FIGURES

2. INTRODUCTION
Human body - have different abnormalities – e.g. corpulent, stooping (forward-stance), erect, (backward stance ),
square shoulder, prominent hips etc.
While cutting shirt for abnormal figure, points keep on mind – must modify – otherwise fitting problems created – different figures need different modifications

3. CORPULENT FIGURE - waist round is more than chest - back pushes inside
Salient features of a corpulent figure :
- waist round is more than chest
- back pushes inside
- heavy body
( the SCALE is necessary for this figure- scale = 1/3 chest + 15 cm )

4. CONSTRUCTION LINES FOR CORPULENT FIGURE SHIRT
Measurements :
length – 76 cm, chest – 114 cm
shoulder cm , waist length- 46 cm
sleeve length –62 cm, cuff – 25 – 6 cm
abdomen round – 120 cm neck – 40 cm
abdomen point - 52 cm scale – 53 cm
abdomen difference -6 cm ,

5. CONSTRUCTION LINES FRONT : 0-1= length + 4cm + 6-7 = 1/12 scale
0-2 = waist length
0-3 = abdomen point
0-4 = ½ scale – 1.5 cm
0-5 = 1 ¾ for button stand
0-6 = ½ shoulder +1 cm
6-7 = 1/12 scale
0-8 = 1/6 neck
0-9 = 1/6 neck
4-10 = ¼ chest + 5 cm
2-11 = ¼ chest + 4 cm
3-12 = ¼chest +5+½ 0f abdomen difference
5 – 13 = 4 cm for placket facing

6. CONSTRUCTION LINES BACK : 7 – 14 = 1 cm
Join this point to centre back line on fold
On hem, at side seam, decrease 1 cm
BACK YOKE :
0-1 = 1/8 chest cm
0-2 = ½ shoulder + 1cm
1-3 = 0-2
0-4 = 1/6 neck + ¾ cm
0-5 = 1/6 neck
2-6 = 1/12 scale

7. CONSTRUCTION LINES SLEEVE : ( half ) 0-1 = sleeve length
0-2 = 1/4 scale
0-3 = ½ scale
1-4 = 4 cm for turning
4-5 = 0-3
5-6 = 2 cm
COLLAR :
0-1 = 8 cm
1-2 & 0-3 = ½ neck
1-4 = 1.5 cm
4-5 = 4.2 cm
5-6 & 4-7 = 1-2
6-8 = 1.5 cm

8. CONSTRUCTION LINES STAND : 0-1 = 4.7 cm 0-2 & 1-3 = ½ neck
A & B is the midpoint of 1-3 & 0-2
5-8 = 2 cm
8-9 = 0.5 cm
PATCH POCKET :
0-1 = 1/6 chest + 1.5
0-2 = 1/6 chest
1-3 = 0-2