1. Effect of Knitting Variables on Reference Dimensions
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2. Reference Dimensions The dimensions of a fabric, i.e.
Courses per unit length
Wales per unit width
Weight per unit area
measured after laundering using the
STARFISH Reference Relaxation procedure
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3. Reference Dimensions Are determined by the key knitting variables
Yarn Quality (type, count, twist)
Average Stitch Length
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4. Yarn Quality Variables
that affect the Reference Dimensions are
Average Yarn Count
Yarn Type
Twist Multiple
Fibre Quality
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5. Effect of Count on Loop Size
Finer Yarn
Heavier Yarn
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6. Effect of Yarn Count on Stitch Density10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Courses or Wales / cm
Relaxed Plain Jersey, dyed & finished
Courses
Ne 18
Ne 28
Ne 38
Wales
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
3.4
3.6
3.8
4.0
4.2
Loop Length mm
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7. Effect of Yarn Count At the same Stitch Length Finer Yarn:
Fewer Courses
More Wales
Lighter Weight
Coarser Yarn:
More Courses
Fewer Wales
Heavier Weight
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8. Effect of Yarn Type: OE Rotor vs Ring
Plain Jersey, Ne 1/30 65 60 55
Courses
Ring spun
Courses or Wales / 3cm 50
Rotor spun 45 40 35
Wales
0.28
0.30
0.32
0.34
0.36
Loop Length, cm
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9. Ring Spun vs OE Rotor Spun
At the same Yarn Count & Stitch Length
Ring Spun yarn:
Fewer Courses
More Wales
Rotor Spun yarn:
More Courses
Fewer Wales
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10. Effect of Yarn Type: Singles vs Folded
Single Jersey Grey Reference 65
1/30 Ne
2/60 Ne
Courses 55
Stitches per 3 cm 45
Wales 35
0.27
0.29
0.31
0.33
0.35
0.37
Loop Length cm
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11. Singles vs Folded Yarn At the same Yarn Count & Stitch Length
Singles Yarn
More Courses
More Wales
Heavier Weight
Folded Yarn
Fewer Courses
Fewer Wales
Lighter Weight
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12. Yarn Twist Multiple Influenced by basic fibre quality
fibre preparation
method of spinning
efficiency of spinning
properties required
end use
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13. Yarn Twist Multiple Influences basic Yarn Properties strength bulk
hairiness
stiffness
abrasion resistance
but also affects Yarn Twist Liveliness
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14. Twist Liveliness For yarns of similar quality
Twist Liveliness is related to the
Number of Turns per unit length
More turns - more twist lively
Fewer turns - less twist lively
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15. High Twist Liveliness Causes
SPIRALITY in Single Jersey fabrics
twisting in garments
Higher Density of Courses & Wales
in all fabrics
Greater SHRINKAGE
up to about 3 percentage points
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16. Effect of Yarn Twist on Courses
Interlock Ne 1/30 Bleached 52
TM 3.8 48
TM 3.4
TM 3.0
Relaxed Courses / 3cm 44 40 36
0.32
0.34
0.36
0.38
0.40
Loop Length, cm
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17. Effect of Yarn Twist on Wales
Interlock Ne 1/30 Bleached 45
TM 3.8 43
TM 3.4
TM 3.0
Relaxed Wales / 3cm 41 39 37
0.32
0.34
0.36
0.38
0.40
Loop Length cm
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18. Cotton Fibre Quality Fibre Quality determines Yarn Strength
Yarn Regularity
Amount of Twist
Dyeing properties
but also affects Reference Dimensions
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19. Effect of Cotton Type
Two matched sets of 27 different Interlock qualities
averaged over Twist Multiple & Stitch Length
Courses
Wales
Ne 22
Texas
California
12.82
12.59
10.42
10.62
Ne 26
14.09
13.69
15.03
14.88
11.44
11.59
12.20
12.48
Ne 30
Mean Fibre Effect %
+1.9
-1.8
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20. Effect of Cotton Fibre Micronaire Value
Interlock: Ne 1/30, three twist levels
Courses or Wales per cm 16 15 14 13 12 11 10
Seven different cottons
Courses
Wales
Micronaire Value
2.4
2.8
3.2
3.6
4.0
4.4
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21. Stitch (Loop) Length
The KEY Dimensional control parameter is the average LENGTH of yarn in the KNITTED LOOP
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22. Stitch (Loop) Length
Shorter
Longer
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23. Courses & Wales vs 1 / Loop Length
Relaxed Plain Jersey, Ne 18 to Ne 50 9 12 15 18 21 24 27
Courses or Wales / cm
Courses
Wales
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
4.0
4.5
5.0
Reciprocal Loop Length 1/L
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24. Stitch (Loop) Length For a given Yarn Count Shorter Stitch
More Courses
More Wales
Heavier Weight
Longer Stitch
Fewer Courses
Fewer Wales
Lighter Weight
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25. Crosstuck (piqué) Fabrics
Single
Double
Six-thread
knit
tuck
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26. Run-in Ratio (piqué fabrics)
For Crosstuck fabrics with an all-knit course
Knit & Tuck Course Length
All-Knit Course Length
Run-in Ratio =
Run-in Ratio greater than 1.0
K&T longer than All-Knit
Run-in Ratio less than 1.0
K&T shorter than All-Knit
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27. Run-in Ratio (piqué fabrics)
Affects fabric appearance
Affects Reference Dimensions because stitch length is different between courses
Affects Reference Weight because total yarn length per unit area is different
Size of the effect depends on Construction
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28. Single Crosstuck (piqué)
Compared to Run-in Ratio = 1.0
Increasing K&T Stitch Length
decreases Courses & Wales
decreases Weight
Decreasing K&T Stitch Length
increases Courses & Wales
increases Weight
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29. Six-thread Crosstuck (piqué)
Compared to Run-in Ratio = 1.0
Increasing K&T Stitch Length
decreases Courses & Wales
increases Weight
Decreasing K&T Stitch Length
increases Courses & Wales
decreases Weight
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30. It Follows That … For Crosstuck fabrics with an all-knit course
both the All-Knit stitch length, and the Knit & Tuck stitch length must be …
Correctly specified
Accurately measured
Effectively controlled
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31. Two-thread Fleece Compared to Plain Jersey …
the presence of an Inlay (backing) yarn causes
Reduced Course Density
Reduced Wale Density
Increased Weight
Wales are affected more than Courses
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32. Two Thread Fleece: 24 Ne Series
Finished, Reference State
Psj
Courses or Wales / cm 17 16 15 14 13 12 11
Inlay =
20 Ne
16 Ne
14 Ne
12 Ne
Courses
Psj
Wales
Reciprocal Loop Length 1/L
2.6
2.7
2.8
2.9
3.0
3.1
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33. Compared to Plain Jersey
Two-thread Fleece
Compared to Plain Jersey
The heavier the Inlay yarn count, the greater is the reduction in stitch density
The greater the difference between Face and Inlay yarn counts, the greater is the difference between Plain Jersey and Two-Thread Fleece
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34. Two-thread Fleece For a given combination of Face & Inlay
Fabric Weight is influenced mainly by the Stitch Length of the Inlay yarn
Fabric Dimensions are influenced mainly by the Stitch Length of the Face yarn
Correct specification, accurate measurement
and effective control of both stitch lengths is essential
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35. Knitting Machine Variables
Machine Gauge & Diameter
Do not affect the Reference Dimensions provided that the knitted Yarn Count and Stitch Length are the same
Number of Needles
Determines the Reference Width Width = Needles / Wales
Knitting specification must always include
Number of Needles not just Gauge & Diameter
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36. STARFISH Workshop